fidget
Lemon magnet
After many attempts to get my Zorki 6 working i had given it a clean, lube, curtain ribbon reglued, tension set, wind mechanism from Zenit transplanted, wind gear ratchet set up (that was fun!). Other problems of lost frames wound on, curtains not parting intermittently sorted out, after the last 4 hour play with it, it looked good. This time I tested and tested before I put the top cover back on. Finally I was confident. I put the top back on and set to about the last and easiest job, setting the rangefinder.
Now, I've set up every FSU rf that I've had (er.....except the kiev, that treat is yet to come), but this thing is just beating me. The little prism patch window rotates the co-incident image as expected, but sort of gyrates in an orbit above the desired position. It isn't helped by the stunning design feature where the left-right adjustment screw under the access hole is much higher than the hole so I can't get at it.
Anyone experienced (and even fixed) this setup?
Dave...
Now, I've set up every FSU rf that I've had (er.....except the kiev, that treat is yet to come), but this thing is just beating me. The little prism patch window rotates the co-incident image as expected, but sort of gyrates in an orbit above the desired position. It isn't helped by the stunning design feature where the left-right adjustment screw under the access hole is much higher than the hole so I can't get at it.
Anyone experienced (and even fixed) this setup?
Dave...
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
Sorry I need you to work out what to do and tell me as my '5' needs a new shutter etc...
Noel
Sorry I need you to work out what to do and tell me as my '5' needs a new shutter etc...
Noel
wolves3012
Veteran
When you say "in an orbit", do you mean a curved path or just a straight line above where it should be?
The vertical alignment is adjustable. I've not worked on a Z6 but I think it'll be the same or similar to the Z4. There are 2 adjusting screws on the mirror housing that can be used to rotate it in a vertical sense, once you've unlocked the retaining screw on the end. I think the rangefinder window is also a prism for vertical adjustment but I haven't tried turning it as mine is correct. You'll have to take the top off to adjust either of these. Once you do you'll see what I'm referring to, it's easier to see than try and explain!
Hope that helps...if not someone more knowledgeable will chip in I'm sure!
The vertical alignment is adjustable. I've not worked on a Z6 but I think it'll be the same or similar to the Z4. There are 2 adjusting screws on the mirror housing that can be used to rotate it in a vertical sense, once you've unlocked the retaining screw on the end. I think the rangefinder window is also a prism for vertical adjustment but I haven't tried turning it as mine is correct. You'll have to take the top off to adjust either of these. Once you do you'll see what I'm referring to, it's easier to see than try and explain!
Hope that helps...if not someone more knowledgeable will chip in I'm sure!
kmack
do your job, then let go
I don't know if this applies to the zorki but I had a similar problem with a Fed 3. In my case the top ball bearing under the bracket holding the rangfinder prism was not seated correctly in it's socket. I created a small shim out of some very thin copper sheeting and placed it on top of the prism to get the bearing seated properly, After that I was able to properly get the vertical RF image to align correctly.
fidget
Lemon magnet
wolves3012 said:
Yes, the coincident image moves in a circular path (but always above the desired position, never actually getting there) in the RF window, (which as you say, is a prism) is rotated. I guess that the top will have to come off again, to move the RF mirror and to work out how to get the RF cam lever adjuster into a position where i can adjust it through the hole.
Back to the tray!
fidget
Lemon magnet
I had a hour spare so I took the top off again (getting good at that part). As Wolves3012 said the RF prism/mirror can be tilted very easily. It was fairly easy to set up the RF whilst the top was off and I was able to set it so that the prism mounted on the front of the case gave a good range of adjustment above and belowthe target. As I still had the problem where the horizontal adjustment screw is too high for the normal through-the-top-case-adjustment hole I set this up before replacing the top. Now it's on it is very close to spot on, good enough to eventually get some film in it.
Thanks Wolves! You helped to save the Z6 from the bin and I've lost the urge to leave teeth marks in the top casing.
Dave....
Thanks Wolves! You helped to save the Z6 from the bin and I've lost the urge to leave teeth marks in the top casing.
Dave....
wolves3012
Veteran
fidget said:I had a hour spare so I took the top off again (getting good at that part). As Wolves3012 said the RF prism/mirror can be tilted very easily. It was fairly easy to set up the RF whilst the top was off and I was able to set it so that the prism mounted on the front of the case gave a good range of adjustment above and belowthe target. As I still had the problem where the horizontal adjustment screw is too high for the normal through-the-top-case-adjustment hole I set this up before replacing the top. Now it's on it is very close to spot on, good enough to eventually get some film in it.
Thanks Wolves! You helped to save the Z6 from the bin and I've lost the urge to leave teeth marks in the top casing.
Dave....
Glad to be of assisstance. I suspect your teeth have been saved rather than the top casing though!
comp_wiz101
Compulsive Tinkerer
When my Zorki 3 prism wedge wouldn't rotate at all, I used the two adjustment screws on the mirror to tilt the image into the correct alignment
fidget
Lemon magnet
Thanks for your comments.
The main reason for the apparent never ending problems with this particular camera is due to my mistake when I tightened the collar around the shutter release button in an effort to get it off (it's a left hand thread). Further efforts to turn it the correct way simply resulted in the gears stripping inside. I cut the collar off and used some bits donated by a Zenit to replace. These bits didn't include the wind gear ratchet which got mangled but was straightened out. To get at this I take the rf assembly off the body. When it goes back on the alignment is always out a little. When tightening the collar after the work is done, the little ratchet is strained as this is what I am turning against. I guess it is distorted each time and this is what then gives shutter problems or lost frames. So off with the top and....well a sort of circular exercise. Seems settled now I cleaned the little ratchet up.
The main reason for the apparent never ending problems with this particular camera is due to my mistake when I tightened the collar around the shutter release button in an effort to get it off (it's a left hand thread). Further efforts to turn it the correct way simply resulted in the gears stripping inside. I cut the collar off and used some bits donated by a Zenit to replace. These bits didn't include the wind gear ratchet which got mangled but was straightened out. To get at this I take the rf assembly off the body. When it goes back on the alignment is always out a little. When tightening the collar after the work is done, the little ratchet is strained as this is what I am turning against. I guess it is distorted each time and this is what then gives shutter problems or lost frames. So off with the top and....well a sort of circular exercise. Seems settled now I cleaned the little ratchet up.
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fidget
Lemon magnet
Yes, top off for that as well. It's the only way with the Zorki 5(a) also. It has no prism glass on the outside. (see avatar).comp_wiz101 said:
Dave.....