Reala 100 in D76 1:1, interesting results

[ampguy]

This roll of kitty sleeping was taken with the hexar af (one frame shows the triangular notch as it must have jumped the scanner negative holder).

Film was Reala 100, developed for 11 min. in D76 1:1 @ 74 deg., the original negatives are mostly different tones of purple or brown, but a few monochrome.

All were converted to monochrome, contrast adjusted, and sharpened in Picasa, during scanning, was 24-bit, 2400dpi, color negative, unsharp mask low.

here

 

[40oz]

that is interesting 🙂

How did you come up with a dev time?

 

[dmr]

Film was Reala 100, developed for 11 min. in D76 1:1 @ 74 deg., the original negatives are mostly different tones of purple or brown, but a few monochrome.

Interesting ... Stupid question here, when you developed this in B&W chemicals, did it still have the amber mask or was it clear?

 

[wizofz2k]

Great result! Thanks a lot for sharing this.
I'd heard it was possible but never seen the results before.
Straight b&w fix after the D76? ID11 would be nearly the same, wouldn't it?

PS: that is one fine moggie! 😛

 

[ampguy]

@40oz - time was just random, I knew that it would have to be longer than plain black and white film, so I just went with 11, I'll probably go with 12 next time (@ 74 deg F) as those 3 way underexposed frames were not likely that underexposed at capture.

@dmr - I only have one other reference as I just started developing again after a long absence. The 8 rolls of Neopan 100ss I did in the past few weeks were all thinner and lighter than these, and had a slight purple cast, these Reala negatives are so dark, that I had to hold them up to a very bright light to even see what the frame # is on the edges, and it was very difficult seeing the separation lines between the negatives.

@wizof2k - I haven't used ID11, just used D76 made from powder into a gallon of stock and mixed it 1:1. Fixer was just Kodak fixer for 5 minutes. No stop, just water changes, put a bit of hypo solution after the fixer for about a minute before about 5 minutes of rinsing.

Since it may be interesting to see the raw scans with no conversion to monochrome or contrast/sharpening, I'll post them shortly.

 

[ampguy]

OK here are the original scans, just reduced to 640 and way jpg compressed (original file sizes are ~ 3-4MB/file.

Any theories on the vast discrepancies between tones and exposures? The agitation was inconsistent, some minutes probably over agitated, possibly sat for a minute or 1.5 minutes with no agitation. But still, seems odd that there are 3 very underexposed frames, and that so many frames have varying contrast and tones.

 

[ampguy]

OK, here's another variable - about 10 were shot with the hexar flash - mix of both the full, and auto modes, the rest with sunlight through the window. So could be that the color temp from the flash fiill is responsible for the different tones and/or contrasts?

 

[Juno]

Why would you want to do this? Does Reala have some special qualities when used for black and white that you can't find in a black and white film?

 

[januaryman]

Fairly amazing that you got such good quality when you basically were shooting in the dark (pun not intended) and using two very different film chemistries to arrive at very nice photos. I congratulate you on your pioneer spirit and imagination. Impressive.

 

[ampguy]

Well the expired reala 100 does have different and very interesting qualities compared to Neopan 100ss when developed this way.

The initial reason for trying it was to answer the kids question about what would happen if we tried this. Now we know.

 

[Juno]

Well the expired reala 100 does have different and very interesting qualities compared to Neopan 100ss when developed this way.

The initial reason for trying it was to answer the kids question about what would happen if we tried this. Now we know.

I suppose if you only ever take pictures of your cat then that might make some kind of sense ;-)

 

[Trius]

Pretty cool ... he looks a lot like my cat Fergus, esp. # 20.

 

[benno]

Awesome. How long do you reckon I should aim for with Ilford LC29?

Picking up a newly cleaned lens tomorrow and have TONNES of expired reala.

 

[fergus]

Pretty cool ... he looks a lot like my cat Fergus, esp. # 20.

A good name for a cat 🙂

 

[shadowfox]

Groovy! Ted, I actually like the contrast a lot. How much contrast-tweaking did you do, if any?

Gotta get the nerve to dev that XP2 roll that I have in queue.

 

[ampguy]

another roll of Reala 100 in D76 1:1 13 min @ 72 deg F

another roll of Reala 100 in D76 1:1 13 min @ 72 deg F

Much more consistent than the previous roll done at 11 minutes, all outdoors in contrasty light, the exposures were scanned at 16-bit 2400 grayscale with unsharp mask on low.

The reason for the last set having one mis-framed was that you need to specify color film, even when scanning as grayscale.

Contrast was adjusted in Picasa, and sharpening added.

I didn't have much to go on for time, but thought that the last roll at 11 minutes could use another minute or so, and the temps were 72 deg instead of 74, so I added 2 minutes to 13 minutes dev. time.

No stop, fixer was Kodak fixer 1:1 for about 4 minutes. Also took a roll of Neopan 100 just after this roll which already looks smoother and "more normal" but haven't scanned yet.

here

 

[ampguy]

Kodak MAX 800 color film in D76 1:1 for 15 minutes, 72 deg. F.

here

 

[jan normandale]

there have been several discussions and threads here at RFF on this topic. Check

Ilford XP2 in Acutol

C 41 in Rodinal

Kodak C41 BW in Xtol