Roid Week 2017

It is possible to pull a negative from IP B&W film. Here’s a negative, which I inverted to a positive, in Photoshop. My first try, so excuse the blemishes. Still, the excellence of the SX-70 lens is obvious in this pic. Sharp.

invert3.jpg


Jim B.
 
Very neat. Okay, now how do you extract the negative?

I read about this only a few weeks ago. I can’t find the link, so this is from memory.

Take an IP B&W print and trim off everything leaving only the picture. Place the pic in hot water for about 2-3 minutes, then peel off the clear mylar (which has the positive image) and separate from the black backing. Plunge the black backing back into the water and gently massage the coating away from the backing (which may take several minutes). You can use your fingers (wearing gloves) or use a soft sponge or rag. When the coating is removed, you’ll see a B&W neg on the black backing. When dry, scan the image and invert with PS.

There’s a trick to removing the coating from the black backing which I’m still trying to master. If you do it right, you get a decent negative. If you do it poorly, the neg will be splotchy. The neg does have more detail than the print, so you can do more in the way of corrections in PS.

I’m not 100% sold on all of this, but it has potential.

Jim B.
 
I read about this only a few weeks ago. I can’t find the link, so this is from memory.

Take an IP B&W print and trim off everything leaving only the picture. Place the pic in hot water for about 2-3 minutes, then peel off the clear mylar (which has the positive image) and separate from the black backing. Plunge the black backing back into the water and gently massage the coating away from the backing (which may take several minutes). You can use your fingers (wearing gloves) or use a soft sponge or rag. When the coating is removed, you’ll see a B&W neg on the black backing. When dry, scan the image and invert with PS.

There’s a trick to removing the coating from the black backing which I’m still trying to master. If you do it right, you get a decent negative. If you do it poorly, the neg will be splotchy. The neg does have more detail than the print, so you can do more in the way of corrections in PS.

I’m not 100% sold on all of this, but it has potential.

Thanks! It is interesting ... whether it has much promise depends on how repeatable I could make it. That's a lot of effort to get a negative out. I'll have to give it a shot at least once or twice. 🙂

G
 
Thanks! It is interesting ... whether it has much promise depends on how repeatable I could make it. That's a lot of effort to get a negative out. I'll have to give it a shot at least once or twice. 🙂

It’s not really hard, you could almost call it easy, but the trick is to remove all of the coating from the black backing. Experiment with a few pics that are just so-so, then graduate to more important pics once you feel more comfortable with the process.

I like the almost “painterly” look to the pic. Its best use may be for portraits.

BTW, you’ll still have the original positive image, which will be fixed to the clear mylar. It’s delicate though, so be careful not to scratch while wet.

Jim B.
 
Roidweek day 5

from our coast to coast road trip:

When we arrived to the Mediterranean Sea in Liguria landed in a village called Camogli from where with a short "hike" we reached a promontory called Punta Chiappa where a cat was waiting for us !

coast to coast, the mediterranean sea.jpg by robert, su Flickr

of course there was also a typical fishing boat

fishing boat.jpg by robert, su Flickr
 
Day 6 toward the end...

At the end of our journey we made a stoop over in a small village called Boccadasse near Genova, Mediterranean Sea.

coast to coast, boccadasse, GE.jpg by robert, su Flickr

At the end Punta Chiappa a mosaic dedicated to the "Madonna del Soccorso" which I would translate as "Madonna of the Rescue" saving all the sailors in difficult moments.

madonna del soccorso a Punta Chiapp.jpg by robert, su Flickr
 
There was a peel-apart B&W negative available from the Polaroid film I used in my Hasselblad 500 CM in the 90's, but your results are looking better than the darkroom prints I made from those negs back then...

As mentioned above, this is a new process somebody discovered. You have to separate the positive image from the negative. Not terribly hard, you soak the original IP print in hot water for about five minutes, then peel apart. Once you wash all of the coating off the backing, you get a negative. This isn’t a negative in the traditional Tri-X sense, but a negative on paper. Scan and invert in Photoshop and you get a positive image. Then play around with levels to get the proper brightness and contrast. If the original IP print is properly exposed, you get a negative that will produce an excellent image.

Only eat downside is that separating the negative from the positive result in a lot of black “dust” on the paper negative. You can spend a lot of time in PS blotting out the dust. But you can get a real impressive image, like the one above.

Jim B.
 
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