ScanMate drum scanner DIY maintenance, troubleshooting, mods

KorDen1977 said:
Help me modify the Control Board on my SM11K !!!
Please, show photos of their boards in good quality - and the details of the changes are larger!

Here is a picture of my board:

P.S.
I was writing off with ABS-Scan, but Michael replied that the service was closed, nothing more ... 😡

And the question on the head of the scanner, what kind of color filters are there?
Does it make sense to put LEDs 5000K, or RGBW LEDs adjusted to 5000K?
Click to expand...
When did you last talk to Michael because he has been helping me in his retirement? I would not attempt upgrading the board yourself because the chances of getting it right is slim at best which a high chance that you're going to render your scanner useless.

What filters are you referring to? The mirrors or the IR filter that is in front of the bulb?

I do think a high dynamic LED is worth exploring but you get such amazing results without it that I don't see the benefit. The bulbs are plenty and cheap as well.

Pali
 
Netsoft2k said:
When did you last talk to Michael because he has been helping me in his retirement? I would not attempt upgrading the board yourself because the chances of getting it right is slim at best which a high chance that you're going to render your scanner useless.
Click to expand...

Michael Bæk answered me 18. juli 2018, I wrote to him 15. juli 2018, the answer was this:
"Sorry we have closed the service"

And that's what Michael told me today:
Sorry I have closed down the business so I won’t be able to modify it is too late sorry

Netsoft2k said:
What filters are you referring to? The mirrors or the IR filter that is in front of the bulb?
Click to expand...

I mean "mirrors" as filters!
But just do not know they originally designed for a light temperature of 3200-3400K, or they will be able to work fine with 5000K (or 4000K)?
And is there a built-in filter for color negatives (in CQ is the mode of scanning negatives)?

I think to use a 12V LED with a color temperature of 5000K (and I'll try with 4000K) ...
RGB LED or RGBW so far I doubt to use, because. dimming of the channels is done by pulsation - which can badly affect the results of scanning.

I believe that even an increase in the pulsation frequencies will not significantly correct the situation.

Netsoft2k said:
I do think a high dynamic LED is worth exploring but you get such amazing results without it that I don't see the benefit. The bulbs are plenty and cheap as well.
Click to expand...

For example, scanning color negatives - I noticed that the initial density of the negative is different from the final (I usually scan the MF with a resolution of 4340dpi), probably this is due to the lamp's heating !?

LED will most likely solve the problem with heating the scanner and drum - and especially stabilizes the light source, and the results of the scans will be at a uniform density at the beginning and at the end of the scan!
Scans will be more suitable for stitching!

LED probably will solve the problem with the need to install an IR filter, and perhaps the native color in RAW will need less color correction.

Maybe I'll add a green and blue LED to scan color negatives, I'll dimmize them with current - there will not be a pulse, but not the fact that the latter will work.

Denis
 
For example Screen 1030 with only 30W bulb and AI makes a way better scans of difficult underdeveloped slides. More to come as I acquired one.
 
That sucks that Michael is no longer helping - I had some hiccups with him but he has been very helpful when I have needed help.

BTW, I do have a picture of my modified board but I am reluctant to post it and cause someone to damage their scanner.

Pali
 
Netsoft2k said:
BTW, I do have a picture of my modified board but I am reluctant to post it and cause someone to damage their scanner.
Click to expand...

It's good that you have a photo of your modified board!

I want to see the photo of the board in the maximum quality (you can send it to me korzundv77@gmail.com)!
To be able to assess the risks of self-modification of the board.
If there are new elements on the board, besides the wires - I would like to know their name and parameters (if possible).

Because More on the service can not be calculated - then you need to investigate the possibility of self-modification!

With success - you can, step by step, describe how the rest of the scanner owners will get rid of the problem "Stripes in shadow"!
 
I’m testing 1030Ai, have a few observations:

1) Setting focus is very fast using optical viewfinder
2) Zero point horizontal is very fast - rotate drum to the line on a drum and press blue button. In scanmate you must set it using oscilloscope via service routine.
3) AI feature works very well, wp and bp points
4) Shadow detail is equal or better than 11000, most SMs have issues with posterization especially F8. Black pattern in shadows does not exists.

So far only drawback is old Mac 8100/100 (Mac OS8.1) so can’t show samples. Negatives to be tested.
 
