Rolleiflex TLR blur caused by shutter release issue

[doctorpepe]

Seeking input on a shutter release issue with all my rolleiflex TLRs.

I am a seasoned photographer (over 50 yrs) having owned MANY different cameras. I am very steady with most and can hand hold down to 1/5 sec in most conditions without tremors even in my late 60’s. My steadiness/ability is enhanced by using cameras with a shutter release that is short-throw, even my 120 SLRs.

My Rollei TLRs all have a release that seems very “long” so that when I squeeze the release, the shutter won’t fire until it reaches the very end of the “press” and this process results in a small “jerk” with an accompanying image blur.

I have tried multiple hand positions using index finger, middle finger, thumb all with this same dilemma whether at waist-level or eye level. . All Rolleis have been expertly serviced and the releases are smooth without a catch, just very long in comparison with other cameras. I have added soft releases, other implements with same results.

As it seems to be a long shutter release throw issue, I thought about having the release modified to have a shorter throw (much like having a “hair trigger” on a pistol) but did not know if anyone else has this issue or tried another modification. One such thought was to add a short pin into the cable socket so that the shutter release would be in a “1/2” fired position, but haven’t tried this yet.

Opinions requested and valued. Thanx in advance.

 

[TenEleven]

First of all I'm a night shooter - especially with my Rolleiflexes - like you I have very steady hands and could shoot down to 1s Handheld when kneeling or supporting myself otherwise - now that's probably down to a still-respectable 1/4th of a second.

I have never found a problem with the Rolleiflexes long release. It is indeed quite a long throw until the camera fires, so I just slowly push the shutter inwards with a steady motion* while making sure that I have exhaled before. I have the camera hung from my neck, with the strap pulled down taut, it is also cradled in both hands while the right index finger does the releasing.

I found that the horizontal release helps me a lot to remain steady. It's a lot harder to keep the camera steady if you have to press downwards on it along with gravity.

Lastly, I am quite sure that the release point of all modern (meaning post-war) Rolleiflex cameras is customizable and can be set to any point the photographer desires. I'm sure that Harry Fleenor or others would be up to the task of doing this for you.

*Edit: If the camera is well serviced the shutter release should travel smoothly without the slightest hitch or catch until it fires. If it doesn't that can indeed lead to extra shake as you automatically increase pressure to overcome the extra friction.

 

[Nitroplait]

Just took a look at 3 of my Rolleiflexes and they all seem to have a long throw (all serviced in the past 10 years by different techs) - so I guess that is normal. However it is not something that I have paid attention to before, probably because I rarely shoot handheld below 1/30.
I am personally very reluctant about sending in fully functioning cameras for service as opening the camera also opens the possibility of other things going wrong, thus I would first try out the idea of constructing the "1/2 fired" pin you mention.

 

[Doug A]

I have the same issue with my 3.5MX-EVS. I think the problem is not so much the long throw as the lack of any warning that the shutter is about to fire. Several of my other cameras also have long throws but there is a slight increase in resistance just before the shutter fires. When I reach that point with these cameras I think not about moving my finger any more but rather about increasing the pressure on the release button. To get around the issue with the Rollei I sometimes use the self timer or a very short cable release.

 

[Rob-F]

I think that the steadiest way to shoot is to be able to "squeeze off a round," the way you can when you can apply equal pressure to both the shutter button and the back or bottom side of the camera. One example is to have the bottom of a Leica or other 35mm camera in the palm of your hand, your finger on the shutter, and you are squeezing up from the bottom just as much as down from the top. Another good example is with the Hasselblad SWC: here again, you squeeze down from the top on the shutter, and up from the bottom. And with the Rolleiflex T, with the camera sitting in the palm of your left hand, the sideways action of the shutter release lets you squeeze the shutter in the direction of your palm. For me, the problem with the Rollei, front-to back direction of the shutter release is that it's hard to find a way to support he camera from behind while pushing the button from the front--no matter which hand you use on the shutter button, there is some jerking as you press the shutter. I think holding the camera in the palm of the left hand minimizes the jerking, even if it doesn't completely eliminate it. I do find it easier to hold steady my Hasselblad 500CM, which seems to stay more solid in my (left) hand than does the Rollei. I think its lower center of gravity makes a difference.

