Steinberg2010
Well-known
I'm curious to know how best to align my DSLR to scan 120 film (60mm macro lens arrives tomorrow).
I have a D810, Lomography digitaliza film-holder, LCD panel (for the backlight), and a tripod. I understand the basic mechanics: Film in the holder, squeeze air to remove dust use the tripod to drop the head towards the film raised up on a table etc.
What's the easiest way to ensure that the sensor/lens and film are in alignment - do I need a flashmount spirit level (bearing in mind the camera is now pointing at the floor)? I think the D810 has a viewfinder spirit level: can I use this to help me? I'm a linux user so I'm not sure that tethered shooting is practical/possible - I'll likely be Live-Viewing on the screen or using the VF to focus.
Thanks for any advice...
~S
I have a D810, Lomography digitaliza film-holder, LCD panel (for the backlight), and a tripod. I understand the basic mechanics: Film in the holder, squeeze air to remove dust use the tripod to drop the head towards the film raised up on a table etc.
What's the easiest way to ensure that the sensor/lens and film are in alignment - do I need a flashmount spirit level (bearing in mind the camera is now pointing at the floor)? I think the D810 has a viewfinder spirit level: can I use this to help me? I'm a linux user so I'm not sure that tethered shooting is practical/possible - I'll likely be Live-Viewing on the screen or using the VF to focus.
Thanks for any advice...
~S
lukitas
second hand noob
mirror.
rest a mirror on the film plane, check if you are centered in the viewfinder.
works all the time.
cheers
rest a mirror on the film plane, check if you are centered in the viewfinder.
works all the time.
cheers
kevin_v
Established
A three-axis shoe mounted level should work in that orientation. Alternatively, a 2-axis shoe mounted level can work if you simply place it on the LCD (assuming it has a flat bottom).
Remember to make sure the film is also on a level surface
Remember to make sure the film is also on a level surface
cjm
Well-known
I use a small Bubble Spirit Level placed on the DSLR's screen and then on the surface on which the film holder rests. I scan with a D610 while using live view on the camera (not tethered).
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Levels are approximate. Mirror is easier and more accurate.
Steinberg2010
Well-known
Ok, thanks all! I will give the mirror a go!
~S
~S
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I've never found the mirror technique to be more accurate than using a good bubble level. I level my copy table, set up my copy stand and make sure that it is level and orthogonal to the table, then make sure the camera is level as well. I center the neg using a focusing grid first.
In my use, these measurements have all been absolutely precise and accurate to within a fraction of a mm, while using a mirror and optically judging that you're centered and level is always an approximate judgement based on your eyesight and ability to judge that things are centered and even.
G
In my use, these measurements have all been absolutely precise and accurate to within a fraction of a mm, while using a mirror and optically judging that you're centered and level is always an approximate judgement based on your eyesight and ability to judge that things are centered and even.
G
Steinberg2010
Well-known
What do you mean by a focusing grid?
Huss
Veteran
Doesn't your 810 have a grid option when using LiveView? So you see a grid on the rear LCD?
Steinberg2010
Well-known
Honestly - I've used it once/twice (only had it a couple of weeks)! I suspect you're right and there's a way to turn it on in the menu.
Huss
Veteran
It's all I use for alignment. Super easy.
If you get a chance, pick up a copy stand. Much easier to use than the tripod. You can get them new for about $150.
trianbampol
brian tampol
Bubble levels are probably the most economically friendly option. You can also go the copy stand route too.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
A sheet of paper with lines bisecting it vertically and horizontally allows me to center it precisely using the grid in the camera viewfinder. The mask I use for the negatives is taped into position using the grid for centering, then, so that I can consistently align the negatives in the viewfinder without having to spend a lot of time peering through the viewfinder for each neg.
My workflow notion is to spend a lot of time setting up the configuration, perhaps about 15 minutes so that I can then consistently and very very rapidly capture dozens to hundreds of negatives without changing anything in the configuration at all. I did 400+ Polaroid prints using this scheme in about an hour and a half a few weeks back, with the additional complexity of setting up lights and managing illumination evenness vs using a light box included.
G