rangefinder realistic slowest hand held shutter speed?

[tlitody]

an extract from "The Camera" - Ansel Adams (page 116(ish) under heading shutter speed).

Tests I conducted some years ago, photographing distant leafless trees against the sky, indicated that, using a normal lens with a hand-held camera, the slowest shutter that ensured maximum sharpness was 1/250 second. I found that even with firm body support image sharpness was noticeably degraded at 1/125 second, a speed that many photographers consider safe for hand-holding a camera with normal lens. With a lens of longer than normal focal length, even shorter exposure times will be required: 1/500 second with a 100mm lens and 1/1000 second with longer lenses, as a guide.

Now you can argue that it may not have been a rangefinder he was using but it doesn't say one way or another, but what it does say is that with a normal focal length lens which is roughly 1/diagonal of film format, and a distant subject, you need 1/250 for sharpness. The distance is important too. The critcal thing is the distance across the AOV in any direction that the subject moves. At distance the movement of a branch tip will be very small. I venture to say a lot smaller than a close subject.

There seems to be a gulf between what people think.

But I guess it really comes down to what is sharp enough to get the message across and not what is technically sharpest possible. There is a disconnect between the two and mostly sharp enough is good enough(for most us).

 

[kutting]

Strange question, for me I guess about 1/8th on a 35mm, but I might take a few to make sure. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I'll go with less, but I can be almost certain it won't work out so well.

 

[SimonSawSunlight]

I often shoot at 1/4 or 1/8 in winter (with a 35mm lens that is), in dark streets with no or few street lights where 1/15s with 400asa film just won't do. handholding it is one thing, but try to stop people from moving for one fourth of a second, so regarding your question, I'd say 1/15 to 1/30, depending on the subject and your timing skills =D

 

[dnk512]

Voted 1/8. At slow speeds it matters more what your subject is doing (than how steady you are).
If subject is not moving, you will be able to control your posture/stance/breathing etc, too. I found that indoors people reading, watching TV, etc 1/8 works (most times). Not so for cats. Of course, if the subject is rigid/asleep and I can brace my hand, B could work, too
(above numbers for normal lens)

 

[Calzone]

On a random note; I wonder if how steady we can hold a camera has any relation to how accurate we'd be shooting a rifle. 😛

Sniper rifles tend to be heavy. I rigged out my M6 with a TA rapidwinder and Rapidgrip. Overall its heavier than a M5. To me heavier equals steadier.

I didn't vote. Too much depends on subject distance, focal length, and if you can brace yourself.

Cal

 

[CK Dexter Haven]

Depends on Color or B&W (+/- grain) and focal length.

I tend to be more forgiving in black and white, which is already a bit 'abstract.' In color, 'accidental' blur just seems like a mistake (with exceptions). I have a snap of a friend, shot in our college dorm and it's not sharp at all. If it had been in color and i saw it on the contacts or as a 4x6 drugstore print, i would have dismissed it completely. But, on Tri-X, it's just sort of 'moody' and evocative and i love it. It's framed, and it's been on my shelf for 20 years.

To be honest, i was disappointed not to have a 'technically better' shot of her, but this is all i have. And, of course, a blurry color shot can be made into B&W, but i was speaking about final results. In the end, i have no idea what my 'minimum' acceptable speed is. It probably depends on many things. If i'm really concentrating on that shot, where we are, how close the subject is, if the point of the picture is to capture the person, or if it's meant to capture the person plus an environment.... Too many variables for a rule.

 

[muser53]

As many have noted the longest exposure depends not only on how
steady a hand the photographer has but also their ability to sense
that moment of stillness between the natural movement of their
subject. For me this usually translates into a shutter speed around a
30-60th when using a 50mm and faster if using a 75-90. Of course
all images don't need to be tack sharp to express a deeper meaning.
It only takes a basic understanding of photography to be able to make
the aesthetic decisions that allow us to convey what we are trying
to express with our images of the world around us.

 

[DNG]

I can do 1/30s fairly easy, and 1/15s with bracing. but 1/8s nada..
But this is for stagnant subjects.. for Street use 1/60s is my minimum.

 

[nikon_sam]

With my rangefinder (leaf shutter) I don't want to shoot handheld slower than 1/30...
Shooting with film I don't like wasting it, so if I don't think it will come out I'll walk away...unless it's one of those once in a lifetime moments...

 

[ChrisPlatt]

Sometimes I can't handhold 1/1000th steadily.
However I do plan to cut back on the caffeine...

Chris

 

[alfredian]

1/focal length, for SLR

1/focal length, for SLR

The old "1/focal length" is pretty good for SLRs, where all the mirror-slap, etc. makes things interesting. RF can go one speed slower, one more if you can lean on something.

The only time I use the self-timer is for 1/8 sec or slower - lean on something, set off the timer, clutch the camera and take a deep breath.

And all of this is strictly for camera-motion. Subjects continue to do, whatever.

 

[ampguy]

This one really shows the latitude of portra 160. It was meant to be shot at 1/2000, but somehow I had rolled the Bessa dial over to B. Fortunately, I realized it and quickly released my finger saving the photo:

http://matsumura.smugmug.com/Street-Scenes/J3-portra160-bessar/i-GpTWWFg/0/L/40860028-L.jpg

 

[xayraa33]

1/30th of a sec. with a 50mm lens or shorter, anything slower is taking a chance and it is more miss than hit at anything photographed hand held with a slower than 1/30th of a sec. shutter speed.

 

[Brian Legge]

I have more problems with subject movement than with hand holding movement at slow speeds. I don't really like shooting below 1/100th though I have plenty of shots that worked out around 1/15, a few around 1/8th.

 

[Fotohuis]

Yes, 1/15S with my M7 (Leica) on static objects is in fact almost 100%, even with a 50mm Summicron or (of course even better) 28mm Elmarit. Total weight around 1000g so pretty steady. Going under 1/15S it's more hard and you have sometimes to gamble if it's blurr free.
For a 35mm SLR it's around 1/60S due to the mirror. But I must say the M7 is extremely smooth in the shutter.

 

[icebear]

Sometimes I can't handhold 1/1000th steadily.
However I do plan to cut back on the caffeine...

Chris

LOL, this is with or w/o a triple tall latte?
Don't go over Start, get into your nearest Starbucks and order your drug immediately😀.

 

[Field]

My camera does 1/20 not 1/15. I use it at that speed all the time with a 50mm. They seems to come out ok.

 

[Melvin]

On a random note; I wonder if how steady we can hold a camera has any relation to how accurate we'd be shooting a rifle. 😛

Yes, absolutely. The main thing is not to jerk the trigger/shutter release, but to squeeze it until it "breaks"(like a glass rod). Jerking the trigger is called a "flinch", and will throw the shot off, usually low and to the left.
Next time the Winter Olympics are on watch the biathlon. The skiers are breathing hard and have to time their shots to their breaths.

 

[DougK]

I voted 1/30, assuming we're talking about a 35mm camera with a 50mm lens or shorter. I've taken shots at slower shutter speeds that worked out pretty well, but that was more luck than skill. I prefer 1/60 or even 1/125 if the light and flim/sensor allow.

 

[Johnmcd]

1/4 with the Mamiya 7. Probably, 1/8 with the OM1 and R-D1.