dave lackey
Veteran
Starting another documentary and I really NEED to learn to process my own film...B/W. Got the equipment but need a workshop or two to learn how to process film.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as it would cut costs considerably.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as it would cut costs considerably.
zauhar
Veteran
Hey Dave, although you will be told this ad nauseum, it is easy to get started. I learned to do a decent job after the first few tries.
The fussiest thing is getting the film loaded on the reels. As a relative beginner, my advice is the samigon tank, the reels work well provided they are dry (none of the reels want to work if they have the slightest moisture, might be a problem where you live). Also, avoid the changing bag if you can, unless you have a really big one. I ditched that after I discovered a really dark corner of my basement.
The nice thing about rff is that there is no end of advice, helpful and otherwise!
Randy
The fussiest thing is getting the film loaded on the reels. As a relative beginner, my advice is the samigon tank, the reels work well provided they are dry (none of the reels want to work if they have the slightest moisture, might be a problem where you live). Also, avoid the changing bag if you can, unless you have a really big one. I ditched that after I discovered a really dark corner of my basement.
The nice thing about rff is that there is no end of advice, helpful and otherwise!
Randy
gb hill
Veteran
Good tutorials on YouTube but why don't you see David, (Atlcruiser). He will show you how simple it is. I wish I lived near him. I'd like some tutorial on printing. He's got the coolest darkroom. Just remember practice, practice, practice.
Don't give it a second thought, just jump in and do it. If you can sit in with someone else, great, but really, just do it.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Dear Dave,
No, you don't need a workshop. All you need is a tiny amount of practice. Buy the chemicals and 3-5 films -- shoot junk, any old pics, along with a few pics of Linda (so you'll care). My first pic with a new camera/lens/film is always Frances. A handful of films is as long as it'll take to learn how to be better than 99% of affordable commercial labs. You may find this useful: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how process 35-120.html.
Cheers,
R.
No, you don't need a workshop. All you need is a tiny amount of practice. Buy the chemicals and 3-5 films -- shoot junk, any old pics, along with a few pics of Linda (so you'll care). My first pic with a new camera/lens/film is always Frances. A handful of films is as long as it'll take to learn how to be better than 99% of affordable commercial labs. You may find this useful: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how process 35-120.html.
Cheers,
R.
Thardy
Veteran
Pssst. Do yourself a big favor and get some foolproof Samigon reels. They are sold at BHphoto. I tried to prepare my daughter (16 at the time) for the difficulty of film loading when she took her photo class 3 years ago. She came home after the first day and told me about these easy load reels. They make even loading 120 film easy.
Good luck.
http://400tx.blogspot.com/2006/06/fool-proof-samigon-reel.html
Good luck.
http://400tx.blogspot.com/2006/06/fool-proof-samigon-reel.html
back alley
IMAGES
developing film is more science than art, follow the rules, time & temp and you will be fine.
loading the reels is the hardest part.
i suggest you practice while watching tv and then try in the dark (with a dummy roll of course).
loading the reels is the hardest part.
i suggest you practice while watching tv and then try in the dark (with a dummy roll of course).
paulfish4570
Veteran
you're getting some good advice ...
zauhar
Veteran
One thing I forgot - if you have an iPhone, get the Devchart app. It will let you pick film and iso, developer, will even adjust for temperature. Then just slavishly do what it says. It times every phase of development, tells you when to agitate.
Randy
Randy
dave lackey
Veteran
Thanks everybody for all the quick responses.
I have the equipment but no chemicals. Since I primarily use TriX and Ilford Delta 100, what chemicals should I get?
I have the equipment but no chemicals. Since I primarily use TriX and Ilford Delta 100, what chemicals should I get?
paulfish4570
Veteran
you know i like d-76 1+1, and tmax 1+9.
less fuss and muss with the tmax because it is liquid. that is what i learned with, at the factory recommended solution of 1+4. 1+9 gives you more time and, i think, a longer tonal range.
as for practicing loading a reel, just buy a roll of cheap walgreens film and don't even shoot it. just pop the end cap and get the film ...
less fuss and muss with the tmax because it is liquid. that is what i learned with, at the factory recommended solution of 1+4. 1+9 gives you more time and, i think, a longer tonal range.
as for practicing loading a reel, just buy a roll of cheap walgreens film and don't even shoot it. just pop the end cap and get the film ...
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sanmich
Veteran
Dave
I would start with Rodinal and any fix, for a start.
As everybody else said, it's not very complicated.
It's not THAT simple either (if you do it from reading only).
Quite a few things can go wrong.
Would you like us to meet on Skype so I can try to help you with your first try?
I would start with Rodinal and any fix, for a start.
As everybody else said, it's not very complicated.
It's not THAT simple either (if you do it from reading only).
Quite a few things can go wrong.
Would you like us to meet on Skype so I can try to help you with your first try?
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Drive to Ft. Wayne and I'll teach you. Its easy though, you can probably do it yourself with some practice like everyone else is saying. I'd follow Paul's advice on chemicals. D-76 1+1 or Tmax Developer. Check out my developing time chart, all tested times that I use.
andredossantos
Well-known
The best advice I can give is ONLY BUY QUALITY STAINLESS STEEL REELS! This will make your life much much easier. Loading the reels is really the only tricky part and it can be a total b@tch if your using crappy reels. The stainless steel Hewes reels are tops (a bit pricy but worth it).
IMO, and this may be controversial, the best developer to get started with is Diafine. You don't have to worry about dilutions, temp, or time and this allows one to be sloppy as you learn. The "downside" is you must develop the films at the set ISO's which are usually about a stop over box speed. Another advantage is you can develop different films all in the same tank. Once you have all the movements down then you can move on to other more "complicated" chemicals which require set temps, etc.
IMO, and this may be controversial, the best developer to get started with is Diafine. You don't have to worry about dilutions, temp, or time and this allows one to be sloppy as you learn. The "downside" is you must develop the films at the set ISO's which are usually about a stop over box speed. Another advantage is you can develop different films all in the same tank. Once you have all the movements down then you can move on to other more "complicated" chemicals which require set temps, etc.
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ChrisN
Striving
gb hill
Veteran
How much do you shoot? If you shoot a roll every week or two then you might want to consider HC-110. You can use it one shot & in syrup form it will last for a long time.
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
Roger Hicks
Veteran
zauhar
Veteran
Dave, I know everyone likes the steel reels, but I would repeat my previous message to get the Samigon plastic reels (someone else said that too). I know the steel reels I have are crappy, but honestly I could barely get a roll loaded in the LIGHT. I will try the steel reels again, as the moisture problem with the plastic is really irritating, but no way can I start with them.
Regarding developers, for Tri-X I have tried D76 1:1 and Rodinal 1:50. My experience is not that broad at this point, but I have to say that Rodinal ROCKS. I may be fooling myself, but the negatives look like they're vibrating.
Randy
Regarding developers, for Tri-X I have tried D76 1:1 and Rodinal 1:50. My experience is not that broad at this point, but I have to say that Rodinal ROCKS. I may be fooling myself, but the negatives look like they're vibrating.
Randy
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Print the Rodinal negs before you get too excited. They print with a different tonality than other developers. It works beautifully for some things, not so for others. The look of the negs is like you describe, but the prints are not always like that. Rodinal is one of my mainstay developers, but its not amazing for a lot of subjects and generally I prefer D76 for Tri-X.
zauhar
Veteran
Point taken, I have been looking at scans, not prints.
I will be printing some recent shots this week, see how I feel after that.
Randy