R3A vs R3M build quality

Bosk

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I've read that the R3M/R2M cameras have superior build quality and slightly quieter shutters than the R3A/R2A cameras, is this true or is it an urban legend of sorts?
 
Not sure about build quality (I've got no complaints about the build quality of my R3M or R4M). But the M shutters are indeed supposed to be a bit quieter than the A shutters. The Head Bartender asserts so on his site, and he'd be apt to know.

I've not used an A shutter, but the M shutters are not especially noisy to my ear. It's a different sound perhaps than an M3 or an M4, but not too much louder.
 
shutters are the same construction (vertically traveled metallic curtains).
overall noise consist of many factors, one of them - slapping the curtains - is the same, regardless of mechanical or electromagnetic shutter actuation.
Cloth shutter curtains (Leica, Olympus OM) usually quieter, but actuation mechanism is source of noise too.
btw, there is a special case, when M3 shutter is louder then RxA... guess 🙂

about build quality - Bessa have poorly designed film rewind handle. It is made of plastic and can fall apart, if too much force applied. Careful with it
p.s. I maybe wrong and handle is metal, but it feels too thin and fragile
 
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The Bessa's are nice, and I do think that for the most part they are pretty solid cameras, but I do agree the rewind mechanism seems very weak. The shutter is pretty clanky sounding, louder than a Leica, and but quieter than an SLR.
 
Cosina build cameras in batches and will possibly do 500 of R3A early in the week, then 350 of R4M later, and finish off on Friday with 200 of R2A. How can the build quality possibly differ?
 
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I've read that the R3M/R2M cameras have superior build quality and slightly quieter shutters than the R3A/R2A cameras, is this true or is it an urban legend of sorts?
urban legend, the only difference is the finder 1:1 and 0,72 😉

the shutter on the A and M are different, according to cameraquest, M is a bit quieter
 
The build quality of all 6 of the current in production Voigtlander Bessa cameras (R2A/R2M/R3A/R3M/R4A/R4M) is IDENTICAL.

All have metal outer coverings on a metal diecast body shell. Likewise all have very bright rangefinder/viewfinders. The mechanical M shutter are slightly quieter than the electronic shutters, but not remarkedly so.

People have a tendency to group all Bessa comments together, often without being aware the earlier Bessa R, T, and R2 bodies were less refined. The earlier cameras do have louder shutters than the current Bessas, and they also have weaker rewind levers.

Stephen
 
I don't own either of these but have used them briefly side by side, and I thought the r*A shutters were louder than the r*M, and that the r*M's were very similar to the Zeiss Ikon's - not sure how they manage this as they are all made in the same place, why the r*A shutters are louder than the ZI's, given both are AE, or even if AE has anything to do with it. Maybe the r*M shutters are a newer design, given these came on the market right around the same time as the ZI did IIRC, and r*A's are still using the earlier generation shutter?
 
well my R is wonderful. so when I buy a R3a or m im glad to know its built better. As far a rewind crank let me say this. first roll of film I shot with mine was a 36 exposure roll. it got stuck dont know why never happened again. but i put as much force on the rewind lever as I could, and I bench 390, to get it unstuck so i didnt loose shots, the film broke in half. The lever is still functioning as designed, so if you got one with a broke lever i would say bad luck not design flaw.
 
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I don't own either of these but have used them briefly side by side, and I thought the r*A shutters were louder than the r*M, and that the r*M's were very similar to the Zeiss Ikon's - not sure how they manage this as they are all made in the same place, why the r*A shutters are louder than the ZI's, given both are AE, or even if AE has anything to do with it. Maybe the r*M shutters are a newer design, given these came on the market right around the same time as the ZI did IIRC, and r*A's are still using the earlier generation shutter?
R A and ZI shutter are exactly the same, but the body are different, that can explain the noise reduced on the ZI 😱
 
While I do not have experience with both (only R3A) I've heard the opposite - that R3M shutters are slightly louder, because R3A has electronically controlled shutters. That's just what I've heard.
But yes, Bessa shutters are quite loud (certainly louder than Hexar AF, hehe).
 
I had an R3M, and now I have an R4A, both recent vintage. They are equally well built--not as nice as the M2, but nicer than my Pentax ME Super. Shutters sounded about the same volume to me.
 
The build quality of all 6 of the current in production Voigtlander Bessa cameras (R2A/R2M/R3A/R3M/R4A/R4M) is IDENTICAL.

All have metal outer coverings on a metal diecast body shell. Likewise all have very bright rangefinder/viewfinders. The mechanical M shutter are slightly quieter than the electronic shutters, but not remarkedly so.

People have a tendency to group all Bessa comments together, often without being aware the earlier Bessa R, T, and R2 bodies were less refined. The earlier cameras do have louder shutters than the current Bessas, and they also have weaker rewind levers.

Stephen

Thanks very much for answering my question Stephen, much obliged to you. 🙂
 
Today I bought a brand new R3M.

Why?

My M4-P's screen flares, its small and dingy compared to the R3M's lovely viewfinder and it feels awkward in my hand - like trying to take photos with a sardine can. Not to mention its removable bottom plate!

Why I did not buy a bessa in first place is one of those questions I'll never be able to answer... :bang:
 
Build quality is better than some people want to think.

I took my R3A hiking last week. I don't know why; I have the Bessa T specifically for that purpose. Since I took it, of course it fell, onto a rock no less, with a loud metallic thud. Heartbreaking! Other cameras probably would have split wide open. Not the Bessa. The back door was slightly warped, the film advance wasn't working, and there was a mean gouge in the body. Luckily the shutter (and the lens) was unscathed. A repair genius here in Taiwan who handles Bessas fixed it all for me, including an exterior touch-up, in two days at a cost of US$66.
 
taiwan handwork must be cheaper than old europe techs. If it was broken, i wouldn't say it is such a solid camera.
 
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