Austintatious
Well-known
These look quite nice !
A bit better that the first batch, posted above. I think you are getting the hang of it
A bit better that the first batch, posted above. I think you are getting the hang of it
Naumoski
Well-known
These look quite nice !
A bit better that the first batch, posted above. I think you are getting the hang of it
I appreciate it!
I think I'm getting more used to it and the whole workflow with the camera, but still I need to work more on that.
This film is such a garbage when shooting in tricky lighting. But I think to go more B&W in future.
Brian Levy
Established
I was wondering if you have glasses as many seem to be slightly unsharp, a possible focusing problem. It might be the viewing and taking lens are not quite aligned, something that can happen with the Rolleiflex if banged about a bit. Depending on the tech, checking this is or is not part of a servicing.
Also, do you use glasses? If so you may need to adjust for this. The built in magnifier may need to be changed out to meet your individual needs. I was thinking of this since the prior owner's shots seem more in focus. But, it might be simply a learing curve issue for you also, take your time in setting up the shots and like Santa's list keep checking the focus not once but twice.
Are you using a meter? It seems the ev of most of your shots is of or possibly the develop you are using is messing up the development. I had this happen with me. I used a local store that is part of a chain and the negatives were thin and flat. I thoguhtI was screwing it all up, I'd lost my touch but then decided to take 2 rolls of a shoot and have 1 roll developed at that shop and took the other to another shop and it was night and day in results. The chain store results were thin and dead while the other was near spot on technically. Same film, exposure meter, camera, lens, etc. so it was the store.
Also, do you use glasses? If so you may need to adjust for this. The built in magnifier may need to be changed out to meet your individual needs. I was thinking of this since the prior owner's shots seem more in focus. But, it might be simply a learing curve issue for you also, take your time in setting up the shots and like Santa's list keep checking the focus not once but twice.
Are you using a meter? It seems the ev of most of your shots is of or possibly the develop you are using is messing up the development. I had this happen with me. I used a local store that is part of a chain and the negatives were thin and flat. I thoguhtI was screwing it all up, I'd lost my touch but then decided to take 2 rolls of a shoot and have 1 roll developed at that shop and took the other to another shop and it was night and day in results. The chain store results were thin and dead while the other was near spot on technically. Same film, exposure meter, camera, lens, etc. so it was the store.
Naumoski
Well-known
Brian,
Thanx for the suggestions first,
About focusing - the viewfinder is not that clear and it's not that visible, it's enough OK for old camera, so the focusing is tricky. I also see that on some shots the focus is not the exact place, but that might be more due to changing the camera angle to get the horizontals right, and also some motion blur on some. I don't wear glasses.
On metering - I used a P&S camera, set to 80iso, the photos with the girl in the field (and others) are mostly overexposed because I shot against the sun, also expired portra wants some more light as well.
The owner's shots are edited and might be sharpened, also most of them are shot above f/8.
I saw that the hole for tripod is larger on Rolleiflex and doesn't suit on a regular tripod, is there some tip to make this up?
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Mablo
Well-known
There are tripod adapters available in well equipped photo shops. If you don't find any I can send you one. You can buy a new screen for $30 from Rick Oleson (google by his name). In the meantime just stop down to f/11 or f/16.
Naumoski
Well-known
Thank you!
I don't believe that I can find adapter for tripod here. Can you tell me how much they cost, and how they look? Maybe it would be better to search in some old photo labs here, maybe some old photographers could have such thing?
I wouldn't get in such mess by installing new screen for now, maybe in future
Indeed, first I will need to get some faster film like T-max 400 to be able to close the aperture a bit more on sunsets and all.
Mablo
Well-known
Like this one (see the pic). They cost 1€ a piece here.
If you can't find one, just send me your name and address by PM and I'll send you one in a letter.
If you can't find one, just send me your name and address by PM and I'll send you one in a letter.
Naumoski
Well-known
Thanx Mablo, I will search tomorrow for the adapter, and If I can't find any I will write you.
