Rollei 35 LED — Questions

[xxloverxx]

Saw a Rollei 35 LED for 60 euros (I think?) yesterday. Bought it. Now it's on its way from the UK…

So questions…

The lens can only be collapsed with a cocked shutter. But the shutter is mechanical, right? So keeping the lens collapsed (ergo with shutter cocked) for a long time would surely alter the speeds slightly…?

The battery's only for the meter (which I don't need), right?

 

[xxloverxx]

Thanks for the quick reply 🙂

Did I pay too much at 60 pounds? Not euros, sorry. Pounds.

Package includes original lens cap, working battery & case.

I'm probably not going to bother with the battery…LEDs distract me.

 

[batterytypehah!]

The shutter on the Rollei 35 was designed from the start to work like that. Don't worry about it.

The idea is that the camera is ready to shoot as soon as you extend and lock the lens. Always advance before you collapse the lens.

On mine (B35) sometimes I need to unlock and lock the lens again to free up the shutter release. But I don't think that's a universal issue, just that mine has seen a lot of use and should be CLA'd.

 

[xxloverxx]

60 pounds sounds about the right price. All the Rollei 35 models prices are only going up, all the time.

If I can remember right, the LED's can be difficult to see, you must have your eye in the exact perfect position.
You can find a free .pdf manual for this camera HERE.

Should buy a few more next year…keep them working for 10 years and sell them for profit 😛
Thanks for the link — read the manual already. Most disappointing part of the Rollei 35 series is that the DOF markings aren't very…detailed…

The shutter on the Rollei 35 was designed from the start to work like that. Don't worry about it.

The idea is that the camera is ready to shoot as soon as you extend and lock the lens. Always advance before you collapse the lens.

On mine (B35) sometimes I need to unlock and lock the lens again to free up the shutter release. But I don't think that's a universal issue, just that mine has seen a lot of use and should be CLA'd.

Comforting to know, thanks. I hope mine doesn't have your issue — I do a lot of street shooting and I'd hate to hate something “not work” at the critical moment.

May well take this, along with the Kiev, to Europe this summer, instead of the big FM (SLR).
Who needs a 2nd lens anyway 🙄
Also means I'll easily fit everything into one small hip-bag…with digital as backup.

 

[ZeissFan]

I wouldn't worry about the shutter being tensioned all of the time. Rollei sold millions of the Rollei 35 cameras, and it never seemed to be an issue. In fact, this is one of the issues that never comes up, regarding the mechanics of the camera.

My own thoughts of the Rollei C 35 and LED models is that they use too much plastic and don't stand up well to hard use, because of the prolific use of plastic. The other Rollei 35 models are more substantial and have fewer mechanical issues.

By the way, the Triotar is a Carl Zeiss design, not a Rollei design, although I think that the final Triotars were branded Rollei (made under license, like the Rollei-branded Tessar). It's a decent triplet, as long as you understand the limits of a triplet.

 

[batterytypehah!]

Most disappointing part of the Rollei 35 series is that the DOF markings aren't very…detailed…

I haven't found that to be a problem but then I'm used to scale focusing. My only gripe is that it's virtually impossible to use one-handed. (I think the little thumb lever on the Minox 35 does this better, it's double-stroke but perfectly located.)

By the way, I picked up a Minolta Vectis at a yard sale recently for 50 cents. I'm never going to use the camera (APS, yuck) but the case is just perfect for a Rollei 35.

 

[batterytypehah!]

My own thoughts of the Rollei C 35 and LED models is that they use too much plastic and don't stand up well to hard use, because of the prolific use of plastic. The other Rollei 35 models are more substantial and have fewer mechanical issues.

By the way, the Triotar is a Carl Zeiss design, not a Rollei design, although I think that the final Triotars were branded Rollei (made under license, like the Rollei-branded Tessar). It's a decent triplet, as long as you understand the limits of a triplet.

The poor little things never seem to get much respect from Mike... I like mine just fine.

 

[xxloverxx]

I wouldn't worry about the shutter being tensioned all of the time. Rollei sold millions of the Rollei 35 cameras, and it never seemed to be an issue. In fact, this is one of the issues that never comes up, regarding the mechanics of the camera.

My own thoughts of the Rollei C 35 and LED models is that they use too much plastic and don't stand up well to hard use, because of the prolific use of plastic. The other Rollei 35 models are more substantial and have fewer mechanical issues.

By the way, the Triotar is a Carl Zeiss design, not a Rollei design, although I think that the final Triotars were branded Rollei (made under license, like the Rollei-branded Tessar). It's a decent triplet, as long as you understand the limits of a triplet.

What are the limits of a triplet?

Yes, that's true. When I had my first one many years ago, it took me a long time to find out that those two little marks stand for f8 and f16.

Isn't it in the manual?

I haven't found that to be a problem but then I'm used to scale focusing. My only gripe is that it's virtually impossible to use one-handed. (I think the little thumb lever on the Minox 35 does this better, it's double-stroke but perfectly located.)

By the way, I picked up a Minolta Vectis at a yard sale recently for 50 cents. I'm never going to use the camera (APS, yuck) but the case is just perfect for a Rollei 35.

Not a big fan of cases, but if you could post a photo, I might be convinced otherwise 🙂
Any tips for scale focusing? I'm thinking that unless it's a pretty bright day, I won't be using this for shooting moving people.

