Lauffray
Invisible Cities
I've been recently thinking about trying out film photography after a few years with digital (SLR). I've been reading around, and I just need to hear the input of experienced RF users on this, beside the classic RF vs SLR pro-cons table which I can find pretty much anywhere.
I shoot mostly street photography, and the reasons I'm considering a RF are mostly because it's small and portable, so I can take it out more often, and that it's quiet and discreet, which is relevant to my type of shooting.
Thanks !
I shoot mostly street photography, and the reasons I'm considering a RF are mostly because it's small and portable, so I can take it out more often, and that it's quiet and discreet, which is relevant to my type of shooting.
Thanks !
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
Do you have a budget? Baseline rangefinder Yashica GSN, under $100. IMHO Leica M6 Classic with a 35mm summicron is optimum. There are many opinions. If you are going out on the street on quiet days a rangefinder is best but on days where there is much excitement i.e. a demonstration any camera will do fine.
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
Im into RF, dont like to draw attention with a bigger camera. RF makes travelling easier as well. If you're in tourist areas this is one thing, but if as a street shooter you go off the beaten path, the RF is the best way to go.
What really closed the deal for me years ago, aside portabilty, was the RF focusing provided fast and accurate focusing.
What really closed the deal for me years ago, aside portabilty, was the RF focusing provided fast and accurate focusing.
Jason Sprenger
Well-known
For street photography, I prefer a camera with auto-exposure. I use and like the Zeiss Ikon or a Bessa R2a.
I have used a metered Bessa R, but found the meter display kind of distracting in a spontaneous and candid situation. However, I really like the meter display in that camera for other situations.
An un-metered camera also can work for me when I carry a separate meter and check it occasionally as the light changes. I've done such with a Leica M2.
For street photos, I prefer to use a 50mm lens as not to overly intrude upon the scene I'm capturing. However, some prefer to be closer and use wider lenses like 35's, 28's or even wider. The focal length that you use with your SLR can be your guide.
f2.8 lenses can handle most outdoor situations and are available in most focal lengths. In 35mm and 50mm, f2 is kind of a sweet spot in terms of performance, speed and size. Whereas f1.4 and faster lenses are for when the camera comes with you into the gloom.
I find ISO 400 film in either color or black-white to the most flexible in terms of going from interiors or deep shadow to bright sunlight. Tri-X is traditional, but I'm using more Tmax 400 and Porta 400NC these days.
I have used a metered Bessa R, but found the meter display kind of distracting in a spontaneous and candid situation. However, I really like the meter display in that camera for other situations.
An un-metered camera also can work for me when I carry a separate meter and check it occasionally as the light changes. I've done such with a Leica M2.
For street photos, I prefer to use a 50mm lens as not to overly intrude upon the scene I'm capturing. However, some prefer to be closer and use wider lenses like 35's, 28's or even wider. The focal length that you use with your SLR can be your guide.
f2.8 lenses can handle most outdoor situations and are available in most focal lengths. In 35mm and 50mm, f2 is kind of a sweet spot in terms of performance, speed and size. Whereas f1.4 and faster lenses are for when the camera comes with you into the gloom.
I find ISO 400 film in either color or black-white to the most flexible in terms of going from interiors or deep shadow to bright sunlight. Tri-X is traditional, but I'm using more Tmax 400 and Porta 400NC these days.
-doomed-
film is exciting
I started with a Canonet QL-17 GIII , its great way to get into RF .
Hell,any fixed lense RF is a good way to give it a shot. I'm torn on selling mine or keeping it , but they can be had on the cheap in good shape . Now I have an R2A and a few lenses , the canonet was a great starter though.
Hell,any fixed lense RF is a good way to give it a shot. I'm torn on selling mine or keeping it , but they can be had on the cheap in good shape . Now I have an R2A and a few lenses , the canonet was a great starter though.
kshapero
South Florida Man
I started in 1976 with a Rollei 35s. Now where is that thing?
Lauffray
Invisible Cities
So i've finally settled down on a Bessa R3M
The only thing that's bothering me is the absence of shutter lock, since i carry my camera all the time with me i don't want to have it shooting the inside of my bag
any known tricks/workarounds? does it even shoot if the lens is collapsed in?
Also i don't want to get the R3A because i don't like depending on batteries
The only thing that's bothering me is the absence of shutter lock, since i carry my camera all the time with me i don't want to have it shooting the inside of my bag
any known tricks/workarounds? does it even shoot if the lens is collapsed in?
Also i don't want to get the R3A because i don't like depending on batteries
Starburst
Member
Well then you need a Rangefinder. I went for a Kodak Retina IIa, great little camera that cost me 50 €. Hyperfocal distance is your friend in Street photography. Sunny 16 as well, personally I get better results with sunny 16 in Street photography (where speed matters) instead of relying on a light meter. Thats a matter of preference ethough.
kshapero
South Florida Man
not really a problem in real life.
does it even shoot if the lens is collapsed in? no relevance.
ItsReallyDarren
That's really me
Cock the shutter when you want to take a picture. Leave it that way until you want to take another picture.
ruby.monkey
Veteran
I have to ask - when was the last time you had a problem finding spare SR44s? My R3A gets fairly heavy use but seems to go at least a year per set of batteries. It gives plenty of warning when the batteries are running low, and I always have a back-up pair or two to hand. The R3A gives you everything the R3M does, plus a shutter release lock, autoexposure when you want it, and one of the best exposure compensation controls I've seen on any camera.
kshapero
South Florida Man
Actually the R3M (I've owned both) does have one advantage; that is everything you said looked in a different way. of course the battery issue is a non starter as you said correctly, batteries are easy to come by. But if you want to be FORCED to use manual exposure for complete immersion in the photo experience then the R3M has that advantage.