Howtek/Aztek scanners have bearing other end of a drum. I haven't seen visible register error (wow and flutter). Can you confirm?
 
Hi There,
I have a problem by scanning Ektachrome slides. (SM 5000)
After the scanning I have light flare by the perforation and the edge of the film.
I checked on phothoshop. On the blue and green channel flared, the red ok.
What could be the problem?
 
Where can I buy "Lumina" mounting fluid, or something similar - but safe for an acrylic drum?
Desirable in EU!

And what scotch do you use?

P.S.
I still enjoyed the mounting fluid "SDS Montage-Gel" - I like it very much, and the Scotch 3M 850.
 
KorDen1977 said:
Where can I buy "Lumina" mounting fluid, or something similar - but safe for an acrylic drum?
Desirable in EU!

And what scotch do you use?

P.S.
I still enjoyed the mounting fluid "SDS Montage-Gel" - I like it very much, and the Scotch 3M 850.
Click to expand...
You can order Kami fluids directly from Germany, I haven't seen any other vendors in Europe when I searched a few months ago.
You could also run the gamble with generic fluids, I think some people use Gamsol on drums.


I use Tessa 4124, it seems to work but I never tried anything else.
 
What mounting fluid do you recommend (from Germay), Kami SXL 2001, or Kami SC 2001?

Which of them - on the film dries out without a trace?
 
An example of severe register error - loss of details (left). Fujichrome Provia 100F, 3,25D in shadows measured with Screen 1030AI.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0405.jpg
    IMG_0405.jpg
    25.8 KB · Views: 1
KorDen1977 said:
Michael Bæk answered me 18. juli 2018, I wrote to him 15. juli 2018, the answer was this:
"Sorry we have closed the service"

And that's what Michael told me today:
Sorry I have closed down the business so I won’t be able to modify it is too late sorry



I mean "mirrors" as filters!
But just do not know they originally designed for a light temperature of 3200-3400K, or they will be able to work fine with 5000K (or 4000K)?
And is there a built-in filter for color negatives (in CQ is the mode of scanning negatives)?

I think to use a 12V LED with a color temperature of 5000K (and I'll try with 4000K) ...
RGB LED or RGBW so far I doubt to use, because. dimming of the channels is done by pulsation - which can badly affect the results of scanning.

I believe that even an increase in the pulsation frequencies will not significantly correct the situation.



For example, scanning color negatives - I noticed that the initial density of the negative is different from the final (I usually scan the MF with a resolution of 4340dpi), probably this is due to the lamp's heating !?

LED will most likely solve the problem with heating the scanner and drum - and especially stabilizes the light source, and the results of the scans will be at a uniform density at the beginning and at the end of the scan!
Scans will be more suitable for stitching!

LED probably will solve the problem with the need to install an IR filter, and perhaps the native color in RAW will need less color correction.

Maybe I'll add a green and blue LED to scan color negatives, I'll dimmize them with current - there will not be a pulse, but not the fact that the latter will work.

Denis
Click to expand...

Leds are rarely good for color accurate work, the spectrums are usually bad.

If you check out warm white led bulb specturms, its mostly green light.

While halogens are quite good an even.

SB8opNy.png


I would like to test leds for the same purpose as you, as while scanning in parts i do see the varied light output of these bulbs. Maybe its more of a warm up period, and the lights just should be kept on for a long period before starting to scan.

But my experience with lends overall, has been that they light quality is rarely good. Tried to use leds on my room light, but it was just horrible. Switched to fluorescent.

Maybe some expensive top notch leds would work, dont know.

" and perhaps the native color in RAW will need less color correction." You just need to make a proper color profile to solve this issue. As the native raw file has no color profile, its not really good for editing without one.
 
Of course white LED is poor but how about RGB 1W? You will need manually change amplifier gains in Scanmate. Screen 1030ai also refuse balance orange mask.
 
jzagaja said:
Of course white LED is poor but how about RGB 1W? You will need manually change amplifier gains in Scanmate. Screen 1030ai also refuse balance orange mask.
Click to expand...

I don't think 1W would get even close to the output of the 75w halogen bulb.

Probably would need something more powerful. They do make professional LED lights for cinema, they have good light quality but they just cost a lot.

I think the particular bulb used on the scanner is quite high quality in the spectrum it produces. So matching something like that with LEDs is probably quite expensive.

There might be some projector LED light source assemblies that work well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom