RC - Not Allowing Me To Keep Silent

R

ruben

Guest
I fidled with the idea I am done. Done about gear talk at least, and here comes my RC giving me a hard shock for good, I didn't imagine it could be so great.

First Great Surprise: Size
It all started several weeks ago, when I arrived to the happy conclusion that I must have a camera permanently with me, every day. Hence size matters most. Some days of my week I carry a pair of Kievs, which replaced lately my pair of Canonets. But most days of the week I travel to work by bycicle, with no walking contact at the streets, this being the reason for leaving the Kievs at home. Therefore I wanted a small and light camera.

So I went to my camera closet and took my old RC barely used. I happened to find a fitting case with a zip and put the whole thing into my belt pouch, where I stock my money, etc. But it still dragged a lot of space there. So I went to stitch a two parts leather case, prooving helpfull for space saving.

Then, as it couldn't be otherwise, the day came when I found myself at the streets without my Kievs, but with my RC. I blended at early morning with a group of people at a bus stop, and started shooting with the RC. Something of great importance happened that day. While taking pics I strongly perceived the small size of the camera allows me to get much closer to people than when using the Canonets, which by themselves are still much smaller than Kievs and others.

Never before I thought about it, although it is quite obvious. An almost miniature camera is a strategic asset for the street shooter. No one desires to be photographed by a stranger, but with such small a toy, he cannot be dangerous.

Adding a nice hood and a nice black wrist
I happened to have a 43.5 threadable HOYA hood, which i went to discover give more scoring points to the conspicuity issue. When you have a threaded metal hood it means a strongly attached one, you can walk-seat-stand holding the camera by its nose. Holding the RC by its nose means concealing half of the camera with your hand.

Of course at the very moment of focusing and firing you will have to hold the camera with two hands, unless for a more or less still subject you focus, and then lower the camera to a single hand with a finger ready to fire at the decisive moment.

So the threadable metal hood, whose size is like the whole nose compound, which was supposed to add undesirable size, has became an asset of conspicuity ! ! !

Tip
For further conspicuity, black tape most of the chrome parts or your RC with thin black self adhesive tapette. Not black electrician tape. Tapette.

Second Surprise: Hearing batteries proove very accurate
I am talking about the "big size" 1.4 volts, zinc air. I assume they don't last long but are fairly dirty cheap. I have read somewhere that they require air contact, already provided by the hole of the RC battery cup.

But due to some rust I notice in the unused ones I own, I have taken them out of the package which in my case have no provision for allowing them to breath.

Overcoming the shortcomings of the RC: The Yellow Patch
Out there are being sold "Lee Filters", which are highly transparent and non aberrationing. The one you are looking for is the 3ND, which will darken a bit your viewfinder, but you will see the yellow patch so good and contrasty that there will be no other viewfinder you will envy.

The cut from the 3ND is to be installed between the outer glass of the viewfinder and the diagonal yellowish glass, parallel to the outer glass and as much closer to it as possible. A light bit of glue will be enough.

Of course that an RC with a dim yellow patch, which is not only dim but small from factory, is a totally different camera. But with a contrasty viewing and focusing you will exploit to the maximum the big focuing knob and its very small travel, making focusing a very fast or slow operation, according to what you have and do about.

Overcoming the shortcomings of the RC: F 2.8
This and the dim viewfinder were my reason for leaving the RC in the closet for so long.

As for the f/2.8 we need to be phylosophical a bit. If I am going to shoot a friend, or a posing subject, at close range with a very very accurate camera, then an f/1.4 or f/1.7 will produce a nice effect. If I can shoot him or her at 2 meters or more, then I will feel more comfortable and assured for the results.

But if I am shooting people on the move, at strange and complicated situations putting me in dis-advantage, I will not want to use the f/1.4 and prefer the 2.8 with a neopan 1600. With neopan 1600 and f/2.8 you are touching the limits of low light necessary to focus with your eyes.

Now, don't get me wrong. Had I the chance to have an RC with an f/1.7 or f/2,
I would choose the widest possible apperture and happily pay the extra cost.
More features, more options. But I am trying to say that according to my short practice, when I felt the f/2.8 as an obstacle it was more of a prejudice than a real obstacle.

