Rangefinder collar removal.

[POSTI-Tuomo]

So I got into disassembling my Zorki 1 and everything went well until I realized I don't have a proper tool to remove this RF collar that keeps me from removing the top plate in order to strip the parts on top of the camera. I tried some pliers with some rubber between the jaws to prevent deformation, no luck there... Do I have to get a lens spanner or can this collar be removed in some other way? Oh and by the way, do you have to rotate this collar clockwise or counterclockwise?

The collar:

 

[Xmas]

It should not be tight.

My Zorki 2 outer collar comes off with the optic and other parts as well (i.e. yours) counter-clockwise, so I have a different problem. It wont adjust... I'll check this and post Monday.

There are instructions for leicias somwhere on web...

A motor car (USA Automobile) parts factor may have circlip pliers, where the pins are small enough to fit. Circlips are frequently terminated with a pair of pin holes. Or a rubber screw driver, a rubber bung with a hole for sealing a wine making vessel, but allowing it to bubble CO2..., may go over optic but allow a sufficient friction grip on face of outer ring.

Dont break anything & Good luck

Noel

 

[Screwy]

It's usually kept in place with shellac , I loosened mine up with lighter fluid to dissolve it . Just remember that,s the rangefinder vertical adjustment so you will have to reset it on assembly .


Paul

 

[POSTI-Tuomo]

It is really tight, but maybe I'll be able to twist it with just my fingers using two pieces from some rubber gloves for some friction... :bang:

 

[Xmas]

Paul

I'll drop my frozen assembly in lighter fluid, thanks.

Noel

 

[POSTI-Tuomo]

The collar just wouldn't get loosened up, with neither the rubber gripping technique nor the lighter fluid approach... I'll go to the hardware store in Monday and get a pair of circlip pliers, that ought to do it! Not too many camera stores here dealing in camera servicing tools....

 

[Sonnar Brian]

My spanner would not "get Small" enough for the collar. My regular needle nosed pliers that I use were not strong enough. I just used a set of pliers used to squeeze (compress) retaining rings to get it off. I filed down the nubs on the end. You could also get a paur of thicker needle nodes pliers and file them down to fit the grooves.

(I had a parts camera sitting around.)

 

[Screwy]

Which part are you trying to remove Tuomo ? to adjust the vertical alignment you turn the inner slotted ring , There's a good chance that the outer ring is secured internally . My maizenberg book is up in the attic at the moment (I'm decorating🙁 ) I'll just get the painting finished and then dig it out and see what the master has to say on the subject .



Paul

 

[POSTI-Tuomo]

I'm trying to get the outer collar off, I suppose that is necessary to get the inner one out as well. I'm not doing any adjustments on the vertical RF alignment yet, I just need to get the top plate off so I can resume removing the knobs...

 

[Xmas]

Paul

On my Zorki 2 if you attempt to unscrew the adjuster cover collar you instead unscrew the inner part that carries the vertical adjuster 'excentric' optic.
This would then allow the top plate to lift off (for Tuomo), but all I wanted to do was adjust the rangefinder. If it is normally secured with shellac that would explain my problem, no shellac and Ru gorillia.

Noel

 

[Kim Coxon]

The easiest and cheapest way to get a tool is to make one. Get an old pair of needle nosed pliers and grind to tips down. You can then use them on the outer ring to "break" the shellac grip or the inner ring to adjust the RF patch. 😀



Kim

 

[Kim Coxon]

You should be able to take the whole unit out as one. Do not try to separate them.

Kim

I'm trying to get the outer collar off, I suppose that is necessary to get the inner one out as well. I'm not doing any adjustments on the vertical RF alignment yet, I just need to get the top plate off so I can resume removing the knobs...

 

[POSTI-Tuomo]

You should be able to take the whole unit out as one. Do not try to separate them.

That's what I'm trying to achieve, taking the whole thing out just to get to the next step in servicing the camera... I have some tweezers around the house, but no file to grind the tips down to proper size, so I'll just buy a pair of those circlip pliers.

 

[Kim Coxon]

I have a couple of pairs of circlip pliers both straight and angled. On all of them the points are rounded with a slot. Not only are they a bit big for this but would be difficult to use because of the "rounding".

Kim

 

[POSTI-Tuomo]

We'll see what the store has to offer...if the pliers are unsatisfactory, I'll get a file instead! 😀

 

[reagan]

Hey Tuomo, while you're waiting to go for tools, you might continue to "soak" around the edge with the lighter fluid. 50yr. old shelack can be similar to concrete. 🙁 It may take several applications of a drop or two and just letting it set for awhile to get down there and loosen things up. Repeat the process ... come back and apply another drop or two. Zorkis are stubborn! 😉

We'll be watching ~ cheers...

 

[Kim Coxon]

A drop of acetone (nail varnish remover) can work wonders and is more effective than naptha. However use carefully and don't get it on the paint or skin.

Kim

 

[zorroflores]

Shellac solvent

Shellac solvent

Just to add that the natural solvent for Shellac is alcohol, isopropyl alcohol can be used and you can get it in the pharmacy altough must probably a bottle is already at home

 

[wolves3012]

Just to add that the natural solvent for Shellac is alcohol, isopropyl alcohol can be used and you can get it in the pharmacy altough must probably a bottle is already at home

Correct - ethanol (alcohol) is the best solvent. Not wishing to "pull rank", but as a qualified chemist I can promise you that lighter fluid has almost no effect on shellac.

Posti - the best way to undo this if you don't have the correct tool is to make a spanner. Find a piece of flat bar thin enough to fit the slots. Near the end, file out a square (I used a mini-grinder to do it) that's deep enough to fit over the optic. I used an old small spatula and cut two sizes, one for Zorki 5/6 and one for FED/Zorki 1. Makes the job quite easy. Good luck!

 

[Xmas]

Zorro

My family used to manufacture it in Ireland, it was called the wee still, more normally Wiskey pr poteen, they tried to avoid the isoprop as it caused headaches...

Noel