jano
Evil Bokeh
I had some expired velvia 100f that'd been subject to poor conditions in a hot car, in and out of a freezer, and finally developed in a C41 bath.
Some question now..
- tips on scanning? Should I scan as positive and then invert in PS?
- do I try to eliminate a color cast, like with orange-masked negs?
- once in ps.. what exactly should I do.. autolevels, color balancing, ???
I'm a bit lost. I got somewhat lucky and ended up with about 16 frames on this one roll where I really like the composition. It's going to be now many hours to work on this, ugh. Would like some help getting started...
Thanks!
Jano
Some question now..
- tips on scanning? Should I scan as positive and then invert in PS?
- do I try to eliminate a color cast, like with orange-masked negs?
- once in ps.. what exactly should I do.. autolevels, color balancing, ???
I'm a bit lost. I got somewhat lucky and ended up with about 16 frames on this one roll where I really like the composition. It's going to be now many hours to work on this, ugh. Would like some help getting started...
Thanks!
Jano
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
Scan as color negative. That will give the most true colors. Don't eliminate ANYTHING, because that's part of the fun of cross processing - you never really know what you're going to get. Don't do anything in Photoshop either...it's more fun to see what you got directly out of the camera.
And don't forget to post the photos.
And don't forget to post the photos.
D
desmo
Guest
Depending on your scanner software, you COULD use the densitometer to measure the 'empty' space beteen frames and set that to neutral grey.
This is a darkroom 'trick' that works well in scanning. The film between the frames is always the neutral point for colour and by setting that as the neutral, all the colours should appear as they were shot.
tungsten will have an orange cast, daylight will have a blue cast etc and your software won't be trying to correct for filters or the time of day.
if you then scan all the negs like this, the extra contrast of the trannie film should really boot the colour in the ass and make the pics jump out at ya.
And BTW; It doesn't really matter if you scan in neg or positive, try them all to see what look you like.
If perchance you have already scanned them, you could also select a 'between the frame' area if you've overscanned the film area. Then in Photoshop use the dropper to sample the colout there and set it to neutral grey: should do the same thing but maybe not as good since the scanner's primary undistorted view is likely to do better.
anyway, experiment away with a couple that look drastically different to see the effects (experiment with really small files and have the record featuse on in your photo editor. You can then use that to process the big image automatically.
This is a darkroom 'trick' that works well in scanning. The film between the frames is always the neutral point for colour and by setting that as the neutral, all the colours should appear as they were shot.
tungsten will have an orange cast, daylight will have a blue cast etc and your software won't be trying to correct for filters or the time of day.
if you then scan all the negs like this, the extra contrast of the trannie film should really boot the colour in the ass and make the pics jump out at ya.
And BTW; It doesn't really matter if you scan in neg or positive, try them all to see what look you like.
If perchance you have already scanned them, you could also select a 'between the frame' area if you've overscanned the film area. Then in Photoshop use the dropper to sample the colout there and set it to neutral grey: should do the same thing but maybe not as good since the scanner's primary undistorted view is likely to do better.
anyway, experiment away with a couple that look drastically different to see the effects (experiment with really small files and have the record featuse on in your photo editor. You can then use that to process the big image automatically.
jano
Evil Bokeh
Thanks for the tips! Very helpful!
Just put up three examples in my gallery. I have a few more to scan.. it's really weird looking at these, because, well.. they're sort of colored right.. but not quite.. and there's grain.. but there isn't.. sorry, I've had too much chocolate tonight
What I discovered is that I *really* need a new confuser. Mine can't handle these 4000dpi 16 files anymore. I like to print BIG hence the huge res.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27995&cat=500&ppuser=2711
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27994&cat=500&ppuser=2711
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27993&cat=500&ppuser=2711
Just put up three examples in my gallery. I have a few more to scan.. it's really weird looking at these, because, well.. they're sort of colored right.. but not quite.. and there's grain.. but there isn't.. sorry, I've had too much chocolate tonight
What I discovered is that I *really* need a new confuser. Mine can't handle these 4000dpi 16 files anymore. I like to print BIG
hence the huge res.http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27995&cat=500&ppuser=2711
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27994&cat=500&ppuser=2711
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=27993&cat=500&ppuser=2711