The poor little things never seem to get much respect from Mike... I like mine just fine.

Bokeh looks alright!

 

[batterytypehah!]

Not a big fan of cases, but if you could post a photo, I might be convinced otherwise 🙂

It's the one at the very bottom of the Vectis 260 link on this page http://www.submin.com/aps/collection/minolta/
(Gee, I had no idea they also made SLRs in APS format)
I don't have a lens cap or filter for the Rollei, so I do like the case. It's very lightweight and can stay on, just dangling from the wrist strap by its loop.

Any tips for scale focusing? I'm thinking that unless it's a pretty bright day, I won't be using this for shooting moving people.

Practice... I learned the hard way; my photographic youth was spent scale focusing a 50mm lens with 100 speed film. Plenty of info on this subject in older threads here but I'd say the best training is to pre-focus even when you're shooting an RF or SLR camera. Use comparisons, i.e. if you could reach out and touch your subject, you're too close, as that's only about 2 feet. (It will do the old outstretched arm self portrait if you can stop down, but just barely.) If you could lie down, it's about 6 feet. And so on.

 

[xxloverxx]

Wow…that must've been a lot of work, especially with 100.

Will do some searching, thanks.

The case just isn't for me…if I'm to get a case, it's going to be leather 🙂

 

[xxloverxx]

Right, well, today, the camera finally came. In a leather case. With wrist strap.

All brilliant.

The aperture ring has no click stops. That's normal, right? (bit frustrating, to be honest).

The shutter ring's a bit stiff…I'm guessing a few months of use will loosen it up.

The rewind lever, when turned with film inside, will have no effect. Normal, right? It just spins freely until I push the rewind button down?

Flash will fire when there's no battery inside, like the Nikon FM (evil), right?

 

[batterytypehah!]

^ Agreed.

On the B35, the aperture ring has click stops at 3.5, 4, and then half stops up to 22.

Yes, the shutter speed ring is a little stiff. The secret is to use your finger tips from the front (where the ring is knurled), not grab it between thumb and index like you would do on a bigger camera.

Flash should be as you said, although I have never used one. My Rollei came to me with an impact-damaged shoe, anyway.

 

[Mark Wood]

^ Agreed.

On the B35, the aperture ring has click stops at 3.5, 4, and then half stops up to 22.

Yes, the shutter speed ring is a little stiff. The secret is to use your finger tips from the front (where the ring is knurled), not grab it between thumb and index like you would do on a bigger camera.

Flash should be as you said, although I have never used one. My Rollei came to me with an impact-damaged shoe, anyway.

Also with flash, I can recommend using the camera upside down, pressing the shutter release with your thumb (easier than it sounds). Otherwise, particularly with portraits, you'll get the most evil looking shadows behind your subject with rather oddly illuminated nostrils...!

 

[xxloverxx]

Thanks for the quick responses!

Aperture operates properly, but no click stops. By “operates properly”, I mean when I look into the lens, the size of the hole changes appropriately.

Regarding the rewind, it turns freely when the crank is folded in. Something engages when you fold the arm out fully. I guess they had to think of someway to keep the film tight with the rewind crank at the bottom (hence more likely to get messed about with (I guess?))

About the shutter ring…so that's why they serrated the edge of it ^^ I find I can operate all but the film winding with 1 finger on each hand while holding the camera in the usual grip.

I'm just worried I'll accidentally change the aperture someday and mess up the shot.

 

[xxloverxx]

Also with flash, I can recommend using the camera upside down, pressing the shutter release with your thumb (easier than it sounds). Otherwise, particularly with portraits, you'll get the most evil looking shadows behind your subject with rather oddly illuminated nostrils...!

Had a chance to use flash today, at a friend's dance performance. Remembered to get the flash either on top or on the side…hope the photos turn out well.

It did fire fine without the battery.

 

[xxloverxx]

Interesting problem I had yesterday: Flashed 2 photos, then the problem started (dunno if it's still there) — Everytime I wound, the flash fired & the shutter tripped. Turned off the flash & problem went away.

Update: simple issue, simple but fussy solution.

Issue: shutter release just doesn't come back up fully, so when I wind on, it trips.
Solution: after making a photo, with shutter uncocked, press the release all the way down, let go, then wind.

 

[xxloverxx]

Okay, starting to get worried here. Made a photo, wound the film. Shutter tripped itself. Happened 4 more times; on the 5th time, I pressed the shutter release with the shutter uncocked, wound again and it was alright. For now.

Makes me not want to use this camera?

 

[ZeissFan]

One of the gears inside the camera is made of plastic, and if the film advance is forced, it can break a pin that's on the gear. It could be this, or the camera might have another mechanical issue.

My own feeling is that the widespread use of plastic in the gearing was a poor decision. The cameras didn't hold up well to hard use. Rollei also used a plastic gear in a key spot in the Rollei 35T and 35S, and I saw that later cameras reverted to using a metal gear.

There are no click stops on the Rollei 35 LED's aperture ring. It was done to ease setting exposure using the in-viewfinder LEDs.

Personally, I think the cameras are too small to have an in-viewfinder meter system.

A well-designed triplet will give good performance, but wide-open shooting isn't its forte. When stopped down, it will give a sharp photo.

The Triotar is a very good triplet, and I've been very pleased with this lens on a Super Nettel, as well as on an early Rolleicord.

 

[xxloverxx]

I agree; this Triotar is good.