enasniearth
Well-known
I purchased an m4 ,
the edges of the vulcanite body cover are loose and pieces want to break off .
any recommendations on what glue to use ?
the edges of the vulcanite body cover are loose and pieces want to break off .
any recommendations on what glue to use ?
skucera
Well-known
I can think of several glues NOT to use, like 3M weatherstrip adhesive or superglue. I have no recommendation, but my advice would be to use one that can be removed later should you wish to put on a new Vulcanite or leather skin. Research carefully.
Scott
Scott
Crazy Fedya
Well-known
I have used Weldwood contact cement from hardware store to glue down vulcanite on my M4, also for leather/leatherette on several vintage cameras. Works well.
dave_
Established
Im not sure that glue alone will do the trick. My local Leica guy fixed the vulcanite on some of my cameras and I know he heats it in some way. Theres prolly someone else here who knows more though.. best of luck with it. Vulcanite is always better than some replacement leatherette.
I purchased an m4 ,
the edges of the vulcanite body cover are loose and pieces want to break off .
any recommendations on what glue to use ?
peterm1
Veteran
I had to glue my vulcanite several years ago and think I did use superglue (it is soluble in acetone if it needs removing later - if the vulcanite is being removed anyway at that time, some acetone is not going to harm it, you just need to keep it out of the camera body). My vulcanite had lifted from the shell of the body and this left a space which could be exploited by putting a few drops into the space between. If you have a gap too then I think you need some glue that will fill it so a highly liquid glue (like PVA glue) is not going to work. Also a slightly thicker, semi liquid glue will not flow into areas you do not want it. But it depends upon the size of the area - mine was quite small. The attraction of superglue is that it flows but with care can be controlled, sets hard and has a small nozzle to control the positioning and quantity. But there are others like this available in hardware stores. One that comes to mind in Australia (my home) is called Tarzans Grip. It may be available in other countries too. Another option is I found some craft glue which smells of some kind of hydrocarbon solvent (much like Tarzans Grip) and is semi liquid and flowing. That would work as well. Also model stores (i.e. those that sell model planes etc) have a similar plastic glue with the same smell which should work too. It comes in a small bottle with a long very thin nozzle that would be perfect for the job.
Apart from a camera with problematic vulcanite, I also had an old 90mm Elmar f4 which has vulcanite around the base of the lens and a small part of it had broken away and been lost. It was only a tiny piece so in that case I used some black bituminous roofing compound (again from the hardware store) to apply a small dob of the compound which I reworked to look like the grain on the vulcanite. It took a week or two to set but when it did it was near invisible being made from basically the same material as vulcanite. Keep this in mind if you do lose some vulcanite.
Apart from a camera with problematic vulcanite, I also had an old 90mm Elmar f4 which has vulcanite around the base of the lens and a small part of it had broken away and been lost. It was only a tiny piece so in that case I used some black bituminous roofing compound (again from the hardware store) to apply a small dob of the compound which I reworked to look like the grain on the vulcanite. It took a week or two to set but when it did it was near invisible being made from basically the same material as vulcanite. Keep this in mind if you do lose some vulcanite.
_goodtimez
Well-known
As vulcanite on the M4 is not just a sticker like mdern converings, I'm just removing small pieces coming off in the corners and edges and apply black polyurethane sealant instead.
Archlich
Well-known
I have been using Pliobond for years per suggestions made during previous discussions on RFF. It's versatile, reliable and removable. Nice stuff.
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I would use the same glue I use for reglueing leatherette; a rubber cement type.
Locallly they sell a brand called "Bison Kit" a rubber cement that remains somewhat pliable when dry and isn't too hard to remove if the need arrises.
I think Shoe Goo is a compareable US brand.
Of course if the vulcanite is too far gone, I'd consider reskinning it as suggested by Scott (Skucera) above.
Locallly they sell a brand called "Bison Kit" a rubber cement that remains somewhat pliable when dry and isn't too hard to remove if the need arrises.
I think Shoe Goo is a compareable US brand.
Of course if the vulcanite is too far gone, I'd consider reskinning it as suggested by Scott (Skucera) above.
Iestrada
Well-known
I have used superglue as well. The back door on my M2 was badly chipped when purchased. I had Youxin CLA it. He shipped it back with some chips of vulcanite (upon request). Took my time with it pieced it together carefully to fill in the damaged part. I then used a lit matched held against the repaired part and it improved the blending of the old with the "new". Very pleased with it.
Put on a new cover on it from hugostudio.com. Restoration leather/Recovery texture. Matches the original. Looks much better than any repair.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
As vulcanite on the M4 is not just a sticker like mdern converings, I'm just removing small pieces coming off in the corners and edges and apply black polyurethane sealant instead.
Another product to use along the same lines: I've used "Liquid Electrical Tape." I daub it into corners and small chipped areas and let it sit until it sets. I get it in Home Depot.
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