 

[vitaly66]

Yes, support the camera from the bottom in the palm of the left hand. With the right hand, squeeze the shutter release with the index finger, while simultaneously holding/squeezing with the right thumb on the back of the camera. The squeezing of the finger and thumb should be balanced with even pressure, so as to cause no movement of the camera.

The T is similar. Support the camera from the bottom in the left hand. This time, thumb on the shutter release, with the index finger on the flash socket opposite. Squeeze thumb and index finger together with even balanced pressure.

In either case it may take some practice, learning to squeeze thumb and finger together smoothly. Avoid "stabbing" the shutter release. Keep trying, you'll get the hang of it!

 

[nikon_sam]

I'm not familiar with your camera and have no idea if it can take a cable release...but I have one cable release that will allow me to adjust how far the pin/plunger sticks out beyond the threaded part...something like this could shorten your trip point and there'd be no added shake while firing...

 

[Pál_K]

Shakiness was a problem I thought I would have with my Rolleiflexes. I’ve used Hasselblads and RB67’s handheld without blur, but my speeds in those cases were 1/30 and above.

With my Rolleiflexes, handheld and without a strap, I would exhale and hold the camera against my chest/lower belly. Every time I tripped the shutter, I had the sensation that I wasn’t steady at the time of release, but the photos were surprisingly fine. Again, this was 1/30 and faster.

 

[Richard G]

I was surprised how poor my slow shots with the TLR have been. I've tried the taut strap and the chest application of the camera back and only this shot has worked for me, 1/15s seated in a chair with my left elbow probably stabilising things on the arm of the chair. With Leicas I can stablisize the camera on my forehead. I can get very sharp pictures at 1/4s or 1/6s shooting from my hip - hip bone, quite often, but haven't tried that with the Rollei.


Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 Xenar 1/15s TRI-X by Richard, on Flickr

 

[lynnb]

I find a short cable release solves the problem. If I remember to take it with me.

 

[swatch]

I have the 2.8FX and the shutter release not only a long throw but there is mid-way resistance require a further push with little force before reaching the mechanic firing of shutter. Would CLA make the shutter release become smooth?

 

[swatch]

Could shutter release of FX be replaced by shutter release of earlier model i.e. D or E ?

 

[DownUnder]

I was surprised how poor my slow shots with the TLR have been. I've tried the taut strap and the chest application of the camera back and only this shot has worked for me, 1/15s seated in a chair with my left elbow probably stabilising things on the arm of the chair. With Leicas I can stablisize the camera on my forehead. I can get very sharp pictures at 1/4s or 1/6s shooting from my hip - hip bone, quite often, but haven't tried that with the Rollei.

Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 Xenar 1/15s TRI-X by Richard, on Flickr

A wonderful cat portrait. Feline full of character. You captured his (or her?) personality so well.

Those of us of "a certain age" (and I am certain there, ha!) need all the accessories we can get. Cable releases and monopods/tripods.

Of my four Rolleis, my two 'flex Ts are easiest to use hand held. The 3.5E2 I bought new in 1966 and still use now and then had a sticky shutter button for three decades plus until I had it serviced. It came back to me (from the legendary Heinz in Melbourne, who retired in 2003 and is sadly missed) with the button working as softly as a marshmallow, for which I have been ever thankful.

My Rolleicord Vb, which I otherwise love to bits, is a great annoyanceI with that horrible left-right push-pull lever. I've long wanted to buy the 'cord accessory shutter release, but Ebay prices are now totally ridiculous for this item, a year ago they were A$50 and now they are way past A$100. No way...

Age wearies us all in the long run. Careful attention to our shooting is a must. Also a tripod and cable releases. No other way. Alas, but that's how it is.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

A wonderful cat portrait. Feline full of character. You captured his (or her?) personality so well.

Those of us of "a certain age" (and I am certain there, ha!) need all the accessories we can get. Cable releases and monopods/tripods.

