Really want to do tintype photography (Rolleiflex)

[jusxusfanatic]

Sound good 🙂 thanks!

How do you even make tintypes with a 35mm haha

 

[jammcat]

Perhaps you've read this article:

https://petapixel.com/2017/01/18/using-rolleiflex-cameras-make-tintypes-daguerreotypes/

 

[x-ray]

Great work!

Would you recommend a speed graphic or should I stick to wooden view cameras?

Thanks

A speed would work fine. Just keep in mind silver nitrate will corrode and stain anything it touches.

as a point of information and caution ( my degree is in chemistry ) silver nitrate is metallic silver dissolved in concentrated nitric acid. Even in the 10% solution you use its highly corrosive, causes stains on the skin and can cause severe irritation and if splashed in an eye it will blind you.

To the OP, you've made up your mind so go for it.

 

[x-ray]

Perhaps you've read this article:

https://petapixel.com/2017/01/18/using-rolleiflex-cameras-make-tintypes-daguerreotypes/

Just because someone does it doesn't mean it's wise.

I use potassium cyanide (super deadly) as my fixer. I always use eye protection, rubber apron and rubber gloves. One drop in a cut and you're seriously sick if your lucky or you die in a few seconds. I've seen people doing collodion put their hands in the cyanide. Crazy!!! I saw one get seriously sick because of a tiny cut on his hand. Just because someone does something stupid doesn't mean it's smart. It's his camera and he can do anything he want with it.

 

[jammcat]

You could just as easily be using sodium or ammonium thiosulfate to fix your plates and avoid the super deadly potassium cyanide. I am not certain what your angle is here. Are you trying to discourage wet plate shooting altogether, despite the fact that you apparently do it and intentionally use the most dangerous possible fixer?

That being said, I would look into a book on historical process/alternative process photography and learn and internalize all of the the safety precautions before doing so-- just like with any other photographic chemistry (I'm looking at you, pyrocatechol).

It's also probably better to modify a large format camera for wet plate use (which I believe has already been discussed in this thread) as there will be less potential damage to your camera and your plates will be larger. With a little more effort, you could build a large format camera specifically for wet plates out of mostly spare parts.

Just because someone does it doesn't mean it's wise.

I use potassium cyanide (super deadly) as my fixer. I always use eye protection, rubber apron and rubber gloves. One drop in a cut and you're seriously sick if your lucky or you die in a few seconds. I've seen people doing collodion put their hands in the cyanide. Crazy!!! I saw one get seriously sick because of a tiny cut on his hand. Just because someone does something stupid doesn't mean it's smart. It's his camera and he can do anything he want with it.

 

[x-ray]

You could just as easily be using sodium or ammonium thiosulfate to fix your plates and avoid the super deadly potassium cyanide. I am not certain what your angle is here. Are you trying to discourage wet plate shooting altogether, despite the fact that you apparently do it and intentionally use the most dangerous possible fixe.

I use Cyanide because it produces a more pleasing and richer looking color in the plate. Some people like the look of ammonium thiosulfate but I like The warmer color if KCN.

I'm not trying to discourage anyone but I am trying to emphasize safety. It is a dangerous process. The vapor from the collodion is highly flammable, its diethylether. Silver nitrate and cyanide, see above warning. Also KCN releases deadly hydrogen cyanide gas if mixed with an acid like silver nitrate or an alkaline. Ammonium thiosulfate is just rapid fix and is safe.

Two reasons not to use a Rollei. 1) you'll ruin it with silver nitrate. 2) it has a modern lens and won't give the vintage look as well as a vintage design petzval. Petzval lenses have a very distinct look and were the popular lens design during the period. The reason, they were fast for the time reducing exposure times for portraits. Collodion is very slow. I'd guess the ISO of the emulsion I brew is well under ISO 1. In the studio I use two lights, one with 3 150w 5000k cfl bulbs in a metallic reflector and another with 24 28w 5000k and UV bulbs mixed together. With my Darlot petzval my exposures are 15 to 45 seconds depending on how fresh my emulsion is. I mix my own collodion which is based on the Quinn formula.

I use three petzval lenses. One is a 13" Darlot that's about f4.5. Doesn't sound fast but it was for the time. It's huge and heavy and just barely fits on my 8x10 with a 6x6 lens board. I use it on whole plate and 8x10. The second is a beautiful Ajax petzval. It's about 10" in FL and around f4.5 as well. It's my favorite and makes stunning images. The third is a projection petzval from an old lantern slide projector. It about f3.5 and 5" in FL. It covers 4x5 and has tons of character and swirls. I also use a couple of rapid rectilinear lenses. One of my favorites is a Voigtlander from 1890 that I use on my 8x10. I think it's a series IV #4. I also use another rebranded RR from the same period.

 

[robert blu]

As a chemist by formation I strongly suggest whatever you do please do not under evaluate any safety precautions.

Accidents happen sometimes, better to be safer then regretting it later.

robert