R2A and Slide Film?

[mtbbrian]

I have yet to shoot any slide film with my r2A.
So I am wondering if I should shoot normally or should I compensate one way or another on the exposure.
What experiences have you had with slide film and shooting with an R2A?
Thanks!
Brian

 

[ClaremontPhoto]

I woud have thought that you could make pictures normally with any adjustment for light or dark scenes.

Maybe you would be happier with bracketing if that's appropriate-

 

[mtbbrian]

I woud have thought that you could make pictures normally with any adjustment for light or dark scenes.

Maybe you would be happier with bracketing if that's appropriate-

That's what I was thinking, I was just hoping that someone had some experience with it.
Thanks for responding.
Brian

 

[kully]

Hallo Brian,

I'd never used slides before I got my R2a.

I did have problems with a CV 21/4, but that was down to large amounts of sky being included and throwing the metering off.

I have some rolls back from a trip over new years - Sensia II 100, R2a + 40/1.4 and plain old AE - they're all fine on my lightbox.

 

[clintock]

I use an R3a with slide film often, and it does great. Just keep in mind the usual slide stuff, the meter pattern, err towards under instead of over..
Also if you ever turn the compensator dial, don't do what I did and put the iso window where the zero pointer was supposed to be-thinking it's back on zero- I smoked half a roll of kodachrome..
I'm in the habit of pointing down till there's little or no sky in view, pushing the exposure lock button then shooting.
Someday i'd love to see if I could hack the wiring in the bessa to have the exposure lock button turn the meter on, and the partial depress of the shutter be the exposure lock.. Like old 'needle capture' fixed lens auto cameras like the oly 35-RC.

 

[mtbbrian]

I use an R3a with slide film often, and it does great. Just keep in mind the usual slide stuff, the meter pattern, err towards under instead of over..
Also if you ever turn the compensator dial, don't do what I did and put the iso window where the zero pointer was supposed to be-thinking it's back on zero- I smoked half a roll of kodachrome..
I'm in the habit of pointing down till there's little or no sky in view, pushing the exposure lock button then shooting.
Someday i'd love to see if I could hack the wiring in the bessa to have the exposure lock button turn the meter on, and the partial depress of the shutter be the exposure lock.. Like old 'needle capture' fixed lens auto cameras like the oly 35-RC.

Those are good points.
Thanks!!
Brian

 

[Avotius]

I ran a roll of sensia 400 and provia 100 through my r2a and it seemed to do ok but the place that developed the film messed it up and all my slides came out strange. Seems though you shouldnt have any problems setting it on 0 or +.5 and shooting.

 

[Seele]

Brian,

It seems to me more of a general question regarding the use of slide films.

First of all you have to establish the whole system, including your camera, your exposure meter, your shutter and aperture accuracy, your film, and your lab can give you the result you need. That is the reason why professionals buy "professional" films in multiple of "bricks", shoot the first roll and get it processed, so as to know if certain adjustments have to be made,

For instance, before doing the proper shoot, buy ten rolls of the same film, and shoot one roll and get it processed normally. If the whole roll appears to be over-exposed, then you know that in this complete system, the factor you can control would be to cut exposure appropriately. The same goes for colour shift, etc.

 

[RF-Addict]

Seele is right - you need to test the R2A with the film you want to use AND the various lenses you own. I shoot slides all the time (I typically will scan them later on) and with my R2A I noticed that it tends to under expose by about 1/3 stop with the 50 Nokton. When using the 15 Heliar I need one full stop more than the meter tells me. I just got the CV 21 and it seems to exhibit the same pattern as the 15 Heliar.

It really is easy to test - just load film and bracket for every lens you use, develop and compare the shots on a light table. If you plan on scanning the slides, then you should make them look slightly thinner than you would for projection. "Fat" slides don't scan very well.