David Murphy
Veteran
I like them. I now own a 35S (Singapore-made), but I've also owned the 35T - both are fine cameras and you can carry them in your pocket. The Sonnar is as sharp as any lens in its focal length class - very impressive.
Some tips: Read the manual carefully -- these are not K1000's. Be sure to pay attention to the film loading process exactly and to remember to cock the shutter before trying to collapse the lens. Most particularly one should thread the film leader all the way through both slits of the take-up spool as shown in the manual.
These cameras are easy and fast to repair (by techs that is) and the meters can be recalibrated to accept alkaline cells (or just blow off the meter). Here's some stuff from my Sonnar using color print film:
Here's one from the Tessar model I used to own using Agfa 400 color print film (as best as I recall):
Here's a link to a manual:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rollei_35/rollie_35/rollie_35-true-htm_page1.htm
Some tips: Read the manual carefully -- these are not K1000's. Be sure to pay attention to the film loading process exactly and to remember to cock the shutter before trying to collapse the lens. Most particularly one should thread the film leader all the way through both slits of the take-up spool as shown in the manual.
These cameras are easy and fast to repair (by techs that is) and the meters can be recalibrated to accept alkaline cells (or just blow off the meter). Here's some stuff from my Sonnar using color print film:
Here's one from the Tessar model I used to own using Agfa 400 color print film (as best as I recall):
Here's a link to a manual:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rollei_35/rollie_35/rollie_35-true-htm_page1.htm
Renzsu
Well-known
Thanks for that link to the manual, I've had some issues with the shutter being cocked, I wasn't used to that so I wondered if I broke it. I just need to get a cell for it..
One question, my lens has some play in it when I extract it.. is that normal or is it supposed to be very rigid?
One question, my lens has some play in it when I extract it.. is that normal or is it supposed to be very rigid?
Jaans
Well-known
Could anyone tell me what the difference is between the Tessar lens and the Sonnar lens?
How do they render black and white especially. Which lens can procure more shadow detail? Which is more contrasty? etc
Thanks in advance>
How do they render black and white especially. Which lens can procure more shadow detail? Which is more contrasty? etc
Thanks in advance>
Al Kaplan
Veteran
The Tessar is a three group four element design, and has less reflective surfaces inside, so it tends to be more contrasty than the more complicated Sonnar design with more elements and internal surfaces. But things aren't that simple! The reflectivity of the diaphragm blades can affect contrast, as well as whether a lens is uncoated, single coated, or multi-coated.
If you want shadow detail then you must expose for the shadows. There's no free ride here! Without that minimum exposure there'll be no picture! The problem is really one of how well the lens can handle highlight detail without blocking up the highlight areas.
"Contrast" consists of two things: overall contrast and micro contrast. You can have just the right relationship between the light and dark AREAS in your photograph while one lens will clearly render the texture of the threads in a fabric while another lens won't. This isn't a matter of resolution. The lens with lower micro contrast might, and often does, have the higher resolution.
http://thepriceofsilver.blogspot.com
If you want shadow detail then you must expose for the shadows. There's no free ride here! Without that minimum exposure there'll be no picture! The problem is really one of how well the lens can handle highlight detail without blocking up the highlight areas.
"Contrast" consists of two things: overall contrast and micro contrast. You can have just the right relationship between the light and dark AREAS in your photograph while one lens will clearly render the texture of the threads in a fabric while another lens won't. This isn't a matter of resolution. The lens with lower micro contrast might, and often does, have the higher resolution.
http://thepriceofsilver.blogspot.com
Which model works best in your opinion?
FrankS
Registered User
definitely the auto thyristor one. the rollei unit model is 121bc but there are tons of similar small 3rd party and other camera make flash units available. the rollei unit offers no special functionality that others don't have. look for a small unit with an auto setting. (one or 2 f-stops)
btw, if anyone has an unused konica hexar af hx-14 flash, please contact me.
btw, if anyone has an unused konica hexar af hx-14 flash, please contact me.
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D.O'K.
Darren O'Keeffe.
Great cameras.
For flash, consider an Olympus T-20 unit or similar. Although this renders the camera much bulkier, it juts forward from underneath and thereby doubles as a really excellent grip for the left hand!
Indeed barring a tripod this is the most stable hold I know of for the camera (although ironically it confers no advantage, given that when flash is used camera shake isn't a problem).
Another minor benefit of the eccentric under-camera flash position is that, if one is taking pictures of people wearing hats, their eyes don't come out in shadow...
Regards,
D.
For flash, consider an Olympus T-20 unit or similar. Although this renders the camera much bulkier, it juts forward from underneath and thereby doubles as a really excellent grip for the left hand!
Indeed barring a tripod this is the most stable hold I know of for the camera (although ironically it confers no advantage, given that when flash is used camera shake isn't a problem).
Another minor benefit of the eccentric under-camera flash position is that, if one is taking pictures of people wearing hats, their eyes don't come out in shadow...
Regards,
D.