Conclusion
In this too long post, I have not spoken of other features and advantages of the RC, already described in other threads. But certainly I have put an emphasys on its size and its meaning for us.

For me it is very clear: in the arena of the fixed lens cameras, the RC as I adapted and use, is the best for the streets. Take into account that each of us is different and has different shooting temperament.

And, of course I am not saying that the best for street shooting is a fixed lens camera, but this is another story.

Cheers,
Ruben

PS
images soon.
 
Thanks for the great post, Ruben. You have inspired me to put the Canonet 28 back together (painted the shell black recently) since it's a pretty stealthy rig now. 🙂
 
The only part of this post that I do not understand is the covering of the camera with black tap. The RC & for that matter the Canonet are so small that when taking the photo most of the camera is covered. I believe that people do not notice the camera so much as the stance of the the person taking the photo. The most common response that I receive is people stopping to give to me a clear view tolet me take a photograph. The second common response is to be completely oblivious and walk in front of the camera. The third is when they notice me to actually smile to think that I would photograph them.
 
There is much truth in what you say Steve, the actual body shape of the photographer taking a photo, uncovers him most.

This is precisely what we want to conceal, in the measure of our capacity, in the case we want to be conspicuos. Not every time we want to be conspicuos and this varies according to the photographer. Smiling people can make a good image, but only smiling people will not make a great variety of images. So the more if we are talking about people smiling to the camera.

But when I am among a group of people I don't want to catch much attention and tension. A chrome camera draws more attention than a black one, the same as a black car looks smaller than a colored one of the same brand, or like a fat person looks more fat with colored clothes than with black clothes.

I would even say that chrome uncovers the camera more than size. And I cannot imagine how you manage to cover most of the front upper plate when you are shooting.

Back to the issue of attitude, I like very much to photograph couples kissing. I would not like them to stop kissing and turn their heads to smile to the camera.

Yet, as previously said, each one of us is different, as we are humans, and have diverging approaches to the meaning of our craft. My approach is not better than yours, it is just good for me.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
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Great post, Ruben. I too am a great fan of the 35RC, but I'm very concious that I really do not use it as much as I should. I have previously taken some good spontaneous photos of my children with it. As you have observed, because it is so small even young children are less likely to be wary of it. I would have preferred it to be aperture priority rather than shutter priority, but I have learned to work with it.
 
Yes, the little hood is great.

This was from last winter (no, it is not snowing in Rochester yet this season!); I needed very little unsharp mask. Parking lot at Borders Books.

2036872737_ee833d77f6.jpg
 
I'll have to look into the Hoya built screw on hood - because the hood built for the Olympus 35RC makes focusing a real PITA unless one has very narrow digits. I've never used mine.
 
OlyMan said:
....I too am a great fan of the 35RC, but I'm very concious that I really do not use it as much as I should. ........

Hi John,
Could you detail a bit why your 35RC doesn't go with you to work, supermarket, cinema, dinners, etc etc.

In a single word, why it is not always with you, outdoors.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Hi Ruben,

Great post - just put my 1st film through 1st rc. Very pleased - unfortunately I have a severe physical disability so I do not have the dexterity to do your veiwfinder mod; if I could ship the camera to you and paid for the return, would you consider doing it for me?

Just wish I had found it a lot earlier🙂.

Thanks again,

John W

Bristol UK
 
Hi Ruben,
I am intersted in your Rangefinder patch fix. Would be great if you coud make some opics and marke where to put the filter exactly. Also what is this filters characteristic/colour?
Best regards from Vienna
Des
 
Pitxu: Thanks for the link! I was lucky enough to get an RC hood at a really good price from a UK seller ... the UK seems to have far more RC & Trip accessories floating around that in North America.

That Trip with the green leather looks really nice ... I have the same (or similar) colour skin from cameraleather.com on one of my 35SPs. I might just get some for the RC and Trip so as to have matching big, medium and little brothers. 😀

Edit: If anyone comes across the PS100 flash, let me know. It is much like the much more common PS200, but horizontal in orientation rather than vertical. I really want one of those.

