Rollei 35s - First Impression

robbeiflex

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My Rolleiflex has a little partner now. A few days ago my "new to me" Rollei 35s arrived. It has been converted to 1.5v batteries and had a CLA. It is in excellent working condition. There is already a major dent on one of the top corners, which meant a great price to me and that I won't baby this camera but will use it often. I intend it as my "beater" camera that I can keep in my pocket all of the time, day to day on the way to and from the office, on business trips, and also on bike rides and when snowboarding, hiking, etc.. It's very solid and well made and the ergonomics, although quirky, are oddly similar to the Rolleiflex. In summary, I like it. :D

Big brother initiates little brother with a portrait:
5313311506_4cc15d7aae_z.jpg


Little Brother returns the favour a bit later outdoors:
5312793497_d0eb94fef0_z.jpg


A favourite from the test roll (a very grainy RPX400 at ISO 800 in XTOL):
5313382570_fde540602d_z.jpg


I see that quite a few people here are into these cameras too. You're welcome to post tips and tricks here, as well as photos.

Cheers,
Rob
 
The 35s was always my favourite of all the Rollei 35 cameras I've had. Every one I've owned had a dink on the top plate (usually the corner) and urban myth had it this was because people used to have them swinging from their wrists and inevitably ended up hitting something.

I found I got my best results with fast film (800 asa upwards) where I could use it as a 'snapshot' camera.

Have fun with it.

John
 
As I move from 35mm over to my Rollei 3.5F, I keep wondering about a zone-focusing 35, and of course now I see that this must be the perfect choice. Does anyone have a source the could point me to so that I could make an educated choice of which model to pursue?
 
My big brother Rollei has a Tessar (Xenar) lens and so does the little 35 brother. They go very well together. For some unknown reason all Rollei 35s' have dents on one corner or more. My best tip is to get rid of the battery. The meter is not very good even in as new condition. My second best tip is to use f/8 or f/11 whenever possible. This is not a camera to use f/2.8 in close range unless you use a hand held distance meter.

Use 400 speed film and print the following guide to the back of your camera and you'll be fine (do your math: 1/250 -f/5.6 is the same as 1/60s - f/11).

ISO 400 - Outside:
1/250 - f/11 - bright overcast or regular day
1/250 - f/8 - overcast (indistinct shadow)
1/250 - f/5.6 - heavy overcast (no shadow)
1/250 - f/5.6 - subject is in shade
1/250 - f/4 - sunset
ISO 400 - Inside:
1/60 - f/4 - bright fluorescent light
1/60 - f/4 - subject in window light
1/30 - f/2.8 - subject in brightly lit room
 
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Mablo, thanks for the tips. I have a Gosen Digisix and it shows that the Rollei 35s meter is accurate in daylight and loses accuracy as it gets darker. This is roughly equivalent to my own accuracy on Sunny 16. ;)

I've actually started with ISO 800 exactly for keeping to around f8 or more. :D
 
Everyone, it's a 35 S (35S is OK, too). I know that's really nitpicking. But that's like calling it a Leica cl or Leica m2 or Leica IIIF.

By the way, these are great cameras. But don't bash it. It's a camera that can be used hard but shouldn't be tossed around.
 
ZeissFan: Thanks for the correction, I was not aware that there is a convention on this. I won't edit the posts above but I've updated my Flickr set and descriptions.

Cheers,
Rob
 
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