Rollei 35 German Focus RIng Stuck

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

Hi everyone im new here ^_^ i have been checking the site all the time and thought to make an account.

i bought a Rollei 35 from online and everything runs fine but the foucus ring was stuck, I searched up everything and i unscrewed the front to see if there was anything wrong and when i put it back together it now moves fine but with an screching noise.

I think the screws were too tight but how do i know its focusing fine ? do i have to do test shots and get them developed ?.

thanks for anyhelp with this.

 

[FrankS]

I think that those screws do need to be tight. The screeching you describe could be those set screws scratching the still frozen focus barrel.

This is just my guess based on your description.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

I think that those screws do need to be tight. The screeching you describe could be those set screws scratching the still frozen focus barrel.

This is just my guess based on your description.

darn.
well the metal ring does move but does anything else have to move with the metal ring ?


edit: ok i tightened the screws and turned out away from 10 ft and now it turns smoothly but it won't go past 10 ft.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

Just thought i would add,It appears the back of the lens has fungus T_T and i can't afford to get a CLA as i would need to send it from Australia.
Can the fungus infect any of my other camera gear ?.
Is there a way i can clean it myself or do you's think i should get a refund from the seller. He stated the lens was clear and clean

 

[ZeissFan]

There are three screws that hold the front lens group to the barrel. There is a small flat plastic ring that covers the three screws. Did you remove those? How did you get the lens apart?

As for the fungus, you probably should remove the rear lens element to clean it.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

There are three screws that hold the front lens group to the barrel. There is a small flat plastic ring that covers the three screws. Did you remove those? How did you get the lens apart?

As for the fungus, you probably should remove the rear lens element to clean it.

Thanks

i removed the front plastic disc(its stuck by glue) and unscrewed them but i did tighten them back and turned the focus ring and it goes smooth but stops at 10ft.

also i think it turns out the fungus was on the back not inside the lens so that's a relief,I cleaned it and it seems gone(for now).

thanks for any help.its really appreciated

 

[zuiko85]

Those three screws run in slots. The purpose is to align the infinity mark with infinity so the focus scale will read correctly. This is especially important as the Rollei 35 is a focus by scale camera. You have to tape a ground glass (a flat piece of plastic with frosted Scotch tape on one side will serve) placed at the film plane. Set the camera on 'B', lock the shutter open with a locking cable release and set the aperture at f3.5 Using a magnifier, a 5X to 8X will do, examine the image at the focal plane for an object at infinity, a kilometer will do. Turn the focus ring until it appears as sharp as possible. Now, without changing the focus loosen the three screws slightly and turn the focus indicator ring so the infinity mark aligns with the index (I think that is a small white triangle) then tighten the three screws, test the camera with film and if you have done the job right replace the trim ring with a couple dabs of contact cement.

Clear as mud?

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

Those three screws run in slots. The purpose is to align the infinity mark with infinity so the focus scale will read correctly. This is especially important as the Rollei 35 is a focus by scale camera. You have to tape a ground glass (a flat piece of plastic with frosted Scotch tape on one side will serve) placed at the film plane. Set the camera on 'B', lock the shutter open with a locking cable release and set the aperture at f3.5 Using a magnifier, a 5X to 8X will do, examine the image at the focal plane for an object at infinity, a kilometer will do. Turn the focus ring until it appears as sharp as possible. Now, without changing the focus loosen the three screws slightly and turn the focus indicator ring so the infinity mark aligns with the index (I think that is a small white triangle) then tighten the three screws, test the camera with film and if you have done the job right replace the trim ring with a couple dabs of contact cement.

Clear as mud?

Thanks for the help. I will try to do this once i get those things.
But when i turn the lens lets say with my hands not the focus ring it gets stuck on 10ft why is this ? Does it need to be lubricated.

 

[zuiko85]

OK, this is all coming from my distant memory. I sold my Rollei 35S years ago.

That said, on my sample the focusing ring screws worked loose and allowed the scale to shift relative to the actual focusing mechanism for the front element.

Here goes; If I remember correctly my 35S and I believe your 35, uses 'front element' focusing. That is, only the front element rotates in and out to focus the lens. This focusing has a range of movement that exceeds the requirement of focusing from infinity, lens almost all the way in, to 3 feet, lens almost all the way out. If one were to remove the focusing ring, that is the ring with the distance marks on it, and then turn the focusing mechanism, the piece that actually holds the lens, all the way in, then you could actually have the lens focused closer than infinity. That is, too close to the body. The purpose of the outer, distance marked ring, is to fine tune the infinity focus. That is why the screws run in slots, so the ring can be adjusted relative to the lens position.