Also, I love the David Bailey ad linked from that page! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1wK2nhd8x0
 
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Ruben,
I read your post with big interest. I own a couple of RCs and also some of the original hoods. After having cleaned the finder the patch is clear to see. But I'd like to try the Lee filter. I made a research on the evilbay and found a ND3 hard filter. Is this the right one? By the way: do you know that the RC has a 3sec shutter function?
Just set the shutter to B and use the self timer! Very helpful in low light situations with the help of a tripod.

Wallace
 
wallace said:
Ruben,
I read your post with big interest. I own a couple of RCs and also some of the original hoods. After having cleaned the finder the patch is clear to see. But I'd like to try the Lee filter. I made a research on the evilbay and found a ND3 hard filter. Is this the right one? By the way: do you know that the RC has a 3sec shutter function?
Just set the shutter to B and use the self timer! Very helpful in low light situations with the help of a tripod.

Wallace

Hi Wallace,

Thanks for the info about the 3 sec. Nice thing to know.

Now I assure you that the Lee Filters will change your viefinder in a way you hardly can imagine.

I have taken a look at my package, which is mostly of light blue cardboard outside, and the only technical reference says 100mm X 100mm. And 3ND.

The size of the package goes accordingly.

Now, the filter itself, the 100 x 100 leaf is quite flexible. If what you are looking at is not so much flexible, within ceirtain common sense limits I don't see any special problem but you will have to be accurate in the cutting.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Wheelieman1 said:
Hi Ruben,

Great post - just put my 1st film through 1st rc. Very pleased - unfortunately I have a severe physical disability so I do not have the dexterity to do your veiwfinder mod; if I could ship the camera to you and paid for the return, would you consider doing it for me?

Just wish I had found it a lot earlier🙂.

Thanks again,

John W

Bristol UK

Hi John,
The problem with your proposal is in the customs. You are not selling me the camera and therefore not providing me an invoice, so my local fellow maniacs may impose a draconian tax, explaining me that I am doing bussiness below the table.

But if your yellow patch is in so miserable situation that you are ready to run the risk of me getting the camera without problems, or you loosing it at all due to me being forced to "return to sender" - then I have no problem in doing you the job.

Cheers,
Ruben

PS,
Another possible venue, may be to try to contact Brittish Jews at synagogues or whatever, since there is a lot of tourist travel from Jews to Israel. Then a person bringing it here - there will be no problem at all.
 
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Oscar Rubio said:
Thanks Ruben for your Tips and axperiences. iam loving my RC day to day.
Anyone knows where to buy the adhesive tapette??

some examples of this little beauty
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kulebras/

Hi Oscar,

The adhesive tappette comes in long rolls, from which you ask the seller the amount you want. Cheapy tappettes are found in Israel at places that in Spanish are called "ferreterias". The place where you buy working tools and home paint cans.

Higher quality tappettes (but beware they will not be too thick) are sold at Art instruments shops.

The feature we are looking in the tappette, against the electrician tape, is that the tappette is less elastic and therefore less prone to get out of place.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Spider67 said:
Hi Ruben,
I am intersted in your Rangefinder patch fix. Would be great if you coud make some opics and marke where to put the filter exactly. Also what is this filters characteristic/colour?
Best regards from Vienna
Des


HI Des,
The Lee Filter 3ND is a kind transparent celluloid with three highly usefull features for us:

1) It is a tiny bit dark. A TINY BIT. Thus improving the contrast and making the yellow patch much more identifiable. It has no color, as a glass neutral density filter.

2) For our needs it doesn't blurr the image at all, like glass.

3) In contrast to glass, you can cut it with a simple scissors.



Where is to be placed ?

The viewfinder has two sides. The rear one where you put your eye, and the front one at the front of the camera.
The filter is to be put next to the front side, but behind the front glass, i.e. inside the camera. For this you will have to dis-assemble the top plate.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben,
it seems there are 2 types of the Lee filters. I'll watch out for the thin ones since they
might be much easier to cut to the right size.
I think that the finder of the RC is a very good one, especially after cleaning.
The following link has been very helpful for me when I opened my first RC:

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-134.html

Take a look inside this beautiful little machine!


Wallace
 
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