Btw, how much the hood for the rollei would be helpful against light flare?
This is not not like those expensive metal hood, but will it feet my rollei, which is Bay II: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003G8MRDQ...e=395261&creativeASIN=B003G8MRDQ&linkCode=asn ?
Brian Levy
Established
The Bay I hood I have are plastic with metal mounts so similar construction. The one you show seems to be not as high/tall as the OEM so it may or maynot be as effective but the price is right, so worth the try. I thas to be better than none.
Mablo
Well-known
A hood is essential and helps a lot. Bay-II (as Bay-I and Bay-III ) is a universal mount whatever the brand and fits perfectly to your Rollei. Get it and use it.
One more neat trick for focusing. I sometimes use a cheap plastic magnifier plate you can find at book shops or office supply shops. Helps a lot in tricky situations.
One more neat trick for focusing. I sometimes use a cheap plastic magnifier plate you can find at book shops or office supply shops. Helps a lot in tricky situations.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
Looks like things are getting sorted - at least some of the possibilities are being eliminated.
You've already been told that colour negative film, or B&W, has more exposure latitude than reversal film. The film you're using requires quite precise exposure for best results and you really need to get a light meter. Also you mention the film is out of date. That's another reason why your results are not as good as you might expect.
If your filter or lens has much dust or haze then shooting into the light is going to give you continuing problems until you are able to get them cleaned. The photos the seller took seem sharp enough so I think it's got a lot to do with your film and technique.
Get fresh, non-reversal film, leave the filter off, and try shooting with the light coming from 90 degrees right or left, or behind. Later you can experiment with contre-jour again.
Also, shooting against the light gives me problems with my Rolleiflex at times. I use a lens hood in those circumstances and even then it's not a guarantee against flare.
You've already been told that colour negative film, or B&W, has more exposure latitude than reversal film. The film you're using requires quite precise exposure for best results and you really need to get a light meter. Also you mention the film is out of date. That's another reason why your results are not as good as you might expect.
If your filter or lens has much dust or haze then shooting into the light is going to give you continuing problems until you are able to get them cleaned. The photos the seller took seem sharp enough so I think it's got a lot to do with your film and technique.
Get fresh, non-reversal film, leave the filter off, and try shooting with the light coming from 90 degrees right or left, or behind. Later you can experiment with contre-jour again.
Also, shooting against the light gives me problems with my Rolleiflex at times. I use a lens hood in those circumstances and even then it's not a guarantee against flare.
Naumoski
Well-known
Brian, Mablo, Leigh..
I think to get that hood. Also in the 2nd roll there is still some flare which result as low contrast.
I don't mind the hood being made from plastic, that's just accessories and if they will do the job, why I wouldn't be satisfied.
On 2nd roll I didn't used the filter at all.
I expected such results from the expired film, indeed I had much better color results from Portra VC in 35mm. However, I am tired of correcting color from expired film, so I really think of getting to learn developing B&W film in future.
A magnifier plate seams to be easy and clever thing, I'll have that on mind.
I cleaned the loupes, viewing screen, both lens some day ago before putting B&W film into it, so now the focusing is little easier. But that 30 bucks screen looks thrilling, so i'll have that on mind too.
I believe that shooting with sun on side, closing apperture, faster shutter speeds, and more precise composing/focusing will give better results, so my next try will cover all of this
But shooting against light is very beautiful thing as well
I think to get that hood. Also in the 2nd roll there is still some flare which result as low contrast.
I don't mind the hood being made from plastic, that's just accessories and if they will do the job, why I wouldn't be satisfied.
On 2nd roll I didn't used the filter at all.
I expected such results from the expired film, indeed I had much better color results from Portra VC in 35mm. However, I am tired of correcting color from expired film, so I really think of getting to learn developing B&W film in future.
A magnifier plate seams to be easy and clever thing, I'll have that on mind.
I cleaned the loupes, viewing screen, both lens some day ago before putting B&W film into it, so now the focusing is little easier. But that 30 bucks screen looks thrilling, so i'll have that on mind too.
