han.s0lo
Member
Hi, I am a college student about to start an introduction to (black and white) photography this coming fall semester. I have been doing photography for about 3 years now. While I am definitely still an amateur and have a lot to learn, I do get very into the technical side of things and I spend most of my free time researching the field to learn more! Anyway, I thought this class would be a great opportunity to get into something that I've had my eye on for a while now: Rangefinder photography.
I currently have a Fujifilm X-Pro1 and have used both full frame and crop body Nikon DSLRs in the past too (I like changing my gear around to keep fresh). I definitely enjoy the xp1 a great deal but after playing around with an Epson R-D1 for a bit, I got the taste for real rangefinder photography.
So my conundrum is based on what gear to get. I definitely have a tendency to think too much about these things, but I have narrowed my choices down a great deal from the research I have done on my own. Here is where I currently sit: For the camera, I think it has to be between the Rollei 35 RF and the Voigtlander Bessa R2A (the ability to do aperture priority would make me consider it over the R2M unless I found a way better deal on the latter).
I am in the weird thought camp that would rather a 40mm lens as my standard over a 35mm or 50mm. So the Voigtlander Bessa R3A/M would be the solution if there wasn't one glaring issue with that camera: I wear thick glasses. I have come across the opinion way too frequently to believe it that the 40mm frame-lines are very hard to see with glasses. Even if I was able to see the edges, I would likely miss out on the other part of the experience that is getting to see outside the frame-lines for composure.
So, I stumbled upon the Rollei 35 RF and have heard it is the best Bessa for eyeglass wearers. The issue is there seems to be a fairly big lack of reading I can do on this camera. I am interested in how it would compare to the Bessa R2M. I am also interested if anyone has any experience with the 40mm f/2.8 Sonnar lens that can be found with it and how that lens stacks against the 40mm Voigtlander Nokton 1.4 lens.
In short, the Rollei seems like a really great solution for me to be able to enjoyably use a 40mm lens. The issue I just have is lack of knowledge about it and also the fact that it is so dang gawdy looking.
My final question is based on the R2A/M. Since I am considering just going with the 35mm Nokton 1.4 and that camera, I wonder how the 35mm frame lines would be for my thick glasses? If they are similarly difficult to see compared to the 40mm framelines on the R3M/A, then I can just forget about that option completely and go with the Rollei.
Thanks for being patient with such a long post; this community is very great and supportive of newcomers, and I really appreciate any answers! Especially considering I have a potential deal waiting for a Rollei 35 RF.
Many thanks,
Ty
I currently have a Fujifilm X-Pro1 and have used both full frame and crop body Nikon DSLRs in the past too (I like changing my gear around to keep fresh). I definitely enjoy the xp1 a great deal but after playing around with an Epson R-D1 for a bit, I got the taste for real rangefinder photography.
So my conundrum is based on what gear to get. I definitely have a tendency to think too much about these things, but I have narrowed my choices down a great deal from the research I have done on my own. Here is where I currently sit: For the camera, I think it has to be between the Rollei 35 RF and the Voigtlander Bessa R2A (the ability to do aperture priority would make me consider it over the R2M unless I found a way better deal on the latter).
I am in the weird thought camp that would rather a 40mm lens as my standard over a 35mm or 50mm. So the Voigtlander Bessa R3A/M would be the solution if there wasn't one glaring issue with that camera: I wear thick glasses. I have come across the opinion way too frequently to believe it that the 40mm frame-lines are very hard to see with glasses. Even if I was able to see the edges, I would likely miss out on the other part of the experience that is getting to see outside the frame-lines for composure.
So, I stumbled upon the Rollei 35 RF and have heard it is the best Bessa for eyeglass wearers. The issue is there seems to be a fairly big lack of reading I can do on this camera. I am interested in how it would compare to the Bessa R2M. I am also interested if anyone has any experience with the 40mm f/2.8 Sonnar lens that can be found with it and how that lens stacks against the 40mm Voigtlander Nokton 1.4 lens.
