denishr
アナログ侘・&#
I just saw a shot by Allen Gilman ("untitled"), done on Tri-X (pushed) and souped in Rodinal 1:50 in his gallery.
Since Rodinal is my developer of choice, I'd like to hear more about your experiences.
I've used it for my Efke stuff (but at max. EI 100), and I'm very pleased.
However, I'd like to either push Efke KB/R 100 up to at least 400, or use my newly acquired TMax 400 at nominal EI 400, or pushed to max. EI 800.
I've read a lot about Rodinal not being suitable for more sensitive films (above 100), but Allan's resulting photo (mentioned above) leaves nothing to be desired. I quite like it.
So, I wondered if Allen can share some info on developing times, etc...
As an aside, I develop my Efke KB100 (and R100 in medium format roll film) in Rodinal 1:50, at 20 deg. Celsius (68F), for 10 to 11 minutes, depending on the lighting conditions and the desired effect.
I also use Jobo processor CPE-2 with Jobo lift, and usually reduce the above times by half a minute to one minute.
Just yesterday I developed two rolls of R100 taken in rather sunny and contrasty conditions in Jobo processor, but it seems that I've left them souping a bit too much - the negs are dense, and the scans are not so good
I'm about to try Efke 100 pushed to 400, and will probably try Rodinal 1:50 at about 20 minutes in hand tank. The recommended times from various sources vary wildly - from 18 to 24 minutes, so I guess 20 minutes should be an OK starting point for hand inversion once every minute....
So, finally, I'd like to hear your experiences with Rodinal and push processing. It can be done, and very successfully, as Allen's photo shows
Since Rodinal is my developer of choice, I'd like to hear more about your experiences.
I've used it for my Efke stuff (but at max. EI 100), and I'm very pleased.
However, I'd like to either push Efke KB/R 100 up to at least 400, or use my newly acquired TMax 400 at nominal EI 400, or pushed to max. EI 800.
I've read a lot about Rodinal not being suitable for more sensitive films (above 100), but Allan's resulting photo (mentioned above) leaves nothing to be desired. I quite like it.
So, I wondered if Allen can share some info on developing times, etc...
As an aside, I develop my Efke KB100 (and R100 in medium format roll film) in Rodinal 1:50, at 20 deg. Celsius (68F), for 10 to 11 minutes, depending on the lighting conditions and the desired effect.
I also use Jobo processor CPE-2 with Jobo lift, and usually reduce the above times by half a minute to one minute.
Just yesterday I developed two rolls of R100 taken in rather sunny and contrasty conditions in Jobo processor, but it seems that I've left them souping a bit too much - the negs are dense, and the scans are not so good
I'm about to try Efke 100 pushed to 400, and will probably try Rodinal 1:50 at about 20 minutes in hand tank. The recommended times from various sources vary wildly - from 18 to 24 minutes, so I guess 20 minutes should be an OK starting point for hand inversion once every minute....
So, finally, I'd like to hear your experiences with Rodinal and push processing. It can be done, and very successfully, as Allen's photo shows
Allen Gilman
Well-known
Hi Denishr,
Thanks for your comments about the photo. I use Rodinal for specific situations (about 25% of my developing) and xtol (1+2 or 1+3) for the rest as an all around developer. If the lighting conditions are not too contrasty, but a little cloudy so the light is diffused, then, at times, I will use Tri-X rated at 1000 or Neopan 1600 rated at 1000. Both are contrasty when shot at the above ISOs. To tame the contrast a bit, I don't use so much agitation towards the end of the development.
For example, in the case of the shot above (tri-x pushed 2 stops souped in Rodinal 1+50 for 18.5 minutes), I agitate for 10 seconds every minute and then for about the last six minutes I agitate for ten seconds once every two minutes. I develop as if it were shot at 1600 but expose the film at 1000 and sometimes I overexpose by 1/3 when I'm shooting if I think I will need the shadow detail (this is minute but I'll take everything I can get).
The grain really starts to come out but it's sharp.
I have to emphasize that the lighting conditions are key to how it looks - just as much as any other step in the process.
For contrasty conditions, when I push tri-x or use Neopan 1600, I soup it in diluted xtol.
I have to say I haven't used Rodinal for other films so I can't give you any tips on that end. All I can say is that the lighting conditions when you're shooting are an important factor to how you develop the film (which you probably already know anyway). Thanks for the tips on Efke which I haven't shot before - I don't think I've seen it here in Tokyo. Why do you use that film?
Thanks for your comments about the photo. I use Rodinal for specific situations (about 25% of my developing) and xtol (1+2 or 1+3) for the rest as an all around developer. If the lighting conditions are not too contrasty, but a little cloudy so the light is diffused, then, at times, I will use Tri-X rated at 1000 or Neopan 1600 rated at 1000. Both are contrasty when shot at the above ISOs. To tame the contrast a bit, I don't use so much agitation towards the end of the development.
For example, in the case of the shot above (tri-x pushed 2 stops souped in Rodinal 1+50 for 18.5 minutes), I agitate for 10 seconds every minute and then for about the last six minutes I agitate for ten seconds once every two minutes. I develop as if it were shot at 1600 but expose the film at 1000 and sometimes I overexpose by 1/3 when I'm shooting if I think I will need the shadow detail (this is minute but I'll take everything I can get).
The grain really starts to come out but it's sharp.
I have to emphasize that the lighting conditions are key to how it looks - just as much as any other step in the process.
For contrasty conditions, when I push tri-x or use Neopan 1600, I soup it in diluted xtol.
I have to say I haven't used Rodinal for other films so I can't give you any tips on that end. All I can say is that the lighting conditions when you're shooting are an important factor to how you develop the film (which you probably already know anyway). Thanks for the tips on Efke which I haven't shot before - I don't think I've seen it here in Tokyo. Why do you use that film?
Allen Gilman
Well-known
Incidentally, for reference, here is the photo mentioned:
denishr
アナログ侘・&#
Allen Gilman said:
Thanks for the answer, Allen.
As for Efke, it's made in Croatia. Since I'm in Croatia, it's a logical choice
It's easy to obtain here, they do local mail orders, and the characteristics of the film are OK - particularly in medium format.
However, all the shots in my gallery were done on Efke KB100 (35mm format). Everything was developed in Rodinal 1:50, and I'd dare say that the results are OK
Denis
FrankS
Registered User
Beautiful photo, Allen!
hoppinghippos
Camera Addict
yeah that's one of my favourite photos I"ve seen recently too! nice job allen!