Really old film: hurdles in development (Tokyo)

[kiss-o-matic]

Hi gang:

I recently lifted some crazy old film. I think the oldest roll expired in 1976, and plenty more in the 80's. All the 35mm is Sakura Film which is well out of production... has been for 30 years, I think. I'm expecting weird and wild things out of this film. However, most places I know that develop around here are big businesses... not mom & pop places that don't mind a curveball every now and again.

Reading around on the interwebs, I see some places cross, some don't. Some advertise pushing, some don't.. I've seen a few places that list their developing prices by film brand (Kodak or Fujifilm). That last one is kind of making me squirm. Should I research this a bit more, ask around and whatnot?

If anyone specifically in Tokyo has recommendations, I'd like to hear.

 

[sevo]

It is hard to tell what their early products were - some sources say Agfa process, others claim they started as a Kodachrome licensee. But later Konica/Sakura film was E6 or C41 - 80's film doubtlessly is, but even 1976 probably will already be in that era. So your film will process in the current standard chemistry.

As to exposure, you'll have to test - the film will have changed, but it is hard to tell into what direction. Exposure is pretty much the only variable you have, as few labs can pull and pushing will increase both fog and colour shifts, of which you'll already have more than you want. If it is slide film and the colours or contrast are dramatically off, one last resort would be cross processing.

 

[Lflex]

There is a huge scene around this type of development in Tokyo. I never persued it myself, but would recommend you to visit the Lomo shop as a high percentage of their customers are into this - they may give you some pointers to physical shops.

A small rather intimate and friendly lab/shop that seems to cater to the audience that enjoys "happy mistakes" is this one: http://mandoflex.tumblr.com/day/2012/02/26
The neighbourhood in itself is worth a visit.

Good luck.

 

[charjohncarter]

C-41 expired film that has not been exposed loses speed fast. I'm shooting some 2002 Kodak Max 400 at 100. It is doing pretty well with Costco development:

I did shoot some from the 76 and I got something but the colors were really out there:

Also normal development.

 

[alienmeatsack]

I second to the recommendation to try the nearby Lomo shop, esp if it's a full Lomo shop and not a partner. They will probably be able to tell you who to talk to about getting it developed properly.

My oldest film experience was some Tri-X from the mid 70s that was not stored correctly and was in pretty bad condition. I used 3 of the rolls making failed attempts at finding the right ISO and development time to get shots out of them. Fun to do though.

I'd be willing to bet that they've slowed down in speed by 2 stops or so and the color may be off quite a bit. But that's the fun of trying them. Just remember to try it at speed and then over exposed by 1-3 stops to do a test and then do the rest of the rolls based on the results. 😀

charjohncarter - love that bottom one. Those colors just are too cool!

 

[charjohncarter]

Yes, there others on the roll were weird too.

 

[jwicaksana]

I'd be willing to bet that they've slowed down in speed by 2 stops or so and the color may be off quite a bit. But that's the fun of trying them. Just remember to try it at speed and then over exposed by 1-3 stops to do a test and then do the rest of the rolls based on the results. 😀

charjohncarter - love that bottom one. Those colors just are too cool!

I usually go by the rule to overexpose 1 stop per decade for BW or color negative film. That I consider to be the bottom line, sometimes I run it +2 to get good results. With some emulsions, they keep the colors well but they curl up really bad and the base became too fogged to be scanned. That's where overexposing by a few stops help.

 

[charjohncarter]

I usually go by the rule to overexpose 1 stop per decade for BW or color negative film. That I consider to be the bottom line, sometimes I run it +2 to get good results. With some emulsions, they keep the colors well but they curl up really bad and the base became too fogged to be scanned. That's where overexposing by a few stops help.

I've read 1 stop per decade, but I'm more like 2 stops per decade because the shadow areas just go to grain. And those are hard to scan properly.

I'm not an expert so these are just my observations.

Although, (edit) if you know something positive about the storage then you may be able to get by with less reduction in film speed.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Good information. And yes, there is a Lomo shop in Meguro I think. I'm not in that part of town too often, but I'm a quick bike ride away, so maybe I'll swing by next weekend and ask them what they think.

When you you over and under expose with this stuff, will simply shooting in Ae mode with compensation on the +/- dial work?

I'm running out the door now, but I will post what the film is tomorrow and maybe can get some more pointers.

EDIT: Wow, embarrassing. The Lomo store is right down the street. :|

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Okay, here's what I got -- interested in hearing strategies to test the waters.

Sakuracolor R-100 (Slides) x 3 (Expiration date June 1972)
Sakuracolor SR100 (SR-100-24 Negative Film for Color Prints) x 2 (Expiration December 1986)
Fujifilm Neopan SSS (Expiration Date March 1974)
Fuji Neopan SS (Expiration Date December 1973)

For the sake of completion, here's the 120 stuff:
Kodak High Speed Ektachrome (For color transparencies) x 3 (expiration March 1973)
Fuji Neopan SS Safety Film Expiration date Feb 1973 x1, August 1973 x 1

 

[charjohncarter]

I've shot E-6 expired about ten years, had it developed at Walmart. I used normal exposure there was color shift.