Recommendations for equipment selling?

Carterofmars

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I want to thin out my collection over the next several weeks or so, and was hoping to get some advice/recommendations about listing here on RFF.

I want to be sure I create as simple and problem free listing as possible, for both myself and any prospective buyers.

Two of the cameras, one listed already, have been purchased from RFF members in the past. I unfortunately didn't record their names etc. This was pre-feedback days I believe.

Should I sell via Classified or auction? What are the pro's and con's of each? Any pitfalls I should be aware of?

I'm an honest guy and want to have deals/transactions with the like. I have some great RF's, and an unused larger formt, that I'd like to sell for a fair price; and they should get more use. They should be in hands creating art- not sitting on a shelf looking pretty. ;)
 
I've found it best to list the items and set a price. You've posted here for several years; buyers will look at that as well as the Feedback page.

Everything involving RFF members has been perfect in every way.

By the way, it's tricky to find the place to leave feedback. You can see my solution below. Use the search; there have been a couple of postings about how to leave feedback.

GLWS.
 
I, too, would like some information on this. I will have to thin the herd sometime in the future and want to be able to do it without hassle. What about selling to a dealer? Is this a good option or too costly to the seller? Thanks for your help.
 
Selling to dealer is too costly option. Dealer is not going to give you sale price, you will get much lower price, because dealer needs to make profit and can't sell for more than going (street, ebay) price.
Dealer is good solution if you need quick bucks.
 
I just had B&H give me a quote on some medium format gear and other then being very convenient to just box up the camera and ship to them the prices were ridiculous. Now I know they need to make a profit but a 100 to 130% markup.

I was quoted $300 for a Pentax 645N while they have one listed for $700 and also quoted $500 for a zoom lens which they were selling for $1300. So a total quote of $800 for an outfit they want $2000 for in their used equipment section.
 
I'd never sell to a dealer/retailer; too much of a hit. They have to make their profit. They may, at best, pay 30-40% of value I believe.
 
I've found it best to list the items and set a price. You've posted here for several years; buyers will look at that as well as the Feedback page.

Everything involving RFF members has been perfect in every way.

By the way, it's tricky to find the place to leave feedback. You can see my solution below. Use the search; there have been a couple of postings about how to leave feedback.

GLWS.

Thanks Col. I'm a 'The Adventure of the Dancing Men' aficionado myself ;)
 
Try poking around on Facebook. I just finished a transaction on a group Leica Classifieds. Everything thing went smoothly. There are no fees etc.
I'm sure there are other groups like that on Fb for other makes/formats.
Of course shipping from Mars might be prohibitive :)
 
Try poking around on Facebook. I just finished a transaction on a group Leica Classifieds. Everything thing went smoothly. There are no fees etc.
I'm sure there are other groups like that on Fb for other makes/formats.
Of course shipping from Mars might be prohibitive :)

I was thinking the same about FB. Ebay doesn't seem to be a viable option for sellers now- sadly.

Fed Ex from Mars is not too bad. :)
 
Something to consider before posting ads here in the classifieds, or on Photrio or Fred Miranda, is the way you choose to price it, as opposed to the place that generates the most sales, eBay, is this: eBay is frequently the quickest way to sell something, and will net you much more than selling to a dealer (which is even quicker). However, eBay skims 10% off the top of everything you sell, and the mandatory Paypal payment option skims off another 3%. 13% is a pretty big hit to your wallet, but it’s easy and fast if you are realistic about your asking price.

How does one determine a “realistic” asking price? Knowing what large numbers of items identical to yours have actually sold for in the world wide market of willing buyers and willing sellers will tell you what your item is really “worth”. And, no, just because it belonged to your dear, departed mom doesn’t make it worth more, even if it gives you some added emotional feeling of value. Nobody cares, nor should they.

This is where eBay comes in handy, because it is the world’s biggest data base of actual sales prices. Take the item you want to sell, go to eBay and do a search for that item and you will usually find scads of similar ones listed for sale. Disregard the “buy it now” prices shown as being generally irrelevant. Go to the top right of the search results page and hit the “advanced” button which takes you to a second page of search results, one which allows some winnowing. Find the box which allows you to narrow the search results to show only “sold listings”. The results shown there, taken as an average (and there will be scant standard deviation if you take condition into account) are what your item is “worth” to a sane buyer. These prices will be considerably, and perhaps disappointingly, less than the pie in the sky/I believe in unicorns “buy it now” prices which tend to populate the main search page. Such is life.

You now have a solid, realistic number which reflects what your item is ever likely to sell for. The next question is: Where do I sell it? You sell it on eBay, and eBay takes 13% just for making it easy and quick for you. Fair enough, them’s the rules.

Or, you sell it here and pay a flat $7 to post the ad, plus you have the option of asking to receive the net amount for which you are asking. (No eBay 10%, no Paypal 3%). If you are selling a $10 item it makes no sense to list it here, because the ad cost you $7 and eBay is only going to charge you $1.30 to sell it.

The next question, if you are going to sell it here or on Photrio or Fred Miranda, is “How much do I list it for, if I am selling it here as opposed to eBay?” That’s an interesting question, and different people answer it differently, depending on their personalities, as near as I can tell. You already know, from the sold listings on eBay, exactly what it is really worth. You can take that number, deduct 13%, list it here and give someone here in “the community” an opportunity to get a “nice deal” , while at the same time costing you absolutely nothing relative to what you would have actually pocketed had you sold it on eBay. Or, you can go for the gold, to hell with the “community”, and list it for the full (realistic, real world selling price); buyer doesn’t really get a “deal” but does get your item for what it is really worth on the open market, and you get to pocket what you would have received at the eBay selling price plus 13%.
Different strokes, for different folks. I see things listed here for the same exact price they are listed at on eBay, where there is ten times the selection, plus aggressive Paypal buyer protection, and sense someone who is only trying to gouge me by maximizing their net, but I understand it’s all how you look at it. I would never consider buying from them, though.