At this point: FULL STOP

It is important that you understand what is happening when you focus the lens. Please notice that as you focus to a closer marked distance, the lens moves away from the body, and as you focus on a more distant object the lens moves closer to the body. You also realize that to set up this adjustment the lens must be extended and locked before you can do these adjustments. You may already know this, but I wanted to make sure.

Now, we shall continue.

This is somewhat hard to express in words but I will try.
Unlock and remove the back. Look at the rectangular opening where the film is exposed. Very close, on the top and bottom, right next to the opening there should be a shiny metal strip and that establishes the focal plane, where the image is brought to focus on the film. You need to create a 'ground glass' or substitute to place on these film plane rails. So, cut a piece of clear plastic, you could use a discarded CD cover, and cover one side with Scotch frosted tape. This little plastic piece will be made 24mm high by 40mm long. You shall then attach it, frosted side facing the lens, on the rails, by a bit of masking tape on each end.

Now. Obtain a locking cable release, attach it to the shutter release button and set the shutter speed on 'B', cock the shutter, press and lock the cable release and the shutter should stay open. Set the aperture on it's widest setting. For you I think that is f3.5
Now hold the camera up and look at the focusing screen you just attached, you will see the image on it. You must examine it with a magnifier, at least 5X, hint, a standard 50mm lens from a SLR removed makes a dandy 5X.

Now for the actual adjustment. Aim the camera at something a kilometer away, something contrasty and easy to see if it is sharp or not.

(This is where you will need 3 hands since you removed the back and no longer have a way to mount the camera on a tripod.)

Anyway, with you three hands move the actual focusing ring that holds the lens until the image of the distant object looks sharp. Make sure by examining the image on the plastic screen with the magnifier. Rotate the lens in and out carefully to make sure you have the sharpest image. This critical, you must get it right!

After you have established the infinity position of the lens then place the focusing ring (the ring with the distance marked on it) back on the lens with the infinity mark (this looks like a figure 8 laying on it side) set right on the focus index mark on the lens barrel. (I think this is a small triangle) Replace and secure the 3 screws without moving anything.

Now, if my memory is correct, the lens should focus from infinity to 3 feet and come to a stop at each end. If everything is good you can reinstall the trim ring with a small dab of rubber cement.

A final note about scale focusing lenses. With this type of focusing you have to be good a judging distance, especially wide open at close distances. At more moderate distances, say 8 to 25 feet in good light that lets you use smaller apertures, then depth of field will usually cover your bum.

I hope that I have been clear enough, I've never been a technical writer ( or a writer of any sort when it comes to that)

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

OK, this is all coming from my distant memory. I sold my Rollei 35S years ago.

That said, on my sample the focusing ring screws worked loose and allowed the scale to shift relative to the actual focusing mechanism for the front element.

Here goes; If I remember correctly my 35S and I believe your 35, uses 'front element' focusing. That is, only the front element rotates in and out to focus the lens. This focusing has a range of movement that exceeds the requirement of focusing from infinity, lens almost all the way in, to 3 feet, lens almost all the way out. If one were to remove the focusing ring, that is the ring with the distance marks on it, and then turn the focusing mechanism, the piece that actually holds the lens, all the way in, then you could actually have the lens focused closer than infinity. That is, too close to the body. The purpose of the outer, distance marked ring, is to fine tune the infinity focus. That is why the screws run in slots, so the ring can be adjusted relative to the lens position.

At this point: FULL STOP

It is important that you understand what is happening when you focus the lens. Please notice that as you focus to a closer marked distance, the lens moves away from the body, and as you focus on a more distant object the lens moves closer to the body. You also realize that to set up this adjustment the lens must be extended and locked before you can do these adjustments. You may already know this, but I wanted to make sure.

Now, we shall continue.

This is somewhat hard to express in words but I will try.
Unlock and remove the back. Look at the rectangular opening where the film is exposed. Very close, on the top and bottom, right next to the opening there should be a shiny metal strip and that establishes the focal plane, where the image is brought to focus on the film. You need to create a 'ground glass' or substitute to place on these film plane rails. So, cut a piece of clear plastic, you could use a discarded CD cover, and cover one side with Scotch frosted tape. This little plastic piece will be made 24mm high by 40mm long. You shall then attach it, frosted side facing the lens, on the rails, by a bit of masking tape on each end.

