Really Basic D-76 Questions

W

wlewisiii

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I've decided that, since Diafine and TMY sheet film don't seem to want to play nicely together, I need to get another developer. From what I've read here and elsewhere, I've pretty much settled on D-76. But I'm having no joy trying to google the answers to a couple of my questions about this developer.

1) Is this something I can pour back into the jug as I do with my Diafine or is this something I pour down the drain after the X minutes @ Y degrees?

2) Where does replenisher play into this?

3) Is a 28% acetic acid stop bath a necessity, or will a water rinse/stop work as well?

4) How touchy is it regarding time and temp in the real world?

Thanks all,

William
 
wlewisiii said:
1) Is this something I can pour back into the jug as I do with my Diafine or is this something I pour down the drain after the X minutes @ Y degrees?
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D-76 can be used repeatedly without replenishment, with something like 6 or so rolls per liter, adding 5-10% per roll. However, it's usually used as a one-shot. It's also often used diluted, in which case is must be used as a one-shot

2) Where does replenisher play into this?
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There is a replenisher available that will let you keep developing at normal times, but it's generally only for larger labs. The stuff is pretty inexpensive.

3) Is a 28% acetic acid stop bath a necessity, or will a water rinse/stop work as well?
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I use just a water rinse/stop. No problems there.

4) How touchy is it regarding time and temp in the real world?
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I don't believe it's any more touchy than any other developer, but it's not like Diafine. You need to get it to the right temperature, or adjust the time to match. And, unlike Diafine, you can overdevelop if you're not careful.

allan
 
William, you can use it full strength and then return it to the original jug. When you've processed a certain amount of film, you'll need to add a small amount of replenisher to keep it at full strength and fresh.

An acid stop bath is not necessary and a plain water rinse/stop works just fine.

D-76 is pretty forgiving and a little extra time - or a little less - won't be noticeable in most cases.

If you enlarge in a wet darkroom, paper developer (Dektol, for instance) can also be used to develope sheet film and the results are generally fine.

Walker


wlewisiii said:
I've decided that, since Diafine and TMY sheet film don't seem to want to play nicely together, I need to get another developer. From what I've read here and elsewhere, I've pretty much settled on D-76. But I'm having no joy trying to google the answers to a couple of my questions about this developer.

1) Is this something I can pour back into the jug as I do with my Diafine or is this something I pour down the drain after the X minutes @ Y degrees?

2) Where does replenisher play into this?

3) Is a 28% acetic acid stop bath a necessity, or will a water rinse/stop work as well?

4) How touchy is it regarding time and temp in the real world?

Thanks all,

William
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Thank you for the information Allan and Walker, those answers pretty much settle it for me. I'll pick it up next time I'm at the neighborhood camera shop.

William
 
One good advise is to prepare the full gallon and break it into smaller bottles (500 ml/16oz were my favorite) filled to the birm so it'll last longer.
 
There are some other alternatives you might consider. Kodak makes a specific liquid concentrate developer designed for T-max. "T-Max RS Developer". You dilute this with water to make a developer solution. You can either use this as a "one shot" and throw it away, or you can mix up a gallon, and replenish wiwth "T-Max RS Developer Replenisher" after each use.
Also, another very convenient liquid concentrate developer that will work well with T-max films is Kodak HC-110 Developer. Which is a syrupy liquid concentrate that you also dilute with water for use. There is also a replenisher for this, which you can use if you want to keep a jug or tank of diluted ready-to-use developer, and pour back after development.

The T-Max films are tricky, more tricky than standard b/w films such as Plus-x and Tri-x, and are more sensitive to variations in the agitation in the developing. I can't imagine doing sheet-film sizes of T-max in Diafine.
 
I'll probably be using it at full strength. The main reason for that is because I use a patterson clone tank for my sheet film - to ensure that the sheets are fully covered takes almost a full liter of fluid. To do one shot at 1:1 would only give me 4 sheets of film per liter of developer, while by reusing it I should be able to get 6 to 8 uses out of that liter or 24 to 32 sheets of film. Given my tight budget constraints, that's a major plus for me.

This, of course, presumes I'm understanding everything correctly ... :eek: :D

William
 
Using D-76 at full strength is just fine. It has fairly good keeping qualities. I used to keep a 3 1/2 gallon tank full, and developed 4x5 and 8x10 film on stainless hangers. Of course I had to do this in a darkroom. I was amazed at how long that developer lasted, months, at least, in that large a quantity.

If you have a darkroom, you can also develop sheet film in a print tray, with very little solution, interleaving them continuously for agitation. I have done this also many times. This is perhaps the most even development you can get with sheet film. You have to be good at doing things in total darkness, though.
 
I develop sheet film in the dark in those "snap lid" disposable food storage containers. This way I can agitate by rocking without worrying about spillage. And the low cost of my "trays" means I can buy lots of them.
 
Total dark isn't going to happen in this house anytime soon I fear. I like the idea of the food containters though - perhaps if I find one that is totally opaque and fill it inside my changing bag... Hmm. Might work...

William
 
I am just wondering what difference does the dilution make...have to develop longer..
so will it be more grainy if it's more dlluted?
 
Actually, the grain is slightly finer @ 1:1. Also, slightly lower contrast and slightly higher effective speed.
 
Thinking "outloud" a bit here about that plastic food box idea. Presuming I could find several that are just a bit bigger than 4x5 sheet film...

Put down a towel in the bottom of the changing bag. Fill three containers - one with developer, one with water or stop and one with fixer - and put in a larger pan as a warm water bath to make sure temp is correct (all three sealed) before putting in the bag. Place film holder(s) in bag and zip closed. Open the holders and drop into first one and start timing while agitating reclosed container. Remove to water for a minute or so. Then move to fixer for my usual 10 minutes of fixing. Then unzip and put into a wash. Hang dry as normal.

Anyone think this process would be even semi-sane for tray development without a darkroom?

William
 
wlewisiii said:
Thinking "outloud" a bit here about that plastic food box idea.
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William,

They used to make changing "tents" in which you could do exactly what you are saying. They were fairly large contraptions with an internal frame and two light trap arm sleeves, just like their smaller brother changing bags.

Probably still available somewhere but I have no idea where to direct you.

Tom
 
I've seen the tents, way too much money that's better spent on film :D ($130 the one place I remember). The changing bag I have is fairly large. I currently can have the holder, box of film, patterson tank and move around quite easily to empty, reload, and put film into the tank, so I'm comfortable with the idea if I can find appropriate sized plastic.

As for a darkroom, this is an older house. No small spaces other than the bathroom and it would be a nightmare to work in for more reasons than I care to go into. I don't know about other places but around here it used to be that the number of rooms in a house counted for the property tax and a closet or bathroom was considered a separate room and increased your tax considerably. Hence, no closets and wierd conversions of spaces for bath rooms at a much later date.

So all in all, I'd prefer to find a cheap :D way to do tray developement on my kitchen counter after my little guy is down for his nap.

William
 
Those I have are perfect for 4X5; I think Ziplock makes them. Try the grocer's.
 
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Thanks, I'll snarf some when we go grocery shopping on Monday ("Dear, I need a few of these... " :) ) I blew a shot the other day (as mentioned above, lens still on T and pulled darkslide) so it's perfect to use as a measuring device :bang: Not much else, mind you... :D

William
 
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