In short, the Rollei seems like a really great solution for me to be able to enjoyably use a 40mm lens. The issue I just have is lack of knowledge about it and also the fact that it is so dang gawdy looking.
My final question is based on the R2A/M. Since I am considering just going with the 35mm Nokton 1.4 and that camera, I wonder how the 35mm frame lines would be for my thick glasses? If they are similarly difficult to see compared to the 40mm framelines on the R3M/A, then I can just forget about that option completely and go with the Rollei.
Thanks for being patient with such a long post; this community is very great and supportive of newcomers, and I really appreciate any answers! Especially considering I have a potential deal waiting for a Rollei 35 RF.
Many thanks,
Ty
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Can't knock the Cosina/Rollei 35RF, but you just don't seem them around all that often. I've never seen one in the flesh.
40mm is a great "do it all" focal length. I'm sure the Rollei's Zeiss 40mm is a darn good lens.
I have a Leica CL fitted with the M-Rokkor 40mm f/2 II (lens from the Minolta CLE) to fit this niche. It's a great camera. I see a lot more clean Leica CL bodies around and at prices that are considerably lower than Rollei 35RF bodies. The CL viewfinder is set up for a 40mm lens as standard. It has frame lines for 40, 50, 90; you use the full viewfinder for 35.
G
40mm is a great "do it all" focal length. I'm sure the Rollei's Zeiss 40mm is a darn good lens.
I have a Leica CL fitted with the M-Rokkor 40mm f/2 II (lens from the Minolta CLE) to fit this niche. It's a great camera. I see a lot more clean Leica CL bodies around and at prices that are considerably lower than Rollei 35RF bodies. The CL viewfinder is set up for a 40mm lens as standard. It has frame lines for 40, 50, 90; you use the full viewfinder for 35.
G
han.s0lo
Member
Hi,
Thanks for your quick response! That is a camera I considered early on but being new I am worried about my confidence with such a short effective base length (18.9mm or so) for accurate focusing. Especially with the 40mm 1.4 lens.
Have you used the CL with a faster lens ever? Also, how durable is its meter? I've heard some things about getting faulty meters with the camera.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Don't worry too much about dedicated frame lines for 40mm.
Just remeber that RF Framelines will only be 100% (ish) accurate at one single distance set by the factory spec.
All other distances are close enough but one must interpret for close or far distance. Obviously the further away the less issues one will have as the frame loosens up as well as becomes more well adjusted for parallax .
In your cae I would recomend the lower magnification Bessa R2/m/a or Rollei badged model.
I prefer the 1:1 viewfinder of the R3m but... I don't wear glasses. The R2M is the best of that bunch imo.
Simply set the selector for framelines to 35mm and shoot your 40mm there. You will learn to compensate correctly after just a few rolls.
If the distance is in close and you wish to ensure inclusion of a bit extra for insurance you can quickly set the 50mm frameline using your 40mm lens and have room to crop.
It's nothing to worry about. Many of us use a 40mm with some combinatin of estimating betweeen the 35 and 50mm frame lines!
I liked the 40 Sonnar but prefer the CLE M rokkor f2/40mm . It's my favorite RF lens.
Cheers
Just remeber that RF Framelines will only be 100% (ish) accurate at one single distance set by the factory spec.
All other distances are close enough but one must interpret for close or far distance. Obviously the further away the less issues one will have as the frame loosens up as well as becomes more well adjusted for parallax .
In your cae I would recomend the lower magnification Bessa R2/m/a or Rollei badged model.
I prefer the 1:1 viewfinder of the R3m but... I don't wear glasses. The R2M is the best of that bunch imo.
Simply set the selector for framelines to 35mm and shoot your 40mm there. You will learn to compensate correctly after just a few rolls.
If the distance is in close and you wish to ensure inclusion of a bit extra for insurance you can quickly set the 50mm frameline using your 40mm lens and have room to crop.
