R3 Monobath Developer

[Gregoyle]

R3 Monobath Developer

This seems extremely convenient. What do you guys think? Has anyone tried it?

-Greg

 

[Larry Cloetta]

Seems a little dodgy to me. Weren't these the same guys who invented the Bass-O-Matic?

 

[George Bonanno]

I just ordered... I’ll keep you all posted as to when delivered and how it works.

I’ve been using the monobath method (FX-6a) for a few years now with excellent results.

However, keep in mind the almighty “cool breeze” Roger Hicks disagrees on all counts because, well you know, he knows better than anyone else on the planet.

 

[Gregoyle]

George,

I had never heard of using monobath prior to this; can you tell us a little about ho it works, and what kind of results you get?

-Greg

 

[George Bonanno]

OK, so here’s the phat and skinny on monobath. Basically it’s a simple formula where the developer and fixer is compounded in one mixture. Ya pour the stuff into a tank. Then shake, rattle and roll and out come negatives. The time and temperature within reason is of little concern since it’s basically a race between the developer and fixer. Anyone with basic darkroom or scanning skills will get good results for print and or screen.

Here’s a basic formula for morons:

16 ml HC-110
50 ml household ammonia
10 ml Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate
water to make 256 ml

Process at room temperature for 6 - 7 minutes with normal agitation.

Here’s a formula (FX-6a) for normal people:

Start with about 650 ml of water.
phenidone 1 gram
sodium sulfite 50 g
sodium thiosulfate 70 - 125 g
sodium hydroxide 10 g
hydoquinone 12 g (mix this with about 50ml of water)

The order you mix is very important. The wrong order produces a muddy sludge that does not work.

Mix like this: Put in phenidone, do not mix.
Add a pinch of the hydoquinone.
Add the remaining ingredients except the hydoquinone.
Mix well until everything is dissolved.
Finally add the hydoquinone and mix again.
Fill to make 1 liter.

Add more hypo for lower contrast, less hypo for more contrast. Use 100 g, which is about mid way.
I use 120 g as that works best for me.

Develop most films about 6 - 8 minutes at 75 degrees.

If all goes right you'll be amazed at the results.

I’m not going to post a bunch of results but here’s a typical example...

 

[Gregoyle]

Thanks! While spending all the time mixing chemicals might defeat the purpose for me, a premixed version might be interesting to try!

-Greg

 

[Bille]

Thanks! While spending all the time mixing chemicals might defeat the purpose for me

This (http://new55project.blogspot.de/2010/01/donal-qualls-successful-monobath.html) sounds pretty straightforward

16 ml HC-110 USA concentrate
50 ml household ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, probably 5% solution)
10 ml Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate
water to make 256 ml

 

[SuperUJ]

Anyone tried the new R5 version of the Monobath

Anyone tried the new R5 version of the Monobath

Just wondered if anyone on RFF has tried the R5. Any thoughts on it?

Thanks,

John

 

[Eugen Mezei]

Anyone with basic darkroom or scanning skills will get good results for print and or screen.

Allow me to translate this.
You get a not so ideal (=sh**ty) negative that you try to save by postprocessing.
Monobaths were invented when glass plates were the norm. It has a reason why it never got widely used. Now some smart guys market it as the philosopher's stone. An overpriced stone it is.

 

[kknox]

It works great, but only if yiu agitate. You will get horrible results if yiu dont. I develop 7min at 80 degrees with slight aggitation every 30 seconds.

 

[znapper]

I tried Acros in the "moron" recipe with excellent results, the resulting shots, data and also a link to a youtube review of R3 can be found here: http://helino-photo.blogspot.no/2015/05/monobath-processing.html