PMCC
Late adopter.
Objectively the difference is about 20%. The way to tell is to carry and use each. You'll know whether it makes a difference to you. Although the basic size and shape is the same, the 'flex has more prominent protrusions -- esp. if meter equipped -- that can add to the physical experience. It's a trade-off, depending also on what you need. Hey, get one of each. 
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Objectively the difference is about 20%. The way to tell is to carry and use each. You'll know whether it makes a difference to you. Although the basic size and shape is the same, the 'flex has more prominent protrusions -- esp. if meter equipped -- that can add to the physical experience. It's a trade-off, depending also on what you need. Hey, get one of each.![]()
I had noticed the meter protrusion, but since I'd rather have a meter-less one, that shouldn't matter ( unless I get one with a broken meter... ).
And yes, I probably should just get one of each, but the days when I could buy things like that without really thinking too much about the cost are over and done with, I'm sad to say
edodo
Well-known
Rolleicords are a joy to use, because they are light! (really lighter than the 2.8) Also the 3.5F is as heavy than the 2.8, get the 2.8!
The trade off is the neck strap attachement, the auto loading, tripod shoe (on the cord III it is incompatible with the Rolleifix), the cord III doesn't have the double exposure protection.
Rolleicords are old! I love the rolleicord III which is great but the taking lens was foggy, so I had it polished and coated. Now it is really sharp!
If you don't want to face the "old lenses" problems, go for the rolleicord V. The Vb version is the better one because you could DIY replace the focusing screen with the mamiya RB screen on the cheap. While any other Cords will have to go to the Tech in order to tune the focus if you change the screen.
The CLA is something to really consider, and it puts the budget of any Rollei TLR around 400/500. Try to find a good one already CLAd.
The trade off is the neck strap attachement, the auto loading, tripod shoe (on the cord III it is incompatible with the Rolleifix), the cord III doesn't have the double exposure protection.
Rolleicords are old! I love the rolleicord III which is great but the taking lens was foggy, so I had it polished and coated. Now it is really sharp!
If you don't want to face the "old lenses" problems, go for the rolleicord V. The Vb version is the better one because you could DIY replace the focusing screen with the mamiya RB screen on the cheap. While any other Cords will have to go to the Tech in order to tune the focus if you change the screen.
The CLA is something to really consider, and it puts the budget of any Rollei TLR around 400/500. Try to find a good one already CLAd.
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PMCC
Late adopter.
If you don't want to face the "old lenses" problems, go for the rolleicord V. The Vb version is the better one because you could DIY replace the focusing screen with the mamiya RB screen on the cheap. While any other Cords will have to go to the Tech in order to tune the focus if you change the screen.
As previously mentioned, the Rolleicord V is the last of the right hand knob focus models, the handling of which some like better. The Va and Vb changed over to left hand focus. The V is noticeably cheaper than the Vb with its 'removable' WLF. Removing the 'fixed' WLF of the V requires taking out four screws, and a perfectly good pre-fitted and compatible replacement fresnel screen is available from Rick Oleson at $30, delivered. The Vb requires the larger Mamiya RB67 screen, which last I checked goes for about $80 new and has to be cut down and fitted to size. Maybe not as easy as removing four screws.
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micek
Member
Rolleicord V
Rolleicord V
I have a Rolleicord V with a Maxwell screen. It is a delight to use, light and compact. I bought a Rolleiflex GX because I wanted to "upgrade". It turned out to be much heavier and no easier in use really, and at the size I usually print (12x12") I honestly could not tell the difference between one camera and the other. I have since sold the GX.
Rolleicord V
I have a Rolleicord V with a Maxwell screen. It is a delight to use, light and compact. I bought a Rolleiflex GX because I wanted to "upgrade". It turned out to be much heavier and no easier in use really, and at the size I usually print (12x12") I honestly could not tell the difference between one camera and the other. I have since sold the GX.
robklurfield
eclipse
I have a Rolleicord V with a Maxwell screen. It is a delight to use, light and compact. I bought a Rolleiflex GX because I wanted to "upgrade". It turned out to be much heavier and no easier in use really, and at the size I usually print (12x12") I honestly could not tell the difference between one camera and the other. I have since sold the GX.
