Replacing film advance lever

[AusDLK]

I have always swapped the film advance levers on M6 and M7 cameras with the M3/MP style levers.

An M3/MP lever (all metal) can be directly installed on an M6/M6TTL with no problem.

This is not true for an M7. Leica offers a M3/MP style lever that fits an M7 but it is slightly different -- an incompatible with the earlier cameras.

 

[gregg]

I just received two advance levers for my M6 cameras from DAG. The silver is an M3 replacement lever, the black is an MP style lever. You can see the MP style is a bit longer and almost touches the hot shoe. Other than that they feel great on the cameras. I bought the .625" (15.9mm) Flexiclamp from www.micro-tools.com and removal/replacement of the retaining ring was simple. No need to send to a repair shop for this modification.

Silver M6 with M3 style lever:


Black M6 with MP style lever:

 

[colyn]

OK...
I ordered a black M3 lever for my M6.
Time to break out the flexiclamps...

 

[Stu W]

Gregg, the chrome one looks like a double stroke and the black a single stroke. Stu

 

[HuubL]

My two M4s. Metal levers just look more, ehh... less plasticy🙂

 

[ywenz]

Stu: is that really indeed the difference? That the single stroke lever is longer than the double stroke? The reason why I ask is because my M6 has the black chrome rubbed off right underneath the film lever. The shorter lever will not cover the bare metal in it's retracted position. The longer lever will. I would need the longer lever for my M6.. Can I just specify that I want the single stroke lever?

 

[gregg]

I'm not sure about SS vs. DS length - Don (DAG) said I could have either size in silver or black and I got one of each. We had another exchange going on so I sent the longer (black) lever back for a replacement with the shorter. I found it easier to grab the knurled part with it being partially exposed. Individual tastes will vary...

Don's descriptions of the items I received were that the silver (short) was an M3 style and the black (long) was an MP style.

 

[Pablito]

In defense of the standard M6 / M4 wind lever, many people find this articulated lever more ergonomic and comfortable than the admittedly nicer looking all metal lever. My fear was always that the plastic part would break off but it has not happened to either of my M6s in 10 years. I'll spend the money for a new wind lever when one of them breaks!!!

 

[teddo]

Dear Gregg,

I am in the same situation as you do. I have M6 classic and have already ordered from DAG the MP advance lever to replace the original lever. I like it a lot. However, the following problem occurs. I notice that the inner part of the MP lever always hit and, as a result, rub off the shutter speed dial when you advance and then release the lever.

I would like to ask you if you have faced this problem. If yes, what do you do? Awaiting for your response.

Regards,
Watha

 

[suckerpunch]

i love MODS

i love MODS

ok..so now the new lever is on....
i want to switch the plastic frame preview lever with a black metal one...anyone have suggestions for this!?..i don't even see where the lever is attached...this one may be too complicated...

 

[ywenz]

So any updates from users who has replaced the articulated lever with the all metal one? Does the metal one really scratch the shutter dial on the M6?

 

[tblanston]

So any updates from users who has replaced the articulated lever with the all metal one? Does the metal one really scratch the shutter dial on the M6?

I have an m3 style winder on my m6ttl and the winder does make contact with my speed dial. It's necessary to pull the winder out a tad to operate the dial smoothly. When advancing the frame, the lever comes to rest at a position that is decently distanced from the body, though. So if you are making a lot of successive shots there is no need to keep pulling it back out or anything.

It should also be noted that the situation is just the same on my m2. I guess you could consider this a con to the solid style winder. It doesn't bother me at all, personally. I felt that the plastic thing was terrible.

 

[Xmas]

The lever will ding the shutter speed selector if you let it go... on M2 certaintly. Useful to indicate what speeds you use!

Noel

 

[JNewell]

In defense of the standard M6 / M4 wind lever, many people find this articulated lever more ergonomic and comfortable than the admittedly nicer looking all metal lever. My fear was always that the plastic part would break off but it has not happened to either of my M6s in 10 years. I'll spend the money for a new wind lever when one of them breaks!!!

This whole concept puzzles me, in a low-key and friendly way. I bought my first M3 in 1972 (used). Woulda just about died for an M4 but I was a student and no way was there cash for an M4. I thought the M4 wind lever was so much more convenient, and I liked the looks of the M4 ST and PV levers better, too. I still like the M4-style levers better and though I still have that M3 and wouldn't swap its levers out, I wouldn't think about retrofitting M3/M2 levers on the M6s or M5! 🙂

In the end, it's purely personal preference and I think it's cool that folks swap the new for the old, but I like the "new" 1967 levers better!

 

[Ken Ford]

So any updates from users who has replaced the articulated lever with the all metal one? Does the metal one really scratch the shutter dial on the M6?

I've had a solid lever on my M6 for a year now, and it does touch the speed dial when stowed - but no marks or dings that I can see.

 

[HuubL]

So any updates from users who has replaced the articulated lever with the all metal one? Does the metal one really scratch the shutter dial on the M6?

Here's a typical ding in the speed dial of my all metal levers M4. It should be noted that the camera has had the metal levers since I remember coming into the lab in the early 19-seventies. It was mostly used on a copy stand for documentary purposes and frequently set at 1 sec (causing the ding below 4). Although it doesn't look that way, it was heavily used. With an average of one roll a day for 200 days a year during 25 years it would amount to 175000 actuations. There are lesser dings at other slow speeds.

 

[Ken Ford]

Here's a typical ding in the speed dial of my all metal levers M4. It should be noted that the camera has had the metal levers since I remember coming into the lab in the early 19-seventies. It was mostly used on a copy stand for documentary purposes and frequently set at 1 sec (causing the ding below 4). Although it doesn't look that way, it was heavily used. With an average of one roll a day for 200 days a year during 25 years it would amount to 175000 actuations. There are lesser dings at other slow speeds.

I've never noticed the differences between an M6 shutter speed dial and the one on an M3 before this! The M6 dial doesn't have the "skirt" of the M3, it's serrated top to bottom. It could well be that I haven't used my M6 enough to cause the wear.

 

[Xmas]

Ken

Some people release the lever at full extent, if the lever has no damping, it will land on the M2 shutter dial, my M2 had a new dial, new wind mechanism, new lever, from Leitz Luton, so the damage may occur on any M2.

Noel

 

[hth]

The lever on my M2 does not make contact with the shutter dial, it hits the flash shoe.

/Håkan

 

[gregg]

I had the longer lever and it hit the hot shoe - the shorter version I now use hits the speed dial. 50 rolls since I have installed it and no noticable wear at the usual point of contact - most shots at 1/30, 1/60, 1/125.