retinax
Well-known
Hello all,
I thought someone here must know: is there a way to tighten whatever screws hold the tripod socket in the SL66 without much disassembly? No screws are visible in the area.
Thank you!
I thought someone here must know: is there a way to tighten whatever screws hold the tripod socket in the SL66 without much disassembly? No screws are visible in the area.
Thank you!
filedata/fetch?filedataid=119242
filedata/fetch?filedataid=119241
I reckon it's do-able without a strip down, but a bit of effort involved in hand making a tool. I've had a look inside a jammed SL66 body I have here, and also at copy of the service manual.
It's a little tricky. The socket is retained by threaded nut (189) inside the body. This nut is visible just inside the body. You'd need to obtain, or make, a tool able to fit the two notches in the nut in order to tighten it. Problem is, it's hard to get to. The mirror is lifted on the jammed body I have here, so I can't be certain—but I reckon with the finder and screen out and the mirror down, the edge of the mirror will be in the way over the top of the nut, thus, preventing you from accessing it easily through the finder opening. With the mirror up, obviously, it completely blocks the underneath of the screen mounting frame, so that's a no-go, too.
If I needed to do it for myself, I'm sure I could—but it would be a case of setting the shutter to Bulb, locking it open, and then using a tool through the lens mount and/or film gate to tighten the nut. I would probably use a small 1/4" ratchet and modify a suitably sized socket by grinding it short, but leaving two protruding tabs for the slots. A bit of effort (and some hand filing to finish, no doubt). I think I still have some old and cheap Taiwanese or Chinese sockets from the 1980s made of softer than usual tool steel. One of these would be ideal for this task, (because it would not be as challenging to file finish to suit the slots as a premium socket made from high grade tool steel). A pin spanner would be of limited use for this I reckon. There are only two notches, so you can guarantee that at some point, they'll be in the wrong position to get a spanner onto. So you need something small enough to rotate inside the body.
On the other hand—if you are proximate to a repairer who works on Rolleis, there's some chance they've encountered this before. In which case, they'll probably have a suitable tool already, and will be able to fasten it in minutes. Hope this assists.
I reckon it's do-able without a strip down, but a bit of effort involved in hand making a tool. I've had a look inside a jammed SL66 body I have here, and also at copy of the service manual.
It's a little tricky. The socket is retained by threaded nut (189) inside the body. This nut is visible just inside the body. You'd need to obtain, or make, a tool able to fit the two notches in the nut in order to tighten it. Problem is, it's hard to get to. The mirror is lifted on the jammed body I have here, so I can't be certain—but I reckon with the finder and screen out and the mirror down, the edge of the mirror will be in the way over the top of the nut, thus, preventing you from accessing it easily through the finder opening. With the mirror up, obviously, it completely blocks the underneath of the screen mounting frame, so that's a no-go, too.
If I needed to do it for myself, I'm sure I could—but it would be a case of setting the shutter to Bulb, locking it open, and then using a tool through the lens mount and/or film gate to tighten the nut. I would probably use a small 1/4" ratchet and modify a suitably sized socket by grinding it short, but leaving two protruding tabs for the slots. A bit of effort (and some hand filing to finish, no doubt). I think I still have some old and cheap Taiwanese or Chinese sockets from the 1980s made of softer than usual tool steel. One of these would be ideal for this task, (because it would not be as challenging to file finish to suit the slots as a premium socket made from high grade tool steel). A pin spanner would be of limited use for this I reckon. There are only two notches, so you can guarantee that at some point, they'll be in the wrong position to get a spanner onto. So you need something small enough to rotate inside the body.
On the other hand—if you are proximate to a repairer who works on Rolleis, there's some chance they've encountered this before. In which case, they'll probably have a suitable tool already, and will be able to fasten it in minutes. Hope this assists.
I added two images to the previous post. I could see them yesterday after I made the post. I thought these images were helpful. The two "vBulletin" icons still visible above, on the other hand are far less helpful. What's going on?
I've added the relevant images again, below.
I've added the relevant images again, below.
retinax
Well-known
Gotcha, thanks a lot! That the nut would simply be visible in the mirror box just hadn't occurred to me. There's indeed a chance I can find someone who has worked on the SL66, being in its motherland. Your suggestion with the socket also seems doable, although the grinding work would be tedious and I'd think hard about an alternative, perhaps something like a hex nut with something to fit the slots added on, in a socket, if space permits.
x-ray
Veteran
I had 3 SL66’s I used in my commercial studio for nearly thirty years. Any service I had done was done by Jimmy Koh at Koh Camera. Jimmy has retired from repairs except Rollei TLR’s and sold his SL66 tools but if you call him he may have a suggestion. Jimmy is a super nice guy with decades of knowledge and experience repairing the SL66’s.
The images in post 2 that disappeared yesterday, are back again. I have no idea what's going on there.
Anyway: I'm not home at present, so, can't check that SL66 body I have. I don't recall if the screen is easily interchangeable like Eg a 500C/M. If it is—you can try removing it and peering straight down. I suspect the leading edge of the reflex mirror may obstruct access to the nut with it descended for viewing (as I mentioned, the body I have at home is jammed with the mirror up, so I can't check this point, regardless). But, if you *can* sneak a tool past the mirror from above, it's the easy option. All you may need is a cheap, wide blade slot screwdriver, and five minutes with a Dremel. I'd suggest locking with paint, of course, to dissuade the nut coming loose again, or a minuscule amount of non-permanent threadlocker such as Loctite Blue 242.
Otherwise, you may have to proceed as previously outlined.
I have never used Jimmy Koh personally but have a mutual friend and have only ever heard great things about him including from those who have bought Rolleis he repaired, or other items, so I'd second x-ray's recommendation.
Edit: I see you're in Deutschland so Jimmy in NYC perhaps a bit too far afield, nevertheless he's a good guy for sure.
Cheers,
Brett
x-ray
Veteran
Not the right way to fix it but would work, put a couple of drops of super glue on it. If you ever need to remove it a little acetone will do it.