newtorf
Established
I've got similar problem, but not because of stand development. I used HC-110 dilution H and only developed with well-known time. However, I still got this kind of uneven negative on one side. So it seems a mystery to me because: 1) my development time is not as long as stand development; 2) I only used minimal amount of developer (15 ml for 4 rolls of 36exp films), which in theory should exhaust quickly. How can it be that one side of the films still got over-developed?
For reference: some photos showing Rodinal 1+100 stand development failures.
The first - over-development of one side of the neg.
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Occasionally I got good results, but too often I got this. If it works for you keep doing what you're doing!
Photo_Smith
Well-known
Just a question, do you use a central stick rather than inversion? I have played with stand development quite a bit over the years never got anything like the above two faults, many other type of issues.
I'm guessing that stand development being non standard with modern films (lots of films were developed stand-to completion before the war) will give erratic results.
I'm guessing that stand development being non standard with modern films (lots of films were developed stand-to completion before the war) will give erratic results.
valdas
Veteran
Well, I have never managed to get decent results from stand development. A couple of days ago i developed Rollei Superpan 200, 1+100, 45 min. Just a bit too much grain for my taste, but printed in the darkroom was not that bad. This one is scanned film:

BW400CN
Bessamatic forever!

Zeiss Ikon Mess Ikonta 524/2 - Ilford Delta 100 von Michael Relguag auf Flickr
Ilford Delta 100
Adonal 1:100 Standentwicklung 20° 60min
Gasthof Stern Ötz - www.gasthof-zum-stern.at/

Pentacon Six TL - Kodak T-Max 400 von Michael Relguag auf Flickr
Pentacon Six TL
Biometar 2,8 80mm MC
Kodak T-Max 400 Adonal 1:100 60min 20°
Sekelton - www.olympiaworld.at

Voigtländer Bergheil - Wephota Ortho 25 von Michael Relguag auf Flickr
Voigtländer Bergheil
Heliar 4,5 13,5cm
Wephota Ortho 25 Adonal 1:100 11min 20°
Bobbahn Innsbruck Igls - www.olympiaworld.at
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
I used to do stand developing 1:100 until i started getting uneven developing, just like ChrisN described. I suspect that the older the developer,the more prominent the uneven developing.
Here is a picture of a successful developing I did
Here is a picture of a successful developing I did

Dayrell bishop
Well-known
Tmax 100 rodinal 1.100 1hour agitation 15 secs at start twist and turn at 20 and 40 m
Tmax 100 rodinal 1.100 1hour agitation 15 secs at start twist and turn at 20 and 40 m
Tmax 100 rodinal 1.100 1hour agitation 15 secs at start twist and turn at 20 and 40 m

newtorf
Established
It is hard to tell. Recently I did some semi-stand development with fresh bottle of Rodinal but I still got uneven developed films.
On the other side, my bottle of HC-110 has been opened for a long time.
On the other side, my bottle of HC-110 has been opened for a long time.
I used to do stand developing 1:100 until i started getting uneven developing, just like ChrisN described. I suspect that the older the developer,the more prominent the uneven developing.
newtorf
Established
I always did 30 seconds initial inversions and then 2 inversions per 2 minutes. Perhaps it is due to inadequate agitation. I am going to try a little bit more agitation to see if this helps solve the uneven development issue.
Just a question, do you use a central stick rather than inversion? I have played with stand development quite a bit over the years never got anything like the above two faults, many other type of issues.
I'm guessing that stand development being non standard with modern films (lots of films were developed stand-to completion before the war) will give erratic results.
gsgary
Well-known
This was developed 1+100 and left in the fridge for 1 hour

bojanfurst
Well-known
Just tried using Rodinal in 1:100 for the first time using stand development and this thread was super helpful, especially P. Lynn Miller's advice. Thank you.
I developed together a role of 135 Arista Premium (used it for the first time) and a 120 roll of Tri-X. Arista in Zeiss Ikon with C-Biogon 35mm and Tri-X in Yashica Mat 124G. The event is the annual Mummers' Parade in St. John's, Newfoundland.
I developed together a role of 135 Arista Premium (used it for the first time) and a 120 roll of Tri-X. Arista in Zeiss Ikon with C-Biogon 35mm and Tri-X in Yashica Mat 124G. The event is the annual Mummers' Parade in St. John's, Newfoundland.


kiss-o-matic
Well-known
SuperPan 200 in Rodinal 1+100. 20C | 45 Min. 30 seconds of agitation only I believe.

Rag by gaijin_punch, on Flickr

Higasa by gaijin_punch, on Flickr

One of Us is Happy by gaijin_punch, on Flickr
I have many rolls of Retro 400s (same film) which I'm going to try at 1+100. I would like to do a single roll of 135 first but that would be < 2.5ml of Rodinal. NOt sure if I have a way to measure that. So, might be two (or three) to start.

Rag by gaijin_punch, on Flickr

Higasa by gaijin_punch, on Flickr

One of Us is Happy by gaijin_punch, on Flickr
I have many rolls of Retro 400s (same film) which I'm going to try at 1+100. I would like to do a single roll of 135 first but that would be < 2.5ml of Rodinal. NOt sure if I have a way to measure that. So, might be two (or three) to start.
jwicaksana
Jakarta, Indonesia
Nice tones and lively subjects!SuperPan 200 in Rodinal 1+100. 20C | 45 Min. 30 seconds of agitation only I believe.
I have many rolls of Retro 400s (same film) which I'm going to try at 1+100. I would like to do a single roll of 135 first but that would be < 2.5ml of Rodinal. NOt sure if I have a way to measure that. So, might be two (or three) to start.
Regarding dilution ratio, you can do it 1+50 or just make a 500ml solution. They last forever anyway.
For me, I do it 1+50 standard development after some failure with stand.
BW400CN
Bessamatic forever!
This was developed 1+100 and left in the fridge for 1 hour
May I ask why you put it in the fridge?
Photo_Smith
Well-known
People keep it in the fridge to slow developer reaction after the initial inertia period. With Rodinal temperatures of 18°C and lower often shows less grain or rather a finer structure. When I can get time I'll try to show some images from under the microscope that bust a few Rodinal grain size myths.
DKimg
Established
I've experimented with Rodinal 1:100. I believe at times the developer exhausted quickly because of the weak dilution but results seem okay. First time around, the grain was more visible; then, it got better.


gsgary
Well-known
I've experimented with Rodinal 1:100. I believe at times the developer exhausted quickly because of the weak dilution but results seem okay. First time around, the grain was more visible; then, it got better.
![]()
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That second shot got a lot better
gsgary
Well-known
This is 13 years out of date Tmax100 that i shoot at iso400 by mistake and stand developed in the fridge


Highway 61
Revisited
By far !That second shot got a lot better![]()
Photo_Smith
Well-known
I love the way the grains are rendered... (someone had to say it)
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Just saying: had Rodinal 1:100 work on TMax400 in the past and results were very grainy.
Did a tank of 5 films the other day, 4 APX100 and one TMax400. Rodinal 1:100 stand dev. for 1 hour, with first minute inversions only.
I put the tank in the fridge after filling it with approx 14° Rodinal, 3ml per film.
Fixed the TMax400 for a minute more than the APX100, to clear the film base..
Grain came out very decent, not more than on the APX films.
Did a tank of 5 films the other day, 4 APX100 and one TMax400. Rodinal 1:100 stand dev. for 1 hour, with first minute inversions only.
I put the tank in the fridge after filling it with approx 14° Rodinal, 3ml per film.
Fixed the TMax400 for a minute more than the APX100, to clear the film base..
Grain came out very decent, not more than on the APX films.
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