Rodinal vs HC110

[jett]

Both of these developers are similar in that they are liquid, flexible, economical, and last a very long time. I've only used Rodinal but I'm interested in branching out a bit and giving HC110 a go because seems to be very popular.

I know that one is not "better" than the other because they are just different, but for those who have tried both, how do the two compare? Or when do you choose one over the other?

I usually shoot Tri-x (120 and 35mm) at 400 but I push to 800 and 1600 occasionally.

From what I gather:
-HC110 is gives slightly more film speed (although both slow)
-Rodinal is slightly sharper and gives coarser grain

 

[timor]

Hard to compare as they are not similar. However for pushing HC110 should be better. It works fine with TX, but expect rather visible grain (well, TX. Still better, than HP5). You may try higher temperatures: 24, 25C.
I would suggest you should get known HC110, then you can use it depends on situation.
I think Rodinal is a lot sharper do. Not just slightly. And Rodinal in low concentrations can produce quite small grain.

 

[Mablo]

From what I gather:
-HC110 is gives slightly more film speed (although both slow)
-Rodinal is slightly sharper and gives coarser grain

That's about it. I use both Rodinal and HC-110 regularly. I have a feeling that you might get a little bit more tonality with Rodinal but not very much. The speed difference is about half a stop. I like to use HC-110H dilution and Rodinal I use diluted 1:50. I never push with Rodinal but I think you could push maybe a stop with HC-110 depending on the film used.

1l bottle of HC-110 is enough for years. I use it like Rodinal and dilute the syrup straight with water. 8ml syrup for a 500ml tank for dilution H.

 

[Brian Legge]

I started using both HC110 and Rodinal. I've gravitated towards Rodinal for almost everything with DDX for high speed films / pushing (though I'm going to try XTOL for cost reasons in the near future).

Rodinal gave more pronounced grain than HC110 though HC110 developed film didn't look as sharp. I found it was easier to blow contrast with HC110 and some films - Rodinal seemed more consistent in behavior. I never tested it formally but I felt like I got a bit more speed with HC110 than Rodinal. The difference felt minor - maybe half a stop. Then again I developed 400 and slower speed film with the pair. I got better results with HC110 dilution B than H, despite trying H for economy of developer. Dilution B negatives felt more contrasty.

If you are happy with Rodinal I'd stick with it and try another developer which serves a different roll. XTOL or Diafine for higher speeds are the first pair that come to mind.

 

[gho]

I have tried both and both are very workable developers.

From my experience, Rodinal - now Adonal - gives more acutance, sharper grain and a slightly different tonality than HC-110 with Tri-X. HC-110 is less corrosive than Adonal.

I use them as follows. Just starting points.

Rodinal:
* 1+50, 20 C, 13 min, Tri-X@400. (good standard negative)
* 1+50, 20 C, 20 min, Tri-X@800 (good for low contrast scenes, such as overcast weather)

HC-110:
* Dilution B, 20 C, 8 min, Tri-X@400 (good standard negative)
Dilution F, 20 C, 1h stand, Tri-X@800 (quite high contrast, soft grain)
Dilution B, 20 C, 1h stand, Tri-X@ around 1600 (even higher contrast, if you like that look, I stumbled accidentally over this)

I have used Rodinal stand development also, but stopped using it because of uneven development. Now I am more back to the tried and proven standard recipies marked with a star.

The main consideration to take into account when choosing between these two developers is whether you would like to have more acutance and hard grain or slightly softer grain and still good acutance. In the end I would recommend staying with just one developer - film combination for some time to get to know it really well. HC-110 and Adonal are good, classical and versatile choices. Have fun!

 

[jett]

I'll stick with Rodinal and understand it better before jumping into HC-110. To me, it seems that they would give slightly different looks but ultimately, they would serve the same purpose. I do want to try HC110, just not now.

 

[FrankS]

I use both: Rodinal for 100 speed film, HC110 for 400 speed film.

 

[charjohncarter]

They are suppose to be similar developers (chemically), to me they are different (somewhat). I find Rodinal a little harsher than HC-110. So little it may be exposure rather than developers. To me the position on the H-D curve with a developer that you like is the most important factor.