When I list something here, I take the amount I know I could sell it for on eBay (what buyers buy it for on Ebay, i.e. it’s actual value to others), deduct the 13% I know I would lose if I sold it on eBay, and list it for the lower amount here, because I understand that’s all I would get for it anyway, and maybe somebody else gets happy in the bargain. Then I usually list it later on eBay for the higher price if it doesn’t sell here in a few days, and, it rarely lasts 72 hours over there.

So, to the OP, that's how you determine what to sell things for, with an added dose of personality inventory thrown in for nothing:)

And yes, I know, occasionally you can sell something for the pie in the sky amount you “want” to get for it because you think you “deserve” to get that much. That’s the “Next biggest fool” theory of marketing, and sometimes it works. It works every day in the housing market.
 
Here's another hint on eBay. Place it on eBay with a very high reserve and see how high the bidding goes. That gives you a decent idea of what some is willing to pay. Then subtract 15% and list it here.

I no longer eBay not only because of the fees but because of their policies. You can really take it in the shorts if the seller ends up stiffing you.
 
Here's another hint on eBay. Place it on eBay with a very high reserve and see how high the bidding goes. That gives you a decent idea of what some is willing to pay. Then subtract 15% and list it here.

I no longer eBay not only because of the fees but because of their policies. You can really take it in the shorts if the seller ends up stiffing you.

There are many horror stories for eBay sellers. Too many scamming buyers are plaguing the site now and eBay apparently sides with the buyer 99% of the time. I listed a camera and had bidders asking if I'd ship the camera to another address or if they won if I'd meet to hand off the camera, rather than ship through the system.
 
Ship only by PayPal verified address and no returns accepted. It will take more time to sell, but no horror stories.

I have one American, one Australian large seller backing out from paid purchase, just because sell price was too low for them. The excuse was - trouble with shipping address.
Which was simply a lie. My PayPal address is verified.
 
There are many horror stories for eBay sellers. Too many scamming buyers are plaguing the site now and ebay apparently sides with the buyer 99% of the time. I listed a camera and had bidders asking if I'd ship the camera to another address or if they won if I'd meet to hand off the camera, rather than ship through the system.

Not 99% but 100%. All the seller has to do is check the "not as described" and the seller is stuck for shipping both ways. Reason so many items on eBay are now from stores and priced higher than most other internet or brick & mortar stores.
 
Not 99% but 100%. All the seller has to do is check the "not as described" and the seller is stuck for shipping both ways. Reason so many items on eBay are now from stores and priced higher than most other internet or brick & mortar stores.

Just happened to me on an old unopened product I found was a collectors item. Buyer was pissed the original packaging tape was slightly askew.

I've found as both a buyer and a seller, ebay has been great to sell little bits and pieces that are of modest monetary value but invaluable to whomever is looking for it, like old camera parts.
 
Not 99% but 100%. All the seller has to do is check the "not as described" and the seller is stuck for shipping both ways.

All the buyer has to do... I think is what you meant to write. But yeah, its behavior like that that keeps me from ever trying to sell there. I've had many good purchases there, but I don't sell.
 
I use craigslist all the time. Just sold two more cameras this past week on it. Easy transactions and free. Just meet in a public place.
Also use fredmiranda.com- they have a huge Buy/Sell presence, much much bigger than here.
 
If you really want to find a way to dispose of a collection of camera gear, find a local auction house, and have them sell it for you.

But beware that because you are fairly restricted to the local populace for buyers, you might find the B&H or KEH price quotes more enticing.

At least you got quoted a 50% valuation, whereas if you took that stuff to a pawn shop, you only get 10%. Now a consignment shop might give you upwards of 75%, but it depends on what the local market is like. And that is only paid after the item is sold. Some consignment shops even start reducing the For Sale price after 30 days.

You have to look at B&H's side too. They are giving you a quote based on what you say about the condition of your item. I'm pretty sure that every day they get new inventory in that is not what it was described as. They have to cover any loss incurred with shipping, or not being able to sell it for as high a price as they thought based on your condition report.

I've gone to camera shows where they had buyers set up to give quotes on what you wanted to sell. They were not from B&H or KEH, but some other stores in NYC that were anonymous. And they gave scathingly low quotes on everything. I had a bag full of Zeiss accessories that I had no use for at the time. When the total quote was added up, it was less than $100 for close to $800 worth of items. I thanked the buyer for his time, packed them up and walked away, all the while he was begging me to let him re-quote them. But if he had originally given me a 50% valuation, I'd have taken it. 30%, and we'd have done some haggling. But starting out at 10% was just an insult. The two guys in line behind me dropped out after watching all that unfold.

So getting the best deal for what you are selling is a trick. It's also an art, but you need a market first. Selling on eBay does not guarantee you'll dispose of your items quickly, but does give you a wide market to display them. Wholesaling them to B&H or KEH means it's done, and out of your hair. Unless even they reject them, and return the items to you. A reputable auction house in a large metropolitan area could do you well, as they will advertise your items. But you don't get all the money, because their costs need to be recovered (upwards of 40%), and if they ask for too high a buyers premium, it might constrain the enthusiasm of the bidders. So 13% to eBay/PayPal doesn't sound at all like a bad deal.

Then there are the flea markets. You have to pay for a table or booth space, and some states even force you to have a dealers license, depending on the circumstances (like if you rent a booth).

In other words, there are costs to every form of selling. You just have to decide what you are comfortable with having to absorb.

PF
 
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