Now. Obtain a locking cable release, attach it to the shutter release button and set the shutter speed on 'B', cock the shutter, press and lock the cable release and the shutter should stay open. Set the aperture on it's widest setting. For you I think that is f3.5
Now hold the camera up and look at the focusing screen you just attached, you will see the image on it. You must examine it with a magnifier, at least 5X, hint, a standard 50mm lens from a SLR removed makes a dandy 5X.

Now for the actual adjustment. Aim the camera at something a kilometer away, something contrasty and easy to see if it is sharp or not.

(This is where you will need 3 hands since you removed the back and no longer have a way to mount the camera on a tripod.)

Anyway, with you three hands move the actual focusing ring that holds the lens until the image of the distant object looks sharp. Make sure by examining the image on the plastic screen with the magnifier. Rotate the lens in and out carefully to make sure you have the sharpest image. This critical, you must get it right!

After you have established the infinity position of the lens then place the focusing ring (the ring with the distance marked on it) back on the lens with the infinity mark (this looks like a figure 8 laying on it side) set right on the focus index mark on the lens barrel. (I think this is a small triangle) Replace and secure the 3 screws without moving anything.

Now, if my memory is correct, the lens should focus from infinity to 3 feet and come to a stop at each end. If everything is good you can reinstall the trim ring with a small dab of rubber cement.

A final note about scale focusing lenses. With this type of focusing you have to be good a judging distance, especially wide open at close distances. At more moderate distances, say 8 to 25 feet in good light that lets you use smaller apertures, then depth of field will usually cover your bum.

I hope that I have been clear enough, I've never been a technical writer ( or a writer of any sort when it comes to that)

Thanks so much for your very detailed help.
i will defiantly try this soon.

one last question when i am moving the focus ring, it stops smoothly at 3 feet but when moving to 10ft its like a rough stop cause it slightly gets stuck and then it goes smooth once i focus back to 3 ft.
why is this ?

Sorry if i sound silly. Its just I'm new to this camera.

 

[Ong]

I would ask which part of Australia are you in? If you're in Sydney I could recommend a few repairers that don't break the bank.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

I would ask which part of Australia are you in? If you're in Sydney I could recommend a few repairers that don't break the bank.

I'm in gold coast. But if its not to much i could send it to them
Thanks

 

[zuiko85]

If you can get it to a competent repair person and what you describe is the only problem then the repair should not be too expensive and if they are really well equipped they will set up the focus on a device called an 'optical collimator' and that is better than the focus screen method.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

If you can get it to a competent repair person and what you describe is the only problem then the repair should not be too expensive and if they are really well equipped they will set up the focus on a device called an 'optical collimator' and that is better than the focus screen method.

Yes thanks.
Ong told me a great repair person,I will most likely have to send it in maybe 2 weeks time due to things. But lets hope it gets all fixed up when i do ^_^ thanks for all the help guys

 

[pyeh]

Ong, it would be great if you could share the names of the Sydney repair persons, for all us other Sydneysiders.

 

[Ong]

Well, I just suggested for the OP to contact Mainline cameras out at Crows Nest (No affiliation, just a happy customer).
He does the repair for a "not silly" price.

If it's anything electronic (Mostly Nikon) I'd suggest 5 Star Cameras at 99 York Street.

 

[pyeh]

Thanks, Ong. I know Mainline very well and have used their services. They send repairs out to a number of different workshops, depending on which they think is most appropriate. I've always been happy with what they arrange.
I have heard of 5 Star but it's good to get a recommendation. I'll keep them in mind.
Thanks again.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

Could this be my problem ? https://www.flickr.com/groups/rollei35/discuss/72157616498933340/ or should i still send it into mainline.
thanks again everyone

 

[zuiko85]

Possibly. A stiff lube that has outgassed it's volatiles over the years can make for stiff, hard to turn focusing. But, the focusing ring stopping at 10 feet is a physical misalignment of the ring relative to the helical. The proper way to loosen up a stiff helical is remove the old lube and relube with the correct, new lube. A camera repair service will have this on hand. If you can, let them do the job. If the camera is otherwise in good shape it is a keeper, a real classic.

 

[KRaZiGLiTcH]

Possibly. A stiff lube that has outgassed it's volatiles over the years can make for stiff, hard to turn focusing. But, the focusing ring stopping at 10 feet is a physical misalignment of the ring relative to the helical. The proper way to loosen up a stiff helical is remove the old lube and relube with the correct, new lube. A camera repair service will have this on hand. If you can, let them do the job. If the camera is otherwise in good shape it is a keeper, a real classic.

Ok cool,Just wanted to make sure haha,thanks for all the help ^_^.