I believe that shooting with sun on side, closing apperture, faster shutter speeds, and more precise composing/focusing will give better results, so my next try will cover all of this
But shooting against light is very beautiful thing as well
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
But shooting against light is very beautiful thing as well
I agree, and some of your shots were starting to look very nice taken that way. Again, a meter will help you assess the range of light values in the whole subject area and you will be able to make better judgements about whether you want the background or the subject to be the more correctly exposed area, and set the camera controls accordingly. But cleanliness of the lens surfaces is most important with that type of shot or you get scattered light all over the place. Also, direct sunlight into the lens of a Rolleiflex frequently gives problems with light bleed between frames. You'll see it if it happens - the clear space between some frames is partly blocked up by exposure to strong light. So you need to make sure the actual point source of the light is concealed in some way - by a body or a tree or something.
Naumoski
Well-known
Leigh,
It's good to know this stuff. I will try to avoid direct sunlight into the lens.
Also, a lightmeter could help much, for now P&S or DSLR metering will help enough I think, but I will need a lightmeter in future so, step by step.
Thanx!
It's good to know this stuff. I will try to avoid direct sunlight into the lens.
Also, a lightmeter could help much, for now P&S or DSLR metering will help enough I think, but I will need a lightmeter in future so, step by step.
Thanx!
Roger Vadim
Well-known
Beautifull photos!
shoot more before you get too drawn into needing this and that!
I really like them, your camera (and yourself) obviously got character.
oh yes: and nothing wrong with shooting into the sun!
I remember my moms advise from her 50s photography book not to shoot into the sun and to have sun in your back when shooting, resulting in the most borring family shoots imaginable...
shoot more before you get too drawn into needing this and that!
I really like them, your camera (and yourself) obviously got character.
oh yes: and nothing wrong with shooting into the sun!
I remember my moms advise from her 50s photography book not to shoot into the sun and to have sun in your back when shooting, resulting in the most borring family shoots imaginable...
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Naumoski
Well-known
Thanx Roger,
Indeed, the family photos really can be made more artistically - in which mood I'm am from this year, and I'm photographing my family when we go on trips etc, using expired film and print the images, which give special look, maybe a bit nostalgic, and the whole album have it's own character due the film/light/camera/format etc.
Naumoski
Well-known
When you have love for creating and presenting stories, music, creating mood, relationship distances, square:
Where I End and You Begin.
"There's a gap in between
There's a gap where we meet
Where I end and you begin"
- Radiohead
Where I End and You Begin.
"There's a gap in between
There's a gap where we meet
Where I end and you begin"
- Radiohead
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
When you have love for creating and presenting stories, music, creating mood, relationship distances, square:
Where I End and You Begin.
"There's a gap in between
There's a gap where we meet
Where I end and you begin"
- Radiohead
Those are really nice shots! The last one especially appeals to me.
Now, on a technical note, did you take these at full aperture? The reason I ask is that I seem to detect slight vignetting in the corners of the images. Not that there's anything wrong with that - I quite like the effect myself - but it seems to be a frequently observed characteristic of older lenses at full aperture and I just wondered if that was likely to be the reason? I've certainly seen it much stronger than that on some old Voigtlander folding cameras I had. Not a criticism - just an observation.
Naumoski
Well-known
I love making short stories and present them in diptychs and triptychs.
First two were on f/5.6, and the third was on f/3.5 (open wide).
But I add slightly vignette to the first two to darken them a bit and to make them closer the look and the mood of the third photo.
I like the vignette, it really gives a character, but sometimes vignetting can be very unpleasant if it's very dark and strong - just my personal taste.
Fell free to write anything, especially something that can lead to conversation
kermaier
Well-known
For tripod mounting, I find a Rolleifix adapter extremely useful (a kind of quick-release plate for Rolleiflex TLRs). Here's one on eBay for example. You leave the Rolleifix attached to your tripod, and you can quickly mount the camera when you need to.
::Ari
::Ari