It's nothing to worry about. Many of us use a 40mm with some combinatin of estimating betweeen the 35 and 50mm frame lines!
I liked the 40 Sonnar but prefer the CLE M rokkor f2/40mm . It's my favorite RF lens.
Cheers
Pioneer
Veteran
Buy a manual camera and forget the aperture priority automatic cameras. It will keep you from getting lazy and letting the camera do your exposure work for you.
The 35mm framelines on the R2M is easy to see with glasses.
I have never used the Rollei so cannot advise regarding that camera.
Your teacher may want you to look for a manual exposure SLR so I would check on that first.
The 35mm framelines on the R2M is easy to see with glasses.
I have never used the Rollei so cannot advise regarding that camera.
Your teacher may want you to look for a manual exposure SLR so I would check on that first.
han.s0lo
Member
I already checked with my professor and he said a rangefinder camera is okay to use. He even said aperture priority is okay to have on the camera as long as I don't use it. I thought it might be hand for personal use but it isn't actually a big deal for me seeing as I am considering the Rollei which does not have any automatic exposure.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Hansolo listen to Obi wan... Get a manual Camera
This will not be your last. It's best to skip the AE and battery dependance.
Teach yourself how to meter with sunny 16 rule and test your eye against a light meter.
I'm so thankful my teacher forced this on us when I was a wee branch!
Cheers!
This will not be your last. It's best to skip the AE and battery dependance.
Teach yourself how to meter with sunny 16 rule and test your eye against a light meter.
I'm so thankful my teacher forced this on us when I was a wee branch!
Cheers!
han.s0lo
Member
Just for the Star Wars reference I will forgo the opportunity of an AE camera and promise on getting the manual option. You are right, the mechanical shutter would be very nice.Hansolo listen to Obi wan... Get a manual Camera
This will not be your last. It's best to skip the AE and battery dependance.
Teach yourself how to meeter with sunny 16 rule and test your eye against a light meter.
I'm so thankful my teacher forced this on us when I was a wee branch!
Cheers!
kallikrates5
Newbie
Just for info I own a Rollei 35RF, complete with the 40mm Sonar and the slightly strange speed winder. I also have 3 Voigtlander lenses that I use with it. The Sonar is an adapted 39mm screw mount so the camera can be used with both 39mm and M Mount lenses. Going to use them with my newly acquired Ufjifil X Pro 1.
mcfingon
Western Australia
Ty,
I had a Rollei 35RF and 40 Sonnar, but sold them to get a Leica M3 and 50 Planar, and eventually a 50 Sonnar, which is my favourite lens. I found the Rollei hard to focus accurately with the 40 Sonnar and I don't wear glasses. I could see the framelines easily but the RF patch wasn't distinct enough to see correct focus for my eyes. The other thing I found was a problem was the fairly loud noise of the metal shutter. The Sonnar 40 wasn't sharp wide-open, so the whole thing didn't go smoothly with this kit for me. I couldn't get the isolated face against a blurry background setup that I can with the M3 and 50 Sonnar. I know you said you are a student, but you may end up spending more if you get a camera that you then trading-in or selling to get a more expensive one later, as I did. A good CLA'ed M3 or M2 will last a long time and hold value well.
I had a Rollei 35RF and 40 Sonnar, but sold them to get a Leica M3 and 50 Planar, and eventually a 50 Sonnar, which is my favourite lens. I found the Rollei hard to focus accurately with the 40 Sonnar and I don't wear glasses. I could see the framelines easily but the RF patch wasn't distinct enough to see correct focus for my eyes. The other thing I found was a problem was the fairly loud noise of the metal shutter. The Sonnar 40 wasn't sharp wide-open, so the whole thing didn't go smoothly with this kit for me. I couldn't get the isolated face against a blurry background setup that I can with the M3 and 50 Sonnar. I know you said you are a student, but you may end up spending more if you get a camera that you then trading-in or selling to get a more expensive one later, as I did. A good CLA'ed M3 or M2 will last a long time and hold value well.