David Murphy
Veteran
The Sonnar is also one stop faster than the Tessar - handy for available light. While the Sonnar is definitely sharper especially at faster f-stop settings, the Tessar is an entirely capable lens and makes nice pastel-like "impressionistic looking" images with good contrast and color. Tessar models are less expensive too. Some prefer the Tessar, I like both!
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David Murphy
Veteran
One retracts the lens (from a perspective of facing the camera) and turns the lens clockwise to lock it. It should be well-defined in position with very little play at that point. If it is not, it needs adjustment. I pay $50-65 to have a Rollei 35 serviced (I get discounts) and it is well-worth if you want a solid one. This includes a meter recalibration to use alkaline cells.
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iamzip
Ambitious, but rubbish
I have a couple small Rollei flashes, I think I have the 121BC and the Beta 2. I've also got a small Voightlaender that was meant for their 110 camera.Check out www.rolleiclub.com, they have a pretty good listing.
Phantomas, what is wrong with the shutter? I purchased one off eBay, and the shutter would sometimes close completely but bounce back open a little. I opened it up, and found that the spring which snapped it shut had broken. Replaced it with a spring I made from a guitar string. Not the easiest thing, but if you're mechanically inclined, it's doable.
Phantomas, what is wrong with the shutter? I purchased one off eBay, and the shutter would sometimes close completely but bounce back open a little. I opened it up, and found that the spring which snapped it shut had broken. Replaced it with a spring I made from a guitar string. Not the easiest thing, but if you're mechanically inclined, it's doable.
Renzsu
Well-known
Thanks for the info, I'll give it a shot tonight.
kkdanamatt
Well-known
FrankS
Registered User
sounds like a good idea to me.
Jaans
Well-known
Thanks Al for that detailed insight into both of those lens. I often find myself gawking and wondering about the cool retro design of that camera.
Cheers,
Jaans
easyrider
Photo addict
I have one
I have one
I have one of the original 35s. Bought in Germany in 1969. Still works. I brought if to the last RFF meeting.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26287055@N02/
I use the flash off the camera with a sync cord. A little awkward sometime but the small packages is easy to carry and works well. The flash is an old Braun.
I have one
I have one of the original 35s. Bought in Germany in 1969. Still works. I brought if to the last RFF meeting.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26287055@N02/
I use the flash off the camera with a sync cord. A little awkward sometime but the small packages is easy to carry and works well. The flash is an old Braun.
These are from the Rollei? They look much more "modern" and clear than many other Rollei pics I've seen.
Silver4ever
Newbie
Look for a Vivitar 252 flash on Ebay ...
Look for a Vivitar 252 flash on Ebay ...
I love my Rollei 35S! Actually, I have two: Kodachrome 64 goes into one, Agfa APX 100 in the other. I usually carry them in a fanny pack while commuting by bicycle or cycling for pleasure. These are great manually operated cameras with fantastic optics, and they also accept filters!
Although I don't use them with flash very often, I have a Vivitar 252 unit which nicely complements the size of the Rollei 35. (They are great for fill flash, too, because of their leaf shutters.)
I didn't know how attached I had become to the little Rolleis until last weekend when I was using my Leica M2 and instinctively began flailing the air with my left thumb to advance the film!
Here's a photo I made on Kodachrome 64 last September while cycling:
Look for a Vivitar 252 flash on Ebay ...
I love my Rollei 35S! Actually, I have two: Kodachrome 64 goes into one, Agfa APX 100 in the other. I usually carry them in a fanny pack while commuting by bicycle or cycling for pleasure. These are great manually operated cameras with fantastic optics, and they also accept filters!
Although I don't use them with flash very often, I have a Vivitar 252 unit which nicely complements the size of the Rollei 35. (They are great for fill flash, too, because of their leaf shutters.)
I didn't know how attached I had become to the little Rolleis until last weekend when I was using my Leica M2 and instinctively began flailing the air with my left thumb to advance the film!
Here's a photo I made on Kodachrome 64 last September while cycling:
FrankS
Registered User
not sure what rollei pics you've seen, but a good rollei35 is capable of quality indistinguishable from leica, imo.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
OK you guys are going to get me back to thinking about the Rollei 35, just when that bit of GAS had gone into remission. I have been interested off and on since I bought a copy of Stephen Shore's book of pictures photographed entirely with a Rollei 35.
It does have its drawbacks. Left-hended wind. A system of exposure measurement and setting that one fellow described as a "dog and pony act." Takes a battery you can't get anymore, necessitating a conversion.
Still . . . it's so appealingly small, and just plain cute!
It does have its drawbacks. Left-hended wind. A system of exposure measurement and setting that one fellow described as a "dog and pony act." Takes a battery you can't get anymore, necessitating a conversion.
Still . . . it's so appealingly small, and just plain cute!
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
You could always go for the B model. I just bought reala_fan's and I'm surprised how useful that tiny selenium cell is. Except in low light, of course, but I think all Rollei 35s are best used for daylight shooting.
The Triotar models don't get the respect, but in fact they are surprisingly less quirky than the Tessar and Sonnar. Conventional speed and aperture rings, lens lock and frame counter in more intuitive spots. But, yes, you still wind left-handed. I got used to that very quickly, although it does make one-handed operation impossible. I never bother with a flash.