This post makes me feel good. I am waiting for my first TLR to arrive. I went with a Rolleicord IV A.
Frank Petronio
Well-known
After owning several Flexes and a couple of Cords, if the medium format bug hit me again I would look for an earlier Rolleiflex -- a C -- in f/2.8 -- and send it off for a CLA and an upgraded screen. The older ones have rounded apertures and a simpler design, plus they aren't as expensive as the later F-series. I think their lenses would lend themselves to wide-open shooting with "character".
With the later ones, the difference between the Schneider and Zeiss lenses is a toss-up. But with the older ones I would try to get a Zeiss, since Schneider's quality control got better during the 50s, whilst Zeiss always had good quality control.
The meterless E-series is really the best value if you are set on a "modern" Rolleiflex. The meter is a bulky, delicate PITA that you won't use, but it will be unsightly if you bust the brittle plastic shell.
I liked the Rolleicord Vb I had for carrying but the film handling and focusing is not as convenient -- but the build quality seemed just as good as the Flex, only more basic.
With the later ones, the difference between the Schneider and Zeiss lenses is a toss-up. But with the older ones I would try to get a Zeiss, since Schneider's quality control got better during the 50s, whilst Zeiss always had good quality control.
The meterless E-series is really the best value if you are set on a "modern" Rolleiflex. The meter is a bulky, delicate PITA that you won't use, but it will be unsightly if you bust the brittle plastic shell.
I liked the Rolleicord Vb I had for carrying but the film handling and focusing is not as convenient -- but the build quality seemed just as good as the Flex, only more basic.
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jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Sorry - I'm not trying to keep the thread going for no reason, but I wanted to know how the shutter of the Rolleicords from the V models on fire - with the lever or with a button?
Thanks,
JP
Thanks,
JP
PMCC
Late adopter.
Fair question. If you have the auxilliary shutter release extension (screws into cable release socket), you have the option of (left hand) push-button release. Without it, you can only release the shutter with the cocking lever. Either way works fine, it's a matter of personal preference. Some prefer to use a short cable release.
Paddy C
Unused film collector
Missed this thread two weeks ago but I'll add to it in the event someone finds it useful when debating which to purchase.
I own a Rolleicord VB and Rolleiflex 2.8F. After owning these for many years I can summarize as follows...
1. The flex feels substantially heavier than the cord (to me it's a big difference). I ended up buying a crumpler padded strap which helps. It does weigh on you if you are carrying it around for any length of time. The cord not really.
2. They are equally solid, equally well-built. Both are beautiful examples of manufacturing and design that I doubt we'll ever see again in a camera.
3. How often do you need 2.8? I can't recall when I've really needed it. These, IMO, aren't low-light cameras. So think about saving money by foregoing the 2.8 models. I did read that the slower lenses were sharper at one point (don't really know if that's the case however).
4. There is absolutely no question that the film winding/shutter cocking advance of the flex is superior. But then again, these aren't fast action cameras IMO.
5. The built in meter is useless. So don't make that a priority. If you can find one that's even accurate anymore.
6. Both have great lenses. Both will produce great results.
You will be very happy with a good cord and, if you save some money, all the better.
I own a Rolleicord VB and Rolleiflex 2.8F. After owning these for many years I can summarize as follows...
1. The flex feels substantially heavier than the cord (to me it's a big difference). I ended up buying a crumpler padded strap which helps. It does weigh on you if you are carrying it around for any length of time. The cord not really.
2. They are equally solid, equally well-built. Both are beautiful examples of manufacturing and design that I doubt we'll ever see again in a camera.
3. How often do you need 2.8? I can't recall when I've really needed it. These, IMO, aren't low-light cameras. So think about saving money by foregoing the 2.8 models. I did read that the slower lenses were sharper at one point (don't really know if that's the case however).
4. There is absolutely no question that the film winding/shutter cocking advance of the flex is superior. But then again, these aren't fast action cameras IMO.
5. The built in meter is useless. So don't make that a priority. If you can find one that's even accurate anymore.
6. Both have great lenses. Both will produce great results.
You will be very happy with a good cord and, if you save some money, all the better.
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jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Thanks, guys. I like to have the hand that fires the shutter to be the opposite of the one that focuses the camera. I'd prefer a push-button, but could live with a lever, as I'm used to it on the Yashica I've been using.
