Joshytsunami
Newbie
Hey guys, so I’ve been dabbling in on using rangefinders and I’m still a beginner but I love the craft and of it and would like to learn more stuff on it. My main problem is switching meters for long distance and close range pictures. Is there any tips you guys could share for a newbie like me? Thanks a bunch! Feel free to leave some tips aside from metering as well.
retinax
Well-known
"Metering" generally means light metering, is that indeed what you're referring to? That is unaffected by distance. Or do you mean something to do with focusing? Please elaborate and include what equipment the question is about.
Joshytsunami
Newbie
Sorry about that, I meant distance. Currently using a Leica M6 Classic with Voigtlander Nokton 35mm II ASPH lens.
Axel
singleshooter
There is nothing to switch between near and far objects. Just bring the focusing pad in a
clear status and take your picture.
With the lever on the front you can switch different frames for different focal lengths (other lenses)
manually in the viewfinder. The rangefinder is not affected by this switch
because it is not depending on the lens.
clear status and take your picture.
With the lever on the front you can switch different frames for different focal lengths (other lenses)
manually in the viewfinder. The rangefinder is not affected by this switch
because it is not depending on the lens.
retinax
Well-known
Perhaps you have been reading about dual-range summicrons or about parallax error... these aren't things you need to worry about now. Or you simply mean focusing, in this case refer to Axel's comment. We all can relate, picking up the vocabulary can be hard at the beginning of all things and that's frustrating because you don't even know what to look up. Perhaps start with the manual for your camera and a good, brief book.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Look at the lens you have. All you need to know is written on the lens at any given time.
Your lens have three scales. Closest to the filter is aperture.
I'm sure you already knows how to use it.
In the middle is distance scale, it does rotate as aperture ring, but then you focus.
Look at the lens and rotate focus ring. Where's third ring and it is symmetrical.
It is lens aperture on the left and on the right. All you need to do is to look at selected aperture on first ring and then look at the distance scale and then at the third, DOF scale.
DOF scale will shows you what distance range is in focus for selected aperture.
Left number of aperture will show closest distance, right - far. Everything in between is in focus.
RF focusing is for single point, precise focusing, DOF scale will shows you where else focus is.
Your lens have three scales. Closest to the filter is aperture.
I'm sure you already knows how to use it.
In the middle is distance scale, it does rotate as aperture ring, but then you focus.
Look at the lens and rotate focus ring. Where's third ring and it is symmetrical.
It is lens aperture on the left and on the right. All you need to do is to look at selected aperture on first ring and then look at the distance scale and then at the third, DOF scale.
DOF scale will shows you what distance range is in focus for selected aperture.
Left number of aperture will show closest distance, right - far. Everything in between is in focus.
RF focusing is for single point, precise focusing, DOF scale will shows you where else focus is.
cz23
-
There isn't any real difference between metering near and far scenes.
The M6 manual explains that the metering zone is 2/3 of the short side of the relevant framelines for a given lens. So obviously, the farther away the subject, the more subject area and tonal variations you will usually have in that space. Including more sky or snow, for example, will skew the reading.
But, near or far, the principle remains the same; the meter treats that zone as 18% gray. So you need adjust for what's read in the metered zone.
In either case, you can always take a reading from something close to middle gray with similar lighting and be confident using that setting. In fact, I think one of the best things we can do is learn to recognize middle gray and how what we see varies from that tone.
John
The M6 manual explains that the metering zone is 2/3 of the short side of the relevant framelines for a given lens. So obviously, the farther away the subject, the more subject area and tonal variations you will usually have in that space. Including more sky or snow, for example, will skew the reading.
But, near or far, the principle remains the same; the meter treats that zone as 18% gray. So you need adjust for what's read in the metered zone.
In either case, you can always take a reading from something close to middle gray with similar lighting and be confident using that setting. In fact, I think one of the best things we can do is learn to recognize middle gray and how what we see varies from that tone.
John
David Hughes
David Hughes
And if not middle grey then grass will do and you get that in a lot of landscapes.
Regards, David
Regards, David