Sporriegetta
Member
Hi there. I’ve just received a first surface gold mirror from Edmond optics to replace the mirrors in my Contax T and a Konica Pearl. (My two smaller format fave RF cameras). I need to resize split and glue them into their seats but am wondering what to use. I’ve tried a clear epoxy from JB weld but that seems to not set as firm as I expected. I’m wondering if there’s something better out there. Or maybe if I use a slightly different ratio of the two parts, maybe that would be better? Any experience would be very much appreciated.
Maybe more important is what not to use. No cyanoacrylates! Out gassing may ruin the optics.Hi there. I’ve just received a first surface gold mirror from Edmond optics to replace the mirrors in my Contax T and a Konica Pearl. (My two smaller format fave RF cameras). I need to resize split and glue them into their seats but am wondering what to use. I’ve tried a clear epoxy from JB weld but that seems to not set as firm as I expected. I’m wondering if there’s something better out there. Or maybe if I use a slightly different ratio of the two parts, maybe that would be better? Any experience would be very much appreciated.
I find a five minute epoxy or contact adhesive will do the job for most interior purposes. That said, I'm not normally after a flexible bond for a rangefinder mirror. I'll usually place it in its perch, first, to assess the basic alignment, but once that's confirmed, a small dab of epoxy will generally secure parts, fine. I'm not familiar with the JB Weld product you tried. My stand by for general camera optical fixing is Selleys Ultra Clear. It's strong, sets up in about five minutes, and dries clear. That last isn't always particularly important for just attaching items. But sometimes it can be useful in Eg. minimising the visibility of adhesive through the external viewfinder window.
bluesun267
Well-known
I'm in the process of trying to find a good glue alternative for situations like this myself. I am reluctant to go to an epoxy (like Selleys or JB Weld) because most of the glued items in a camera need to be cleanly removable at some future point should they need replacing again. I've been using Plio-bond for things like this but I find the smell absolutely unbearable so I'm in search of better solution. But Plio-bond is just the right consistency, hardness and dries relatively clear.
I bet somebody here has a better solution though.
I bet somebody here has a better solution though.
If you use an appropriate quantity of epoxy, and in the correct locations (Ie a couple of spots on the edges of a mirror or prism, not, on the other hand, coating the entire rear surface out of reach) then, should it be necessary to subsequently remove the item, it can usually be done without too much difficulty by scraping the epoxy off. If needed a dash of isopropyl or acetone can be used to weaken the bond. Contact adhesive can be successful also, of course. It just may not be nearly as long-lived as epoxy, but I suppose it's relative. I prefer to know that once fitted, a mirror or beam splitter isn't going to come adrift. The main points are that whatever product is used, it's reliable, and will not contaminate internal surfaces as it cures.I'm in the process of trying to find a good glue alternative for situations like this myself. I am reluctant to go to an epoxy (like Selleys or JB Weld) because most of the glued items in a camera need to be cleanly removable at some future point should they need replacing again. I've been using Plio-bond for things like this but I find the smell absolutely unbearable so I'm in search of better solution. But Plio-bond is just the right consistency, hardness and dries relatively clear.
I bet somebody here has a better solution though.
monopix
Cam repairer
I find Gem-Bond does almost everything. It's what I would use. And it can be removed. https://www.eimass.co.uk/rhinestone-...on-32424-p.asp
SyPat
Established
Any glue without solvent, they may ruin the reflecting surface.
The best thing in my opinion is to use the same lacquer than Leitz used.
The best thing in my opinion is to use the same lacquer than Leitz used.
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