JP
JP
robklurfield
eclipse
JP, I've had my Rolleicord IV for about ten days now. I added the shutter release button that screws into the cable release socket. It works very easily and smoothly and does allow you to use your left hand for triggering the shutter release while using your left for focusing. Having never owned a Rolleiflex, I'm quite happy with the whole set up. After a CLA last week, this camera is nice and smooth. The shutter button add-on was about $20. If you buy a Rollei that needs a repair, PM me and I send you the contact info for Krikor who did my work in about 24 hours.
Thanks, guys. I like to have the hand that fires the shutter to be the opposite of the one that focuses the camera. I'd prefer a push-button, but could live with a lever, as I'm used to it on the Yashica I've been using.
JP
Krosya
Konicaze
Just a thought on Rolleiflex. I used to have Automat and 2.8C. Both were good camera. Both got sold. I now have a 3.5E with Planar and a meter. Meter works and it is actually pretty accurate and nice to have, at least as a guideline. I dont think it makes camera any bulkier. Having tried several other TLRs - Yashica 124, Ricoh Diacord L, Rolleicord, Minolta, etc, I think that unless you have to have a 2.8 lens - go for a Minolta Autocord - very nice, well built and fine lens. But all in all - nearly all TLRs are fun to use and can deliver good results.
PMCC
Late adopter.
Thanks, guys. I like to have the hand that fires the shutter to be the opposite of the one that focuses the camera. I'd prefer a push-button, but could live with a lever, as I'm used to it on the Yashica I've been using.
In this regard, note that the Rolleicord IV and V have right hand focus, but the Va and Vb have left hand focus. But all four of those models have the same shutter release.
edodo
Well-known
One point I want to highlight concerning the Rollei TLR is that you can change the focusing screen for a cheap mamiya (use a cutter to trim it off) bright screen ONLY for the removeable hood models. For the cords that leaves only the Vb, and for the flexes it's OK for the 2.8 E2 and up, 2.8F TELEROLLEI, ROLLEIWidE and same applies to the 3.5.
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Thanks for the additional information, gentlemen. It is nice to know that the removable hood does have an advantage - I hadn't realized that. My decision between the two will probably be based upon the best value that I can find given my priorities. I just need to wait for one to come up somewhere, which unfortunately may have to be the big auction site, as I keep missing them for sale here.
If I could afford it, I'd just buy one of each ( as was suggested tongue-in-cheek already ) and see which one I liked better, but I can't justify spending that kind of dough now. I probably shouldn't worry too much about it, as I'm sure that sometime in the future ( near or far, who knows? ) I'll be able to get them both. Patience, grasshopper, patience...
Also, thanks for the heads up on Krikor, Rob. I did know about him, but it's nice to know that he's fast as well as good.
If I could afford it, I'd just buy one of each ( as was suggested tongue-in-cheek already ) and see which one I liked better, but I can't justify spending that kind of dough now. I probably shouldn't worry too much about it, as I'm sure that sometime in the future ( near or far, who knows? ) I'll be able to get them both. Patience, grasshopper, patience...
Also, thanks for the heads up on Krikor, Rob. I did know about him, but it's nice to know that he's fast as well as good.
PMCC
Late adopter.
One point I want to highlight concerning the Rollei TLR is that you can change the focusing screen for a cheap mamiya (use a cutter to trim it off) bright screen ONLY for the removeable hood models. For the cords that leaves only the Vb, and for the flexes it's OK for the 2.8 E2 and up, 2.8F TELEROLLEI, ROLLEIWidE and same applies to the 3.5.
The choice is only limited if one insists that the hood be called 'removable'. In fact, they are all easily removable, as previously discussed in the thread. If value for money is a consideration, there is a collector's premium for the Rolleicord Vb vs. the IV and V 'fixed' hood 'cords. New Mamiya RB67 screens, required to be cut down (are you feeling lucky?) for the Vb, seem to be running about $80, compared to the fitted ready-to-install alternatives for the 'fixed' hood models at $30-$40. If money is no object, sure, go for the late model 'flexes and plunge $200 for a brand-name britescreen, which may require tech installation for proper calibration.
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