Rubber cleaning and preservation. Eliminate stickiness

Robert Lai

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Those of you who own the Voigtlander Bessa R know what I'm talking about. The rubber covering discolors, and gets tacky. It started to happen with the other Fuji / Voigtlander rangefinder cameras that I have, the Fuji GF 670 and the Voigtlander Bessa 667W. The Fuji GF670 just got to me, as I purchased it as an open box demo unit from B&H. However, since production ended in 2014, the rubber covering has started to get tacky.

I've started using this product called Hunter's Rubber Buffer:
http://us.hunterboots.com/care-prod...nQrT3WtFmh6t470WOlNJozGQUv1SFiN_c_xoCZLrw_wcB

You can get 150ml directly from Hunter Boots for $14, with shipping included.

Hunter makes rubber boots for gardening, hunting, winter wear, etc. Natural rubber has insoluble particles which rise to the surface to give a white/gray "bloom". The purpose of this cleaner is to remove that deposit, giving you your black shiny rubber again. The liquid itself is clear.
I spray it into an old toothbrush, then use the toothbrush to clean the rubber item. It works great!

Just scrub the old rubber material until the gray is gone, and dry off with a clean cloth.

So far I've treated the rubber collars on my Gitzo tripod locks. Now they are black again, instead of the ugly gray color they had turned to before.
Then I tried the rubber patches on my Fuji GF670 and Voigtlander 667W rangefinder cameras. They had turned grayish, but also sticky.
This removed the gray tone, and also made the rubber not sticky anymore.

I think this will work great on the Bessa R, which is notorious for turning sticky. However, I won't know for sure until I get back to Chicago next week. That's where the camera is.

Finally, I tried it on Leica vulcanite. I used it on my Elmar 135mm f/4 lens, which has a chrome body with a vulcanite patch near the lens mount end. This area always looked a bit dirty. It WAS dirty, because all the brown dirt / oxidized rubber just came right off into the toothbrush! Now the vulcanite patch gleams! There is no more crud stuck in the crevasses of the vulcanite.

NB: This is NOT Armor All. Armor All makes the sticky problem worse, and it tends to deteriorate the rubber or plastic with time. Armor All does not clean either. (Ask me how I know....)

So far, this rubber buffer is safe with plastic, chrome, and carbon fiber (Gitzo). Any liquid that goes out of the rubber onto the surrounding materials just wipes away without any residue or stickiness.

When I get up enough nerve, I'm going to tape over the rangefinder windows on my Leica M4-2, and try this out on the vulcanite. My reluctance is that Don Goldberg has just overhauled this camera, and it's fairly clean. But, then I thought that the Elmar was fairly clean also, until I really cleaned it.

Again, I spray the liquid into a toothbrush, NOT DIRECTLY ON THE CAMERA!!! I then use the toothbrush carefully to clean the vulcanite. Use common sense and don't make the toothbrush so saturated that the liquid is dripping off it.

Anyhow, I thought that for $14 it may be worth it for you to try experimenting with this. I've just started experimenting with this, so there are my findings as of 1 day into it. If it doesn't work for you, at least you can have clean rubber boots.

PS: I've found that Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge, moistened and gently rubbed with finger pressure only, will remove all the crud out of knurling. such as the focusing ring of my Elmar.
 
You're welcome Shac.
I forgot to add that I treated the focusing collar of my Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AIS. It's no longer that ugly whitish color.
The surface immediately after treatment feels a little slippery. However, after you wipe it off, and use it the natural rubber grip returns.
 
Have you tried it on a Canon or Nikon AF camera?

Have you tried it on a Canon or Nikon AF camera?

Dear Robert,

If just curious as I have a Canon EOS Elan and a Nikon 8008S that sometimes almost magically stay in my hand when I release my grip because the body material has gotten sticky.

I cleaned the Canon Elan well with denatured alcohol and Goof-Off and it's pretty good for now but the Nikon 8008S is starting to feel like gum stuck to the sole of your shoe in a mid-summer parking lot.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg, PA 🙂
 
Dear Tim,
I don't own any AF cameras besides a Canon Sure Shot Tele P&S.

However, if you think that the sticky covering is rubber, then there can be no harm trying this product.
 
Thanks, it sounds like it worth a try!

Thanks, it sounds like it worth a try!

Dear Robert,

I'll see if I can find some and give it a try.

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg, PA 🙂
 
Hello Col.,
Amazon charges more than the manufacturer. Both Amazon and Hunter offer free shipping.

Prices:
Amazon: $16.95
Hunter: $14.

Mine arrived in less than a week or ordering. I'm in Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas.
 
I used it on my M4-2!!

I used it on my M4-2!!

The curiosity was just too much.
I broke down and tried it just now on my Leica M4-2.

I took the lens off, and capped the lens mount.
I used tape to cover the windows in front and back.
That is, the rangefinder, framline illuminator, and viewfinder windows.
This keeps any splatter from the toothbrush filaments from getting on the glass.

Then, I just started scrubbing. The amount of dirt that came off was unbelievable! My cleaning cloth was literally black.
I don't know if the previous owner had tried black shoe polish on this vulcanite, as people often do.

I just kept redoing an area until the cloth no longer got black particles off.

Now the camera literally gleams. It's even shinier than the vulcanite on my M7. I guess it's time to give the M7 a going over.

ZUT ALORS! INCROYABLE!
 
If you do get some of it on the metal, as I did on my M4-2, then a paper towel lightly moistened with water will remove it entirely.
 
Works on Leica Strap Pads

Works on Leica Strap Pads

After I cleaned the vulcanite of the M4-2, I tried cleaning the sticky rubber pad on its Leica strap. Clean, and no longer ultra sticky!
 
Well, I just cleaned my Leica M cameras. I went through 3 old toothbrushes, and a lot of Q-tips (cotton swabs) for 5 cameras. Two of them probably had black shoe polish placed on the vulcanite. You can recognize it by the dull matte, dead appearance of the rubber. Clean vulcanite has some lustre in it, that you can see at certain angles of incident light.

With these shoe polish cameras, there's nothing to do but keep cleaning until all the black garbage comes off.

You can use the toothbrush to start, but to really get around the levers, you need to use the Q-tips. With the frame selector lever, you need to move it back and forth as you get into the area behind it.

With the self timer lever, just set the self timer fully. The lever then can flop around freely as you clean the vulcanite around it. Don't forget to release the self timer when done.

The area around the base of the rewind lever also needs the Q-tips.
Finally, the lugs of the M5 have a patch of vulcanite at its base.
Don't forget that area.

Happy camera polishing!
 
Thanks for this post. I have several older non-Leica lenses with rubber focus rings and a couple of old Canon EOS bodies that have turned sticky. I just did an order.
 
Interesting, thanks for the info. I think I'll try it on my F100.
no problemn(yet?) on my Bessa R
I found it on the italian site of the company 150 ml = 10 EUR + shipping

robert
 
For fanatical camera detailers - Renaissance wax

For fanatical camera detailers - Renaissance wax

To prevent the acids in your finger oils from ruining the chrome or paint on your camera, I use this wax on paint and metalwork. It forms a barrier between the metal/paint, and your fingers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=asc_df_B0012S1XBO5046527

You need to use very little to do a camera. Use too much, and you'll change the appearance of the chrome. I use a 1" paintbrush with china bristle, with the brush cut short for stiffness. Just let the brush drop into the wax to pick up a tiny quantity. Start applying over painted areas first. Then, use the toothbrush to distribute into the details of the item. Finally, buff with a clean cloth or microfiber cloth. Fine metal details are best treated with Q-tips. Apply wax with one side, and buff with the other side's swab.
 
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