Luddite Frank
Well-known
I have a couple of cameras whose black leather body-covering has become "browned" on the high-spots ( equivalent of metal bits becoming "brassed" ).
I have read comments here on RFF about using black shoe-polish improve the appearance of the leather.
My question is what TYPE / brand of shoe-polish works best, without rubbing-off on hands / clothing ?
My convenient options are:
Meltonian creme polish (I use this on my best dress shoes)
Kiwi "paste" polish ( in the familiar flat can )
Griffin or Kiwi liquid shoe dressing
I don't want to put something on that will become a sticky, forever on the hands / clothing pariah.
Thanks !
I have read comments here on RFF about using black shoe-polish improve the appearance of the leather.
My question is what TYPE / brand of shoe-polish works best, without rubbing-off on hands / clothing ?
My convenient options are:
Meltonian creme polish (I use this on my best dress shoes)
Kiwi "paste" polish ( in the familiar flat can )
Griffin or Kiwi liquid shoe dressing
I don't want to put something on that will become a sticky, forever on the hands / clothing pariah.
Thanks !
Highway 61
Revisited
If actual leather :
- typically apply some high quality pure China ink (Rotring or another equivalent brand) with a Q-tip on the areas you want to re-dye
- let it dry for several days and redo the operation if the leather hasn't come black enough
- then apply some high quality neutral leather cream (Woly, Collonil)
- let it dry
- gently polish with an used, soft, clean toothbrush.
- typically apply some high quality pure China ink (Rotring or another equivalent brand) with a Q-tip on the areas you want to re-dye
- let it dry for several days and redo the operation if the leather hasn't come black enough
- then apply some high quality neutral leather cream (Woly, Collonil)
- let it dry
- gently polish with an used, soft, clean toothbrush.
Sparrow
Veteran
... I wonder what they were finished with originally? ... I know one maker of leatherwear that uses nitrated lacquers, but I bet he's breaking all sorts of regulations in doing so
Jack Sparrow
Well-known
Definitely do NOT use shoe polish! It's a wax that will melt and get on everything.
Use leather dye or a black Sharpie.
Use leather dye or a black Sharpie.
Robert Lai
Well-known
Just use black leather dye. That's what it's made for. I use Fiebing's brand of dye for leather camera cases and other leathers that have worn.
Ideally you need to first strip off the old finish with some acetone (not nail polish remover, as it has oils in it). Use a Q-tip or a clean old rag for large areas. Then apply the dye and wipe off the excess. If the color is not black enough, apply again then wipe off. Eventually you will match the original shade.
Let it dry for a day, then condition the leather. Let the conditioner dry for a day.
Finally, apply a clear coat such as Meltonian neutral to protect the finish.
Ideally you need to first strip off the old finish with some acetone (not nail polish remover, as it has oils in it). Use a Q-tip or a clean old rag for large areas. Then apply the dye and wipe off the excess. If the color is not black enough, apply again then wipe off. Eventually you will match the original shade.
Let it dry for a day, then condition the leather. Let the conditioner dry for a day.
Finally, apply a clear coat such as Meltonian neutral to protect the finish.
Sparrow
Veteran
... sounds like the same idea, he is italian and described it as 'like french polish' ... but it was painted on and dried in seconds
Luddite Frank
Well-known
Thanks, chaps !
I will save the shoe-polish for its intended purpose.
The cameras in question are:
Voigtlander "Superb" TLR
Leica III , black, with leather (sharkskin?) body covering.
Will look for Feibing's at the local cobbler.
LF
I will save the shoe-polish for its intended purpose.
The cameras in question are:
Voigtlander "Superb" TLR
Leica III , black, with leather (sharkskin?) body covering.
Will look for Feibing's at the local cobbler.
LF
FrankS
Registered User
How does one rejuvenate tired, dry leather?
Sparrow
Veteran
We got some stuff from Ikea to use on the sofas, a bottle of stuff that cleans the surface and a second bottle to feed the leather .. I did my old pigskin jacket with it and knocked ten years off that.
I think the second one had petroleum-jelly in a water based emulsion
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Museums and bookbinders use a cream to deal with the old leather bindings on books but I can't think what it's called.
I also use something called "Lord Sheraton Leather Balsam" on my ETTRE.
Regards, David
Museums and bookbinders use a cream to deal with the old leather bindings on books but I can't think what it's called.
