kodachrome25
Member
Hello to all Rolleiflex aficionados
I have in the past cleaned and adjusted three Rolleiflex 3.5 bodies and removed the front panels with zero problems
However, on a recently acquired Rolleiflex 2.8E2 (after carefully removing the 4 retaining screws and the flash lock lever) the panel does not lift off the lensboard as expected. It seems to be stuck somewhere around the middle of the panel and I know from previous experience that the shutter speed and aperture dial linkages behind the panel simply drop into the corresponding linkages on the lens board. Shutter speeds and f stops function as indicated. I have looked for any extra hidden screw but found none. The bayonet and name ring surrounding the viewing lens seems a tighter fit than the ring surrounding the taking lens
Has anyone worked on a 2.8E (unmetered) who could throw some light on this problem? Any clues will be hugely appreciated
I have in the past cleaned and adjusted three Rolleiflex 3.5 bodies and removed the front panels with zero problems
However, on a recently acquired Rolleiflex 2.8E2 (after carefully removing the 4 retaining screws and the flash lock lever) the panel does not lift off the lensboard as expected. It seems to be stuck somewhere around the middle of the panel and I know from previous experience that the shutter speed and aperture dial linkages behind the panel simply drop into the corresponding linkages on the lens board. Shutter speeds and f stops function as indicated. I have looked for any extra hidden screw but found none. The bayonet and name ring surrounding the viewing lens seems a tighter fit than the ring surrounding the taking lens
Has anyone worked on a 2.8E (unmetered) who could throw some light on this problem? Any clues will be hugely appreciated
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
Was it maybe dropped at some time in the past, and has slightly bent innards?
This isn't an educated guess. Only a maybe thought. I have a similar E2, similarly unmetered - I read somewhere or was told by someone who would have known, that the E2s didn't come with a meter, those had to be installed separately with an accessory meter from F&H.
I never risked taking any of my Rolleis apart. Thinking as I do that it takes a brave man indeed to try to do a home repair job on a Rolleiflex - and also the reason why I've always bought mine from camera shops,with a warranty, way to many botched home fixe-it models around and repairs can be costly.
Jiggle it around a little - gently! - and see if it loosens. If not, maybe a quick (and one hopes, not too expensive) job for your local/regional camera repair shop.
Legend has it that the E-E2-E3 range were test cameras for the new 2.8F series (not the first Fs which were mid-'50s and more like the older Rolleis), so you could Google for data on dismantling and repairing the Fs.
Hope this helps.
Best of luck.
PS The Es are wonderful cameras, and greatly underrated. I bought mine new in 1966, have had it serviced two times, the last 'fix' was in 2002 just before my Rollei repair person retired. He reset the shutter speeds and those have held firm for 20+ years. The Planar lens on mine has a small egg-shaped separation 'bubble' but this doesn't seem to have any effect on the images, even with a strong loupe I see no signs of degradation in my negatives. So win-win.
This isn't an educated guess. Only a maybe thought. I have a similar E2, similarly unmetered - I read somewhere or was told by someone who would have known, that the E2s didn't come with a meter, those had to be installed separately with an accessory meter from F&H.
I never risked taking any of my Rolleis apart. Thinking as I do that it takes a brave man indeed to try to do a home repair job on a Rolleiflex - and also the reason why I've always bought mine from camera shops,with a warranty, way to many botched home fixe-it models around and repairs can be costly.
Jiggle it around a little - gently! - and see if it loosens. If not, maybe a quick (and one hopes, not too expensive) job for your local/regional camera repair shop.
Legend has it that the E-E2-E3 range were test cameras for the new 2.8F series (not the first Fs which were mid-'50s and more like the older Rolleis), so you could Google for data on dismantling and repairing the Fs.
Hope this helps.
Best of luck.
PS The Es are wonderful cameras, and greatly underrated. I bought mine new in 1966, have had it serviced two times, the last 'fix' was in 2002 just before my Rollei repair person retired. He reset the shutter speeds and those have held firm for 20+ years. The Planar lens on mine has a small egg-shaped separation 'bubble' but this doesn't seem to have any effect on the images, even with a strong loupe I see no signs of degradation in my negatives. So win-win.
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yossi
Well-known
I have quite a few Rolleiflex TLR's, 2.8E included. Other than removing the WLF to install a bright screen, I have never attempted any Rolleiflex repair as I know it is too complex for me 😅
Having said that, I know the fun and satisfaction to DIY repair something. So while I don't have any personal experience to share, I can share one page from the Rolleiflex Repair Manual on 2.8E. Too complex for me but may be a useful reference for you.
(NB: The image will be removed after 3 days.)
Having said that, I know the fun and satisfaction to DIY repair something. So while I don't have any personal experience to share, I can share one page from the Rolleiflex Repair Manual on 2.8E. Too complex for me but may be a useful reference for you.
(NB: The image will be removed after 3 days.)
kodachrome25
Member
Many thanks for your responses. There is no evidence of damage to the camera, the edge of the front cover is perfectly parallel to the body on all four sides. I'll try a bit more wiggling later
kodachrome25
Member
Solution found! The culprit was the steel stud behind the MXV selecter lever whose thread extended through the front cover into the lens board. Its plain surface did not suggest it was a retaining screw but the cross head screw (one of 4 visible) below it simply held the MXV lever back plate.
Now to address the issue of hesitant slow shutter speeds by cleaning and lubricating. Also the depth of field indicator slides in the focus knob were not functioning due to a previous service carried out by a 'well respected Rollei engineer' where the linkage was left unattached
Now to address the issue of hesitant slow shutter speeds by cleaning and lubricating. Also the depth of field indicator slides in the focus knob were not functioning due to a previous service carried out by a 'well respected Rollei engineer' where the linkage was left unattached
ddutchison2
Well-known
Glad you got it solved, you might find the Rolleiflex repair group on FaceBook a useful place to visit:
www.facebook.com/groups/2009701206002863
www.facebook.com/groups/2009701206002863
hap
Well-known
Now fix my 2.8E meter! Nobody in the business won't doing anything.
kodachrome25
Member
I use a number of cameras and exposure meters dating back to the 1960's and 70's with selenium photoelectric cells which all work pretty well. There is a common belief that selenium cells expire over time. However I have found that the number one cause of a non functioning meter is corrosion or surface oxidation on the metal contacts or in the circuitry of the instrument and often not immediately apparent to visual inspection.
So if you are brave enough, I can suggest you remove the meter unit from the focus knob of you Rolleiflex 2.8E, using a narrow flat tipped jewellers screwdriver on the two screws that secure it. Then polish the brass contacts on the back of the unit and inside the focus knob with a pencil eraser and also wipe clean with a solvent like isopropyl alcohol or even lighter fluid. There might be a slightly domed contact in the focus knob which is spring loaded which may not make perfect contact with the meter unit. This was the case on a 3.5F I restored
So if you are brave enough, I can suggest you remove the meter unit from the focus knob of you Rolleiflex 2.8E, using a narrow flat tipped jewellers screwdriver on the two screws that secure it. Then polish the brass contacts on the back of the unit and inside the focus knob with a pencil eraser and also wipe clean with a solvent like isopropyl alcohol or even lighter fluid. There might be a slightly domed contact in the focus knob which is spring loaded which may not make perfect contact with the meter unit. This was the case on a 3.5F I restored