Rolleicord V detail

[OlivierAOP]

I'm restoring a Rolleicord V: replacing the mirror and screen. It's also missing the tab at the rear of the finder assembly. See picture. It's surely linked to the (now missing) hook for the screen clip on the inside, but other than that I have no idea what the part achieves. Hoping someone can shed some light, and in the mean time I'll scour the internet for pictures.

Also I guess the button (red arrow) releases the folding sports finder window? Not currently functional.

It's my first TLR.


20210315_215601 by Olivier, on Flickr

 

[dourbalistar]

I just checked my Rolleicord V and also looked up the manual online. According to the manual, the missing part is the retaining device for the Rolleigrid focusing screen or Rolleikin (35mm adapter) ground glass mask. And yes, the button releases the direct viewfinder flap.

EDIT: p.s. I added some notes to your Flickr image, hope you don't mind.

 

[OlivierAOP]

Haha RTFM right? :bang: Thanks. I should be able to fix it up. I'm guessing the folding window has a rectangular opening on the top right. Mine has broken off.


For the record the screws holding the finder don't appear to be metric. Likely #0-80.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Haha RTFM right? :bang: Thanks. I should be able to fix it up. I'm guessing the folding window has a rectangular opening on the top right. Mine has broken off.


For the record the screws holding the finder don't appear to be metric. Likely #0-80.

The screws certainly should be metric but will likely be British Association pitch.

 

[OlivierAOP]

The screws certainly should be metric but will likely be British Association pitch.

Well I can confirm that #0-80 fits, while neither 1.4mm nor 1.6mm do. #0 is basically 1.5mm but I don't think that's a standard size?

I've 3d printed a tab with a hook for the screen clip, and taped a paper clip to the folding window so that the sports finder can be used (not that I likely will).

 

[Dan Daniel]

Another note about the missing part is that is also serves as the anchor point for a clip that holds the focusing screen in place. So without it, something else is being used to keep the screen stable.


Rollei seemed to use a variety of thread diameters and pitches. Not many screws can be moved to another part on the cameras because of this!

 

[OlivierAOP]

Another to note about the missing part is that is also serves as the anchor point for a clip that holds the focusing screen in place. So without it, something else is being used to keep the screen stable.!

Yes exactly! That was my main concern about the missing tab. The mask function not so much. My replacement part seems to hold the screen clip in place. There was actually only a single clip present, but R. Oleson got me covered for the screen and clip. Nice guy to deal with BTW.

 

[OlivierAOP]

A bit off-topic (sorry OP haha) but here is a 3D-printed rapid film winder for the Rolleicord V. Likely fits other models as long as the knurled knob is 30mm.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798429

 

[dourbalistar]

Yes exactly! That was my main concern about the missing tab. The mask function not so much. My replacement part seems to hold the screen clip in place. There was actually only a single clip present, but R. Oleson got me covered for the screen and clip. Nice guy to deal with BTW.

A bit off-topic (sorry OP haha) but here is a 3D-printed rapid film winder for the Rolleicord V. Likely fits other models as long as the knurled knob is 30mm.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798429

That winding knob is pretty slick! I have a replacement Oleson screen on my Rolleicord V, too. Seems he updated his website recently, looks much better than before. 😀

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

A bit off-topic (sorry OP haha) but here is a 3D-printed rapid film winder for the Rolleicord V. Likely fits other models as long as the knurled knob is 30mm.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798429

Not a good idea. The Rolleicords are very well made cameras, but the wind system is not as durable as a Rolleiflex. If you continually wind one hard until the knob stops, it's a recipe for frame spacing issues, skipping frames and a less smooth action. I have seen a few examples with worn ratchets and counter wheels as a result of being roughly treated over a long time. Sometimes the parts can be carefully re-profiled with miniature files to work acceptably but they are not always as smooth as new afterwards, and new replacement parts are not easy to come by. The Rolleicords are great cameras, but also feature manual shutter cocking. If you are in that much of a hurry to shoot multiple frames, find a camera with a motor drive (or even a Flex).

 

[hap]

Not a good idea. The Rolleicords are very well made cameras, but the wind system is not as durable as a Rolleiflex. If you continually wind one hard until the knob stops, it's a recipe for frame spacing issues, skipping frames and a less smooth action. I have seen a few examples with worn ratchets and counter wheels as a result of being roughly treated over a long time. Sometimes the parts can be carefully re-profiled with miniature files to work acceptably but they are not always as smooth as new afterwards, and new replacement parts are not easy to come by. The Rolleicords are great cameras, but also feature manual shutter cocking. If you are in that much of a hurry to shoot multiple frames, find a camera with a motor drive (or even a Flex).

autocord, just a simple reverse wind and shutter cocked....but it won't do it more than once so no 3 or 4 multiexposures.

 

[Bill Clark]

Perhaps you already know this, but thought I’d mention with the mirror for viewing/focusing on a Rollei camera the coating on the mirror is on the front of the glass. If the coating is on the rear of the glass, like most mirrors, focusing will be off because of the thickness of the glass, from what you see and focus and what the film records.

 

[OlivierAOP]

Not a good idea. The Rolleicords are very well made cameras, but the wind system is not as durable as a Rolleiflex. If you continually wind one hard until the knob stops, it's a recipe for frame spacing issues, skipping frames and a less smooth action. I have seen a few examples with worn ratchets and counter wheels as a result of being roughly treated over a long time. Sometimes the parts can be carefully re-profiled with miniature files to work acceptably but they are not always as smooth as new afterwards, and new replacement parts are not easy to come by. The Rolleicords are great cameras, but also feature manual shutter cocking. If you are in that much of a hurry to shoot multiple frames, find a camera with a motor drive (or even a Flex).

Thanks for the advice, I'll make sure to be gentle. It's not about shooting fast, but about convenience and comfort.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Thanks for the advice, I'll make sure to be gentle. It's not about shooting fast, but about convenience and comfort.

If used accordingly it won't be a problem, of course. It's all about not jamming the knob hard against the ratchet stop and stressing the parts. But having had to repair a few and in one case cannibalise some parts from another example, because the originals were beyond saving, I've seen the effects of prolonged rough treatment. So thought it worth pointing out. 🙂

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

autocord, just a simple reverse wind and shutter cocked....but it won't do it more than once so no 3 or 4 multiexposures.

The discussion was about Rolleicords, specifically the V model, (arguably their best). Nobody (except you, I believe) said anything about Autocords. Good cameras, but I made no reference to them.