Of my four Rolleis, my two 'flex Ts are easiest to use hand held. The 3.5E2 I bought new in 1966 and still use now and then had a sticky shutter button for three decades plus until I had it serviced. It came back to me (from the legendary Heinz in Melbourne, who retired in 2003 and is sadly missed) with the button working as softly as a marshmallow, for which I have been ever thankful.

My Rolleicord Vb, which I otherwise love to bits, is a great annoyanceI with that horrible left-right push-pull lever. I've long wanted to buy the 'cord accessory shutter release, but Ebay prices are now totally ridiculous for this item, a year ago they were A$50 and now they are way past A$100. No way...

Age wearies us all in the long run. Careful attention to our shooting is a must. Also a tripod and cable releases. No other way. Alas, but that's how it is.

If you'd like to contact me via private message I may be able to assist apropos an accessory Rolleicord shutter release.
Regards,
Brett

 

[OlivierAOP]

I got a facsimile "lens shutter release" on eBay for my Rolleicord (about $40). It's not there anymore but there are some similar buttons in brass that should work.

 

[DownUnder]

If you'd like to contact me via private message I may be able to assist apropos an accessory Rolleicord shutter release.
Regards,
Brett

Will do. I'PM sent. Thanks!!

I got a facsimile "lens shutter release" on eBay for my Rolleicord (about $40). It's not there anymore but there are some similar buttons in brass that should work.

Many thanks for this. It's something I can follow up. I did check Ebay Australia for this accessory, and found two items on sale from China sellers for prices too high for me to consider. But it's one option to be considered. Appreciate your post.

 

[doctorpepe]

I am the OP for this thread. Thank you all for so many ideas and confirmations that I am not the only one with some problems with the design/throw of the shutter release that did not allow me to fire reliably at the “decisive moment” (borrowed from HCB).

I did find a solution that has actually worked for me so I am passing it along. I don’t like to use a cable release or pistol grip and I had tried various shutter buttons with little success. However, all the buttons were conCAVE and did not allow me to roll my finger off the camera frame, across this button and achieve reliable results.

I finally decided to try a small convex button which, oddly enough, was just a few mm above the frame of the lens mount and allowed me to roll my trigger finger right across the shutter release.

I have attached a photo of the item on one of my Rolleis. They come in all kinds of colors (don’t like red but that’s all that was in stock!)

 

[john_s]

The convex button looks interesting. I have a GX which is well known to have not such a smooth release (it does have a very good meter though). It's the only camera I've ever had that I find difficult. I did try a concave button (requiring a little ground off the back to avoid hitting part of the camera) but it didn't help much, if at all. I will look for a convex one. Thanks.

 

[nikon_sam]

I bought a set of these buttons off ebay...I got one convex and one concave...I put the concave one on my Olympus rangefinder and convex one on my Nikon F3...

 

[CLAdictic]

Seeking input on a shutter release issue with all my rolleiflex TLRs.

I am a seasoned photographer (over 50 yrs) having owned MANY different cameras. I am very steady with most and can hand hold down to 1/5 sec in most conditions without tremors even in my late 60’s. My steadiness/ability is enhanced by using cameras with a shutter release that is short-throw, even my 120 SLRs.

My Rollei TLRs all have a release that seems very “long” so that when I squeeze the release, the shutter won’t fire until it reaches the very end of the “press” and this process results in a small “jerk” with an accompanying image blur.

I have tried multiple hand positions using index finger, middle finger, thumb all with this same dilemma whether at waist-level or eye level. . All Rolleis have been expertly serviced and the releases are smooth without a catch, just very long in comparison with other cameras. I have added soft releases, other implements with same results.

As it seems to be a long shutter release throw issue, I thought about having the release modified to have a shorter throw (much like having a “hair trigger” on a pistol) but did not know if anyone else has this issue or tried another modification. One such thought was to add a short pin into the cable socket so that the shutter release would be in a “1/2” fired position, but haven’t tried this yet.

Opinions requested and valued. Thanx in advance.

Since I just turned 80, maybe I have gained a little insight. I've had my 3.5f since the early 90's. I found that the shutter release button is slow, to correct that I began using a six-inch semi-flexible cable release. Problem solved.