Removing the top plate from a Nikon FG

[jaredangle]

I've got a Nikon FG with a stuck film counter wheel... meter won't turn on because the counter never reaches frame #1 no matter how much you wind on after loading. Problem is, I can't get the top plate off of the camera. Yes, I can get the screws out, but can't figure out how to disengage the winder, etc. I did remove the film rewind crank, however (one step to removing the top plate). Can anyone walk me through how to remove the top plate in its entirety? Every repair guide I look up online says "Remove the top plate, IT'S EASY!" and then skips straight to how to reset the film counter, which is useless if I can't remove the top plate.

One important caveat - I absentmindedly closed the rear door on the camera after removing the rewind crank, so I can't re-open it now because it's what opens the door. Does anyone know how to fix that? I feel so unintelligent here.

 

[nobbylon]

I've never done an FG but it can't be too hard. Here's how I would do.

Get yourself an old bicycle rubber innertube and cut a piece to fit over the end of a wooden dowel the same size dia as the retaining ring around the shutter release.
With moderate down force use your improvised rubber dolly to unscrew the retaining ring Anti clockwise. Be carefull because if it's similar to the F3 i did, a spring and the release button will jump out. Also, and this is a guess, there will be a cylindrical collar on the bottom of the release button shaft so watch for that.
You should now be able to see how to remove the winder, maybe it just lifts off or maybe like the F3 it is held on by small screws. Then just follow your instincts on other removal of parts. Take lots of digi photos close up so you have reference to rebuild.
As far as the back release goes, if you cant pull the shaft upward and i'm presuming its dropped into the body, get a length of brazing rod or strong wire and form a long hook to slide in through the shaft hole from the top. get the hook part just on the lip of the shaft and lift and the back should release.

 

[jaredangle]

As far as the back release goes

I just got the back open by using pliers to straighten out a barbed fishing hook, turning it into something more like a dental probe, which easily reached into the opening and popped the back release. So that's taken care of now.

Unfortunately, my car is snowed in so I can't go to the store to get a hold of a bicycle tire tube. Know of any alternate ways?

 

[nobbylon]

You could use a rubber eraser to do the same job. I've managed with some advance retaining rings like this. I've also used the sole of a training shoe! As long as the rubber is sticky enough it will work, just a question of applying enough downward pressure. The retaining collars are usually not on very tight unlike Leica M's which are and require flexiclamps to remove.

 

[sevo]

Nikons until the AF age usually are easy to take apart except for one stumbling block - you usually need a special tool to unscrew the slotted retaining ring hidden between release collar and release. Some tool sizes can still be bought (it is not that long that the F3 was EOLed, and the FM3A should still be supported), or you can make your own from a bit of brass tubing of the right diameter.

 

[former member]

Before you take off the top plate: open the back and look for the mechanical switch that is the reset function. Make sure that it is moving freely and is not stuck. Sometimes deteriorating light seals turn to goo and mess it up. I cleaned mine with alchohol, did wonders. If it moves freely, something else is wrong. Mine was an easy fix.

 

[Ljós]

Well, I can't chime in with repair tips, but want to cheer you up by saying that the FG is a nice and capable camera. I had (and still have, it is semi-retired now) its lesser sibling, the FG-20 for many, many years, and it served me well.
So here is cheering you get it working again!

All the best, Ljós

 

[nobbylon]

Before you take off the top plate: open the back and look for the mechanical switch that is the reset function. Make sure that it is moving freely and is not stuck. Sometimes deteriorating light seals turn to goo and mess it up. I cleaned mine with alchohol, did wonders. If it moves freely, something else is wrong. Mine was an easy fix.

This was the exact problem on one of my F3's Brian. Unfortunately the steel button had seized in the alloy chassis and it was necessary to take the wind head off to give enough room for me to free it with gentle tapping on the top hat from inside. It was then just a question of resoldering the 4 wires on the release head. It was a nightmare job but eventually I managed it.

 

[nobbylon]

Nikons until the AF age usually are easy to take apart except for one stumbling block - you usually need a special tool to unscrew the slotted retaining ring hidden between release collar and release. Some tool sizes can still be bought (it is not that long that the F3 was EOLed, and the FM3A should still be supported), or you can make your own from a bit of brass tubing of the right diameter.

I made my own tool for these type rings by using a pair of metal eye brow tweezers, filing the ends to flat blade screw driver shapes and then twisting these ends 90 deg with pliers. The nice thing about using tweezers is that you can open and close for a varity of diameter rings.