Rodinal 1:100 stand question

Posts #12 through #19: why bother, there are plenty of other ways to get better results.

There are other ways, but I've found this to be the easiest way to get consistent results that are far better than I've found with other developers.

For me the primary advantages are not having to accurately measure volumes or temperatures, and not having to stand over the stuff agitating every minute for 10-20 minutes. Once you get to a 60 minute dev time, the stuff is going to be room temperature anyway, and 5 minutes either way doesn't make a difference.

The fact that my results are more pleasing to my eye anywhere from box speed to a 3 stop push is just gravy.
 
I had a very similar issue with an early attempt at 1:100 stand dev. After this I decided that a bit of gentle agitation was needed at the half-way point in the process.

Fits my experience to a T.

The difference pre-soaking makes is fundamental. I use Rodinal about 30% of the time, and almost always 1+100 for one hour with a couple of gentle inversions on the half hour. It can be beautiful. I still like PMK Pyro better for most of what I do, while Diafine is great for pushing Tri-X to EI 1250 "automatically".

Everyone's experience is unique and there's a lot of valid alternatives out there. I wish I could see what some of you are doing in person!
 
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More about pre-soaking ... I've gone back to it for the older films I use with softer emulsions. Rollei Retro and Adox seem to both prefer it!
 
Posts #12 through #19: why bother, there are plenty of other ways to get better results.

For me, this is just another technique to try, which seems to have the advantage of being very economical with developer as well as being very tolerant of variations in time and temperature. I have some odd films, like Kodak 2485 Traffic Surveillance film, and Ilford 617 B&W 35mm motion picture film, that there is very little published information about, and a tolerant developing technique is helpful.

I'll be glad to hear more about the other ways, too. 🙂
 
More about pre-soaking ... I've gone back to it for the older films I use with softer emulsions. Rollei Retro and Adox seem to both prefer it!

Well what do you know, just two films I wanted to ask about!


Question to all: how would you rate the following film, when developing them in Rodinal 1:100?

Orwopan 400
Rollei 100
Rollei 400
Adox 100

I got all those in the mail today, now where did I put that other fridge?😛
 
I did not presoak, so maybe that's the ticket. I'll try 1:200 with a presoak and a second agitation, and see how that works. But something tells me my natural impatience will keep me using 1:50 and regular agitation most of the time.
 
Secrets of Rodinal Stand Development:

1. Always pre-soak. It doesn't matter if it is voodoo, it's good voodoo, so just do it.
2. At 1:100, you can only develop 1 roll in a 2 roll tank lest you risk uneven development due to insufficient developer in the solution. Violate this rule often enough, and you will eventually know what I'm talking about.
3. Agitate, vigorously, for at least one full minute. Invert, rotate and whatever else you can think of. Do them all.
4. Don't, don't touch it for at least an hour. Go have a beer or a coffee down around the corner.
5. With most slow films, and this works best with slow films, you'll get .5 to 1 stop push in the shadows and muted highlights. Expose accordingly.
6. When you've mastered all of the above, go back to using Rodinal 1:50 with normal agitation.
 
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