frankweir
Member
Hi All...
Have just acquired an RD-1 from Robert White by the way for around $2100 USD but have a quick question. I apologize if this has come up before but I am a new member here and having trouble finding older messages...
Anyway, I am concerned about flash use with the RD-1 and what it's tolerance is for trigger voltages. I can't seem to find what the RD-1 can handle for trigger voltages...
Anyone know?? MANY THANKS!!
frank weir
frankweir@yahoo.com
Have just acquired an RD-1 from Robert White by the way for around $2100 USD but have a quick question. I apologize if this has come up before but I am a new member here and having trouble finding older messages...
Anyway, I am concerned about flash use with the RD-1 and what it's tolerance is for trigger voltages. I can't seem to find what the RD-1 can handle for trigger voltages...
Anyone know?? MANY THANKS!!
frank weir
frankweir@yahoo.com
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
I raised this question with Epson once before and couldn't get any specific numbers (I doubt if they can simply say "Maximum of X volts," because current would be involved as well) but I do know it has a transistorized sync switch rather than mechanical sync contacts, so would suggest you stick to modern units with low-power sync circuits. I've used it with a 1980s Speedotron Black Line power pack with no problems, so would think most anything from the last 20 years or so should be reasonably safe.
Trick I was taught by an old photographer: Hook up the PC cord and put the point of an ordinary lead pencil into the PC tip. The flash will fire, but don't look at it; watch the pencil lead. If you don't see a spark, the flash has a low-power sync circuit and should be OK. If you see a spark, it's an older unit with high-power sync circuit (needed for the external synchronizers of the 1950s vintage and earlier) and shouldn't be used with a modern camera.
NO GUARANTEES ON THIS ADVICE, though!
PS -- Also note that because it's transistorized, the R-D 1 (like many electronically controlled cameras) has a polarized sync circuit. If you're using a studio power pack with an "H" sync cord connector and it won't fire, try reversing the H connector. I've marked my power packs and cords with colored dots so I'll know which way they have to be plugged in for the R-D 1. Frustratingly, my Nikon equipment has the opposite polarity, so I have to go the opposite way for it.
Trick I was taught by an old photographer: Hook up the PC cord and put the point of an ordinary lead pencil into the PC tip. The flash will fire, but don't look at it; watch the pencil lead. If you don't see a spark, the flash has a low-power sync circuit and should be OK. If you see a spark, it's an older unit with high-power sync circuit (needed for the external synchronizers of the 1950s vintage and earlier) and shouldn't be used with a modern camera.
NO GUARANTEES ON THIS ADVICE, though!
PS -- Also note that because it's transistorized, the R-D 1 (like many electronically controlled cameras) has a polarized sync circuit. If you're using a studio power pack with an "H" sync cord connector and it won't fire, try reversing the H connector. I've marked my power packs and cords with colored dots so I'll know which way they have to be plugged in for the R-D 1. Frustratingly, my Nikon equipment has the opposite polarity, so I have to go the opposite way for it.
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
We have covered this topic in the past and as jlw says with no specific voltages/current figures for the R-D1 being found. If you are using an older flash unit I wouldn't be tempted to try anything that puts out over 25 volts without a Wein safesync: http://www.weinproducts.com/safesyncs.htm
Information on flash gun voltages and this topic in general can be found at: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
Information on flash gun voltages and this topic in general can be found at: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
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S
sreidvt
Guest
I second Jim's recommendation of the Wein, that's what I use. Better safe than fried.
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
I am not sure RD-1 supports electric flashes. Did you check the manual? I think it is advising the user to buy a mechanical flash instead.
Bob Parsons
Established
Pherdinand said:
Bulb with striker or flintlock and powder?
I can just about remember boxes of percussion flash bulbs turning up in jumble sales, Kodak I think.
This what the UK site http://www.epsonrd1.co.uk/accessories/index.html says (unfortunately they don't state the max voltage or polarity):
"Please note when using flashes that they do not use high voltage, since the flash shoe of the R-D1s is not equipped for it. Furthermore, TTL is not supported by the R-D1s for design reasons. The flash can either be connected via the flash shoe (ISO512) or with a cable over the X-Synchro contact. An exposure time of 1/125 seconds or less is required for flash synchronization."
The ISO organisation's search engine at http://www.iso.org/iso/en/Standards_Search.StandardsQueryForm gives: "Road vehicles -- Sound signalling devices -- Technical specifications" for ISO512, so I suspect the reference Epson quote is either wrong or incomplete.
Bob.
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Tsai
Workin' my way through the film fridge
Good idea about using the Wein, especially where there are some older flash products (like Vivitar 283s) that have variable flash voltages depending on the make and the production batch. So dont take chances!
Jim Watts
Still trying to See.
Tsai said:
I have 4 283's and they all measure at more than 200 volts. I think some put out as much as 600 volts.
anglophone1
Well-known
Take a look atJim Watts said:
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
for a list showing the 283 minefield!
I have 7 of these, and two more converted to bare bulb 200ws [armatars] definitely best triggered with a safe sync or a radio slave.
Conversely a 2500 seems to work just right on a RF camera both in size versatiility and safe voltage!..................buy for nothing on *bay.