R2A or R3A??

[NotNotz]

Hi,

Have finally decided to take the plunge for my first RFF, but can't decide between the 2. I have a preference for R3A, but the only thing that's leaning me towards the R2A is because of my thick glasses (quite myopic) and I'm worried that not seeing the full 40mm frame on the R3A could be a problem.

A friend told me that framing on RRs are more of an approximation thingy, and that not seeing the full 40mm is not a big problem.

Thought I'd like to hear more advices before I take the plunge...

Thanks!

 

[ferider]

Go for the R2*. Its 35mm framelines are practically 40mm framelines,
from 3m onwards. Less issues with RF misalignment, too.

Roland.

 

[BrianPhotog]

bessas have parallax compensation, so framing with them (using in-built framelines) is precise down do maybe 3ft or so. 🙂

 

[ferider]

I forgot to add: Welcome NotNotz.

There are two sources for framing inaccuracy with RFs:
- parallax: compared to your viewfinder, the center of your object shifts as you focus closer. This is completly compensated with the Bessa framelines that shift together with the focus.
- frameline size: as you focus closer, your focal length gets longer, and the field of view angle smaller. The framelines are usually calibrated for a certain minimum distance (3ft with the Bessas ?), and when you focus further away, you fit more than what you see into the negative. Worst case is that you have to crop later. What I mentioned above is that you will be safe with 40mm on an R2* from 3m onwards. If you focus closer you will have to give yourself a little space when framing. No problem at all. And with the R2* you have enough room around the 35mm lines to see them with glasses.

Best,

Roland.

 

[aizan]

r2a, since you wear glasses.

 

[NotNotz]

Hi Ferider,

Thanks for the advice... got some questions though...

So your recommendation would be to go for a R2A and 40mm nokton? Also, if I'm focusing closer (<3m), the R2A viewfinder will show less than what's going to be on the negative?

Looks like most of the advice here is leaning towards the R2A... 😛

 

[Keith]

Go for the R2*. Its 35mm framelines are practically 40mm framelines,
from 3m onwards. Less issues with RF misalignment, too.

Roland.

Hi Roland,

This is an opportune thread because I had the same question on my mind. What I don't understand though is why you think the R2A is the better choice for RFF accuracy alignment over the 3A? I thought the 3A with it's slightly longer RF effective baselength would be superior ... or are there other problems I'm not aware of?

 

[BrianPhotog]

Hi Roland,

This is an opportune thread because I had the same question on my mind. What I don't understand though is why you think the R2A is the better choice for RFF accuracy alignment over the 3A? I thought the 3A with it's slightly longer RF effective baselength would be superior ... or are there other problems I'm not aware of?

by "rf misalignment" he's not reffering to the accuracy, but the issues reported with the verical and infinity alignment being out of sych out of the box or after some bumping around. 🙂

 

[glynjones]

I've found the 40mm framelines on the R3A useless. I definitely can't see them with my glasses on, and even without your eye has to be positioned perfectly to see it properly

Having said that the R3A is fantastic to use with 50 and 75mm

My solution was therefore to also get an R4A which does 35mm nicely and also gives you framelines for wider angles

For my money then - best solution - R3* and R4*
If only buying one camera then probably R2*

Hope this helps
Let us know what you go for in the end

Glyn

 

[ferider]

by "rf misalignment" he's not reffering to the accuracy, but the issues reported with the verical and infinity alignment being out of sych out of the box or after some bumping around. 🙂

Like Brian said, Keith. I had an olive R2 and grey R3a. It took me quite
a while and some nail polish to fix the R3a RF alignment. Not as simple
as it is made out to be in some of the posts that you find on the issue ...
The first fix is easy, but then you close the camera and the next day
it's off again - due to drift. The R3a RF mechanics are identical to the
RD1 and there are a bunch of threads on that camera, too .... so I
think it's a systematic problem.

Never had a single problem with the R2 which was quite robust. The R2
RF is built differently and has less EBL, obviously.

Roland.

 

[ferider]

Hi Ferider,

Thanks for the advice... got some questions though...

So your recommendation would be to go for a R2A and 40mm nokton? Also, if I'm focusing closer (<3m), the R2A viewfinder will show less than what's going to be on the negative?

Yes, and yes. The Nokton is an outstanding lens (I have two). < 3m you
get a little less on the negative than what you saw in the framelines
(maybe 5-10% or so), but you get used to it. If you shoot slides, the
difference is a bit larger since you get less of the film area. If you
want to be conservative when framing, say at .7m, you can always switch
to the 50mm lines on the Bessa.

Note that the actual focal length of the Nokton is 42mm. With another
40mm lens (like the C-Summicron or Rokkor which are both exactly 40mm),
the difference between negative and frameline might be even less.
You get used to it very quickly. Many of us use 40mm with 35mm framelines ...

I do agree with Glynn though. The R3* is the perfect 75mm machine.

Best,

Roland.

 

[oscroft]

For my money then - best solution - R3* and R4*
If only buying one camera then probably R2*

I couldn't agree more - I've got an R4A and I'm in the process of buying an R3A. The R4 is brilliant with wides (and has a CV 21 almost permanently on it), and I want the R3 for use with 50 and 75 - I have an M6 too, but the 75 frame is just too small. If I was to only have one, I'd choose my M6 or an R2A.

 

[NotNotz]

Thanks for all the replies!

After reading through all the posts and processing, I've decided to go for R2A + 40mm Nokton...

Thanks a mil again!

 

[Assaf]

I'm wearing glasses and couldn't see all the 40mm framelines on an R3A in one look. Than being said, I think that framing 35mm with this camera would be no more than an educated guess to me. My friend owning this camera (and wearing not so thick glasses) has the same problem.

The RF system should be the same for both R2 R3 cameras. As I understand from cameraquest site, both are basically the same cameras except for the VF magnification. However, a larger magnification can help in focusing.

 

[pizzahut88]

I would pick the R2a

I would pick the R2a

If you look real hard inside the finder of R2a,
that's about 28mm.

For most, the 28mm is most used than the 90mm.

 

[Thardy]

If you look real hard inside the finder of R2a,
that's about 28mm.

For most, the 28mm is most used than the 90mm.

The most lateral lines are 35mm, but the whole VF would be 28mm?