The Helios-103 53/1.8 and Menopta 53/1.8 are classic Planar formula lenses for the Contax/Kiev cameras. With a little work, you can also use them on Nikon S-Mount cameras. These lenses are cheap- under $25 inclusive of international shipping. There are lots of them, most are near mint condition.
The quality of the machining has varied on the 12 or so that I've handled. I like the 1981 and 1982 Helios-103 the best, closely followed by the Menopta's. The 1984 and 1985 examples that I've handled required some filing of the flange and rear light baffle for a proper fit. Some to get to fit on a Nikon, and one to get to fit onto a Kiev. They all fit the Contax IIIa without problem. Go Figure.
They all have Shiny Aperture Blades, that can cause a problem with actual use. I've had them flare with strong backlit subjects, and with stray sunlight.
I've been asked about painting them to reduce the reflections. So I took my "worst" lens and gave it a try.
1) Remove the aperture ring. It is held in by three set screws. Just back them off, but you do not need to remove them. The aperture ring slips off, over the name ring.
2) You will see the set screw that holds the name ring in place. On my lenses, there were several holes, but only one had a set screw. Take it out, and remove the name ring. Just unscrew it by hand. The set screw is important to hold the name ring in place while you remove hoods and filters. Do not lose it.
3) The retaining ring for the front elements is now exposed. Use a spanner to remove the retaining ring. I always hold the spanner in place and turn the lens.
4) have a piece of lens paper ready to catch the first element. It comes out easily. Underneath it is a metal spacer and a cemented-pair lens group. I have to give the lenses a "rap" to get them loose. Again, have lens paper ready to catch them. Note the orientation of the metal spacer. It has a ridge cut on one side. You need to get it back correctly. Mark it with the Sharpie.
So, in order: Retaining ring; Front Optic; Metal Spacer; lens group.
5) The aperture blades are now accessible. I use a Sharpie- permanent marker felt tip pen- to blacken the blades. I stop them all the way down, 'paint them", and then open up halfway to finish it. Work the blades. I'm not going to worry to get a perfect finish. This is a cheese-wiz solution. Spray it on, tastes great.
6) Let the lens dry out and air out for ~ 1 Hour. I don't know why, just seems right. Cover it to keep dust out.
7) Time to re-assemble. Inspect closely for dust or strands of felt on the lens. I got carried away once and had to pull some strands out using tweezers. Put the cemented pair back in place, use the lens cleaning paper to do so. Be sure to blow it with the air bulb to get any dust off of it. Also, a good time to clean it with lens cleaner. Put the metal spacer in "the correct way", and push it in place. This group is a tight fit, and the metal ring needs to go in straight.
8) Put the front element in place, again cleaning it and blowing it off. Use the lens cleaning paper to get it into place, holding it by the edges. Do not turn the lens upside down and lower it to the front element because the metal ring will fall out and go "whack" on the front element.
Done.
The quality of the machining has varied on the 12 or so that I've handled. I like the 1981 and 1982 Helios-103 the best, closely followed by the Menopta's. The 1984 and 1985 examples that I've handled required some filing of the flange and rear light baffle for a proper fit. Some to get to fit on a Nikon, and one to get to fit onto a Kiev. They all fit the Contax IIIa without problem. Go Figure.
They all have Shiny Aperture Blades, that can cause a problem with actual use. I've had them flare with strong backlit subjects, and with stray sunlight.
I've been asked about painting them to reduce the reflections. So I took my "worst" lens and gave it a try.
1) Remove the aperture ring. It is held in by three set screws. Just back them off, but you do not need to remove them. The aperture ring slips off, over the name ring.
2) You will see the set screw that holds the name ring in place. On my lenses, there were several holes, but only one had a set screw. Take it out, and remove the name ring. Just unscrew it by hand. The set screw is important to hold the name ring in place while you remove hoods and filters. Do not lose it.
3) The retaining ring for the front elements is now exposed. Use a spanner to remove the retaining ring. I always hold the spanner in place and turn the lens.
4) have a piece of lens paper ready to catch the first element. It comes out easily. Underneath it is a metal spacer and a cemented-pair lens group. I have to give the lenses a "rap" to get them loose. Again, have lens paper ready to catch them. Note the orientation of the metal spacer. It has a ridge cut on one side. You need to get it back correctly. Mark it with the Sharpie.
So, in order: Retaining ring; Front Optic; Metal Spacer; lens group.
5) The aperture blades are now accessible. I use a Sharpie- permanent marker felt tip pen- to blacken the blades. I stop them all the way down, 'paint them", and then open up halfway to finish it. Work the blades. I'm not going to worry to get a perfect finish. This is a cheese-wiz solution. Spray it on, tastes great.
6) Let the lens dry out and air out for ~ 1 Hour. I don't know why, just seems right. Cover it to keep dust out.
7) Time to re-assemble. Inspect closely for dust or strands of felt on the lens. I got carried away once and had to pull some strands out using tweezers. Put the cemented pair back in place, use the lens cleaning paper to do so. Be sure to blow it with the air bulb to get any dust off of it. Also, a good time to clean it with lens cleaner. Put the metal spacer in "the correct way", and push it in place. This group is a tight fit, and the metal ring needs to go in straight.
8) Put the front element in place, again cleaning it and blowing it off. Use the lens cleaning paper to get it into place, holding it by the edges. Do not turn the lens upside down and lower it to the front element because the metal ring will fall out and go "whack" on the front element.
Done.
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