Saving as 8 bit vis 16 bit

remegius

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I scan everything in 16 bit mode, and then do all of my adjustments. After having finished with the file is there any reason not to convert to 8 bit for the save. It sure would save a lot of room.

Cheers...

Rem
 
If all you're going to do with the file is print, then sure, save in 8 bit. The most important things to do in 16 bit are tone edits (curves etc.) After you're finished with tone edits then why not go to 8 bit.

Many people do recommend archiving in 16 bit. I don't because I consider my film to be my archive. Different people have different practices.
 
No reason not to save in 8 bit if you are positive you are finished.

I always save in 16 bit with unflattened layers since I never finish. I've gone back and tweaked images for reprinting that I originally printed years ago.
 
I always save in 16 bit with unflattened layers since I never finish. I've gone back and tweaked images for reprinting that I originally printed years ago.[/quote] from Bob

I never finish either, but I don't save in 16, so I have to start over. It's a mess.

Carter
 
On some projects I save the original 16-bit tiff and the 8-bit jpeg but most often I scan in 16 and save in 8 after tweaking. I assume that by the time I need to go back to rescan something from the archive I will have a better scanner.
 
After having done the major corrections I convert my files to 8-bit. I think that people are being a bit too nervous about this sometimes..
 
I'm with Bob and Carter, but with a twist: I save my unmanipulated 16-bit scans as my "masters", and the worked-on-and-flattened version as 8-bit "finals." But a lot of test-printing happens between those two files before the 8-bit file gets signed-off on.


- Barrett
 
Well...I've decided to handle my scans in the same way that I handle digital files from my D40. I scan as raw (Vuescan), save those scans in the "raw" folder, save the worked on files in the "master" folder, and the files that are printed go in the "print" folder. Takes up a fair amount of space but, Hey, I just bought a 500 GB USB drive for $100. Storage media is for nothing. Between that and DVD I'm covered. BTW, I'm giving up trying to make contacts with the V500. It can be done, but it isn't necessary. I just batch scan all of the frames on the roll at low res, usually around 300 dpi, and view them using the Bridge when necessary.

Carter...have you done anything more with stand development?

Cheers...

Rem
 
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