Retina 1a and focusing

[TheHub]

Hi

I just picked up a Retina 1a on auction last night and am awaiting delivery of it 🙂 I've been reading all I can but one thing is still unclear to me - focusing. The one I'm getting is a stock 1a with nothing attached, so I'm guessing the focusing system is guesstimate? Is it just like the Rollei 35 - guess the distance or use hyperfocal?

Thanks for any help!

 

[JMP]

Yes, the Retina 1a is scale focus/guess focus. I believe the 1a has a depth of field scale which helps a lot with this type of focus.

 

[KoNickon]

Yes, it does -- the depth of field and distance scales are very easy to read.

 

[TheHub]

Thanks for the quick replies!

I think I made a mistake in choosing one then 🙁

Using (fighting with, rather) a Rollei 35 and the sheer disappointment of having 36 blurry photos (even when using hyper-focal) come back has instilled a hatred/phobia of guesstimate focusing systems in me 🙁

I'm wondering if the Retina is any easier to use than the Rollei 35?

 

[VictorM.]

"Using (fighting with, rather) a Rollei 35 and the sheer disappointment of having 36 blurry photos (even when using hyper-focal) come back has instilled a hatred/phobia of guesstimate focusing systems in me"

Two solutions: First, use fast film and stop down; second, use an accessory rangefinder; third, buy a IIa. Oh, that's three. No extra charge.

 

[TheHub]

Thanks for the advice 🙂

If I can find an accessory rangefinder I'll definitely get one. I don't think they're plentiful here in Japan however ...

 

[VictorM.]

If you're comfortable with auctions, here's just one example: http://cgi.ebay.ca/SAYMON-BROWN-US-...0099212204QQcategoryZ4702QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Be sure to ask the seller if the two images are bright and easily seen. Some brands to look for: Voigtlander, Telex, Walz, Pollux, Hugo Meyer, Heydes, etc. Be sure the scale, feet or metres, is what matches the focusing on your camera.

Here's my selection (the Walz is best) and the Walz on my Ia:

 

[TheHub]

Ah, so the rangefinder doesn't have to be from Kodak? That should make it easier to find one then. Thanks!

 

[TheHub]

I managed to get a range finder (they are very hard to find here.) It's an old Dollond one, but I noticed that the mount is round. The Retina's mount is square - is this going to be a problem?

 

[VictorM.]

The round foot should be OK- it looks like there's a locking nut immediately above it. The foot looks a little low to fit the Ia without hitting the rewind knob. You will need to have both the camera and rangefinder together to see if it fits.

 

[TheHub]

Thanks for all the replies, this forum has been extremely helpful :angel:

A few issues:

> the right side end cap does bump into the rewind lever. I'm thinking of taking it off and taping over it with electrical tape (to keep dust out.)

> the range finder is in feet but the lens appears to be metric. I've got a converter program for Palm if push comes to shove.



A few questions:

> On the lens there is a dot under 2.8 on the right side. What is that for?

> Again on the lens, the infinity symbol all the way to the right- can I line that up with f/2.8, 5.6, 8, 11 & 16 to do hyperfocal?

> Once more on the lens, there is a dot between 2.5 & 3 and another right next to 10. Are those the ones mentioned in this post here?

> The dial on top for film speed is in German. I though these cameras were sold in the US? I'm guessing since mine's metric it was sold in Germany?

 

[oscroft]

> the range finder is in feet but the lens appears to be metric. I've got a converter program for Palm if push comes to shove

Just dividing by 3 should be a good enough approximation most of the time.

 

[bkrystad]

> The dial on top for film speed is in German. I though these cameras were sold in the US? I'm guessing since mine's metric it was sold in Germany?

My understanding was that Retinas imported to the US got Schneider lenses and distance in feet. Outside the US, they got Rodenstock lenses and distance in meters. Goes for text in places on the camera, too.

 

[VictorM.]

Thanks for all the replies, this forum has been extremely helpful :angel:

A few issues:

> the right side end cap does bump into the rewind lever. I'm thinking of taking it off and taping over it with electrical tape (to keep dust out.)

> the range finder is in feet but the lens appears to be metric. I've got a converter program for Palm if push comes to shove.



A few questions:

> On the lens there is a dot under 2.8 on the right side. What is that for?

That's the infrared focus mark. If you have IR film, use this mark to set the focus instead of the large mark in the centre.

> Again on the lens, the infinity symbol all the way to the right- can I line that up with f/2.8, 5.6, 8, 11 & 16 to do hyperfocal?

Yes. That's how hyperfocal works. But the Retina's depth of field scale is very optimistic-use one or two stops larger than you have set.

> Once more on the lens, there is a dot between 2.5 & 3 and another right next to 10. Are those the ones mentioned in this post here?

Correct again. But yours is reading in metres.

> The dial on top for film speed is in German. I though these cameras were sold in the US? I'm guessing since mine's metric it was sold in Germany?

Or anywhere else in Europe and Japan.

Check out the Retina section here: http://kodak.3106.net/ You can even down load the entire Retina Guide!

 

[TheHub]

I ran a quick $1.50 roll of Konica film through it and I was REALLY impressed with the results. This seems to be quite an easy camera to work with (fingers crossed though, just in case.)

Thanks for everyone's help!

http://life-electronic.net/blog/?p=191

 

[faciboch]

Retina 1, 1a focusing

Retina 1, 1a focusing

Hello;
I'm new to the forum and saw your question about focusing the Reting 1a. I have several 1's and the instruction manual gives this piece of advice: Use zone focusing. You'll notice the on the focusing ring where the distances are given in meters that there are two tiny circles by the 10 meter mark and approximately between the 2.5 and 3 meter mark. When the focusing ring is adjusted to the 10 meter mark, everything out past 10 meters should be in focus. The depth of scale dial will tell you specifically what is in focus at what f-stops. The mark between 2.5 and 3 does the same thing for everything closer than ~3 meters. I hope this hasn't been repitive and that it was helpful. Of course I did the same thing you did and bought an auxilliary rangefinder!

Good luck, I just love these little camerasS

Frank

 

[Spider67]

Hi,
If you want to have a meter that matches the Ia closely in appearance then look for a WATAMETER the have the same look as the Reinta Ia it looks as if they were made especially for them!
Enjoy youir camera!
Best Regards

 

[Stanton]

I have a 1a and a 1b, and some IIs, and a IIa and a IIc. All are good, but I really like sticking the Ia or Ib in a pocket. Without the rangefinder, I don't worry about knocking something out of alignment. I find using the non-rangefinders outside with 400 ISO print film and the depth of field scale, I rarely have something look out of focus. Enjoy your Retina. Dave

 

[rbiemer]

2 months late to this, sorry!
But yes. The difference being that your 1a is metric and mine is in feet.
Rob

> Once more on the lens, there is a dot between 2.5 & 3 and another right next to 10. Are those the ones mentioned in this post here?

 

[TheHub]

Thanks for the replies. 🙂
I ended up never once using the external rangefinder, and still all my photos have been perfectly in focus. I was really worried at the beginning, but the markings are so easy to use, this camera has been a cinch. A little too heavy for my pocket, but a great camera none the less 😉