In other words, you have to develop your EI for every developer/film combination. This implies YOU have to decide where your developer/film combination is positioned of H-D curve.

Check out Roger Hicks site which has very excellent modules on just this question. It is a great resource.

 

[Dana B.]

"HC-110:
* Dilution B, 20 C, 8 min, Tri-X@400 (good standard negative)"

Wow. For HC-110, Kodak calls for 3.75 minutes for Tri-X, and I've upped it to 4.5 minutes. I can believe you're developing at 8 minutes at 68 degrees.

 

[guoshuo]

"HC-110:
* Dilution B, 20 C, 8 min, Tri-X@400 (good standard negative)"

Wow. For HC-110, Kodak calls for 3.75 minutes for Tri-X, and I've upped it to 4.5 minutes. I can believe you're developing at 8 minutes at 68 degrees.

This bothers me, too. I use hc 110 h for trix @ 400, 7.5 min@ 20 degree c, it looks great. Any body could explain?

 

[semilog]

I don't much like either one of them in 35mm. In MF, both can be gorgeous.

 

[Trius]

This bothers me, too. I use hc 110 h for trix @ 400, 7.5 min@ 20 degree c, it looks great. Any body could explain?

My experience with HC-110 (dil b) was for TriX shot @ 200. This was in the 70-80s, so at least one emulsion version earlier. At 400, and depending on meter accuracy and technique, printing technology (condensor vs. diffusion if printing optically,) etc., it ~7 minutes could be appropriate.

 

[kiemchacsu]

I have tried both and both are very workable developers.

From my experience, Rodinal - now Adonal - gives more acutance, sharper grain and a slightly different tonality than HC-110 with Tri-X. HC-110 is less corrosive than Adonal.

I use them as follows. Just starting points.

Rodinal:
* 1+50, 20 C, 13 min, Tri-X@400. (good standard negative)
* 1+50, 20 C, 20 min, Tri-X@800 (good for low contrast scenes, such as overcast weather)

HC-110:
* Dilution B, 20 C, 8 min, Tri-X@400 (good standard negative)
Dilution F, 20 C, 1h stand, Tri-X@800 (quite high contrast, soft grain)
Dilution B, 20 C, 1h stand, Tri-X@ around 1600 (even higher contrast, if you like that look, I stumbled accidentally over this)

I have used Rodinal stand development also, but stopped using it because of uneven development. Now I am more back to the tried and proven standard recipies marked with a star.

The main consideration to take into account when choosing between these two developers is whether you would like to have more acutance and hard grain or slightly softer grain and still good acutance. In the end I would recommend staying with just one developer - film combination for some time to get to know it really well. HC-110 and Adonal are good, classical and versatile choices. Have fun!

I was confusing with your formula. I use HC-110 dilution B to push Tri-X to 1600 ISO in 16mins 20C. The photo below might be underexposure a bit but I dont think that it need to go up to 1hr developing.


110806_Tinhgia_09_400TX by kiemchacsu, on Flickr

 

[joeswe]

I was confusing with your formula. I use HC-110 dilution B to push Tri-X to 1600 ISO in 16mins 20C. The photo below might be underexposure a bit but I dont think that it need to go up to 1hr developing.


110806_Tinhgia_09_400TX by kiemchacsu, on Flickr

The numbers Gho gives are for stand development (no agitation after the 1st minute or so). I assume the time you give is for a conventional (agitated) development, which would explain the different times.
John

 

[Joeys61]

Agitation will distinguish the two developers. Rodinal is high accutance and vigorous agitation will increase contrast and apparent sharpness. Just have a look at the emulsion once it's dried and it will appear to be 3D! One more thing, Rodinal is a one shot developer and I may be wrong, HC 110 can be replenished

 

[charjohncarter]

Agitation will distinguish the two developers. Rodinal is high accutance and vigorous agitation will increase contrast and apparent sharpness. Just have a look at the emulsion once it's dried and it will appear to be 3D! One more thing, Rodinal is a one shot developer and I may be wrong, HC 110 can be replenished

This is true, but I use the same agitation scheme for both developers with the same film. I get a slightly different result but only slightly. Those 3D negatives with Rodinal are something to see. Best seen for me with TMY-2.