I also use something called "Lord Sheraton Leather Balsam" on my ETTRE.
Regards, David
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
When I want to touch up something I use water based paint, preferably Winsor Newton. If you do not like how it comes out water will remove the paint. You can cover it with Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax. I have not tried it on camera bodies because I have not had the the need to do so. I have tried it on other items and it works just fine. It was recommended to me by a Smithsonian restorer.
FrankS
Registered User
Thank you all.
Luddite Frank
Well-known
I will just add-in here, there is no product on this earth that will restore strength and integrity to ancient leather STRAPS, short of replacement.
Wouldn't want someone to think that one of these unctions will revive an old strap.
LF
Wouldn't want someone to think that one of these unctions will revive an old strap.
LF
Last edited:
ray*j*gun
Veteran
Thanks, chaps !
I will save the shoe-polish for its intended purpose.
The cameras in question are:
Voigtlander "Superb" TLR
Leica III , black, with leather (sharkskin?) body covering.
Will look for Feibing's at the local cobbler.
LF
Leica III's (which model?) were NOT covered with leather! The covers are baked on vulcanite which is a kind of vinyl/plastic stuff. I don't know what would bring "black" back to vulcanite but I do not believe shoe dye will work.
greyelm
Malcolm
ray*j*gun
Veteran
Ah yes greyelm.... thats much better and more helpful than my sad description and
Luddite Frank
Well-known
The body covering on my Voigtlander "Superb" and Leica III are still quite tight and sound. No reason in my eyes to strip them.
Just looking for a way to get them looking black again.
They have rubbed "brown" on the high-spots of the leather grain from being handled / used.
If no product seems safe / appropriate, I will leave them alone.
ZeissFan
Veteran
The high gloss of a new buffed leather covering recedes after a few days. It's leather. Treat it as you would treat other leather products.
There are times when the original covering is beyond saving. In that case, go for an after-market covering.
Some people like using cameras that look abused. Some don't. It's your camera, so you get to choose.
Here's a camera that was beyond saving. So I applied a new covering:
Before:
After
There are times when the original covering is beyond saving. In that case, go for an after-market covering.
Some people like using cameras that look abused. Some don't. It's your camera, so you get to choose.
Here's a camera that was beyond saving. So I applied a new covering:
Before:
After
Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
Black shoe dye, either Fieblings or Angel. It goes on blue-black, with an orange-ish sheen. Then follow with shoe polish. That's if it's leather. For vulcanite, you'll have to use a plastic patch. Be extremely careful with shoe dyebecause if you get it on anything, you will have a huge problem. It's even good a staining grained stainless steel.
That said, there is no need to "nourish," "feed" or coddle leatherette (which in the camera variety and especially old cameras is really what we would call bonded leather). It gets its strength from adhesive binders and its backing, which cannot be renewed (Armor All's claims notwithstanding). The front is just chopped leather bits (microscopic) held together with glue (leatherette is made from byproducts of other leather production, the grain being pressed in, and the whole thing essentially being painted). If your leatherette is falling apart, it probably has nothing to do with its tenuous relationship to an animal. It's the man-made part that's failing.
By the way, car "leather" is actually not that much different (car leather is either bonded or heavily treated), and that's one of the reasons it's so tough and liquid-resistant.
Dante
That said, there is no need to "nourish," "feed" or coddle leatherette (which in the camera variety and especially old cameras is really what we would call bonded leather). It gets its strength from adhesive binders and its backing, which cannot be renewed (Armor All's claims notwithstanding). The front is just chopped leather bits (microscopic) held together with glue (leatherette is made from byproducts of other leather production, the grain being pressed in, and the whole thing essentially being painted). If your leatherette is falling apart, it probably has nothing to do with its tenuous relationship to an animal. It's the man-made part that's failing.
By the way, car "leather" is actually not that much different (car leather is either bonded or heavily treated), and that's one of the reasons it's so tough and liquid-resistant.
Dante
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
The high gloss of a new buffed leather covering recedes after a few days. It's leather. Treat it as you would treat other leather products.
There are times when the original covering is beyond saving. In that case, go for an after-market covering.
Some people like using cameras that look abused. Some don't. It's your camera, so you get to choose.
Here's a camera that was beyond saving. So I applied a new covering:
Before:
After
Nice work! you can have the front plate rechromed