Scanning negs and printing resolution -- sanity check and help me understand a few ..

dmr

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... things please. 🙂

Let me try to make this concise and ask a few questions, but it's a bit confusing ...

To make a long story long ... 🙂

Here at home I've got a HP 720C printer. It's several years old, and a hand-me-down from my ex. I would guess it dates from 1999 or so. I've always considered it a "near photo quality" printer. It's ok for maybe some test prints, but it's never really done what I call true photo quality. "Rough" and "dirty" is the way I describe it.

At work we have a newer HP model {mumble, forget what} but it has the 6 color inks (mine at home is just CMYK) and it makes beautiful prints. When I want a good about-8x10 I use this and it's almost as good as a wet optical print from a non-custom mass-production lab.

Saturday night I was chatting on "another network" and I was talking to this guy about printers and such. He was saying that mine, the 720C was actually a very good printer, and that it should do much better. He dcc'd (sent) me a file, a test print that they use for QA-ing the Fuji Frontier printers (the ones they use at Wally World and lots of other places) and told me to print it out. I was expecting a rough print with blotchy solids and dithered lines, but what I got was the most awesome print, clean and clear, very detailed, with four test photos, grayscale, RGBCMY blocks and I was just astonished, still am, that this printer did that! This is a plain old .JPG file, 300dpi.

Anyway, when I have my photos processed, they are done two ways, depending on how serious I think it is, where I am, and the phase of the moon. 🙂 The good stuff I'll take to a smaller independent photo shop, one of the last remaining real photo shops in the area. They charge about $9 for DO-CD, next day service, and each shot comes out to about 3 megabytes in size. When I print these on the new HP at work, they are usually spectacular. When I do them at home they are so-so. I have no clue as to what kind of scanner they use.

The stuff I'm not so serious about I take over to Wally World. I finally "trained" them to do DO-CD but every so often somebody says they don't do that until I explain that I have it done there all the time. 🙂 This is one-hour service, each photo comes out to right around one megabyte. When I print them at work, they are anywhere from so-so to spectacular, but when I print them at home, they are anywhere from mediocre to downright nasty. They do these on a Fuji mini lab system and charge about $5.

So anyway, having proof in my hand that the printer could do spectacular work, I started playing around. I do know enough to be dangerous about resolution and such. I found out that if I print either the Wally World or indy lab scans right at 300dpi, they do come out great. Very detailed, no crud. If I change this to 150, as I'll need to in order to make them come out about 8x10, there's a very noticable loss in quality. However, this is what I do at work. If I want an about-8x10 I'll scale without resampling to 150dpi and then scale to size.

I looked at the Wally World and indy CDs. Wally World images are scanned at 1678x1109 pixels and the indy lab ones are at 1818x1228, not that mich difference I can see. Both of them I have to scale to 150dpi to make an about-8x10 print, but the indy lab ones come consistently clearer. Also, the difference is night and day between what my printer does with these 150dpi files and what the one at work does.

Sorry for the long diatribe, here are my questions:

1. If the pixel count is not that much more from the indie lab, why are the files so much bigger, and the prints better?

2. Anybody know why the HP 720C does such a vile job on the 150dpi files while the newer HP does so much better?

3. What resolution should a good 35mm scan of a negative be? I keep hearing 2400 and 2700 being said, but the way I figure it, both of these are about half that.

Any ideas or comments, gang?

Thanks in advance. 🙂
 
I have my negs scanned by my friendly local lab on their Noritsu 2901 machine. They can scan in 3 resolutions: x4 (1800x1200), x16 (3000x2000) and x64 (6000x4000). They don't even bother with x4, even if you're only printing 4x6 and don't want the scans. The quality just isn't there.

When I order a CD with the scans, I get them at x16 (3000x2000) for 9.95$CAN. If I want x64 (6000x4000), they charge 5$CAN per scan.

Personally, I think anything bellow x16 is useless. You want at least an 8x12 (full frame, or 8x10) without using interpolation. I've recently decided that 12x18 (actually a 10x15 image on 12x18 paper) will be my "official" format. I tested a print at 12x18 from a Delta 3200 negative. I upsampled the image to 12x18 @ 300dpi and the grain was proportionally equivalent to the 4x6 version. It was beautiful. So for me, I won't need the x64 scans unless I go for larger prints than 12x18.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
Answer to #3 is whatever resolution is required to give you 300dpi without any upsampling for whatever size you want to print. When scanning with a fine print in mind as a final output, most people scan at the highest native optical resolution then make their post-processing adjustments, resample down/interpolate up to final print size and perform a final sharpening step. If you can sample down rather than interpolate up to final print size all the better

I shoot medium format and scan with an Imacon Flextight at 3200dpi. I end up with a 300MB file than when resampled down to a 12x12 print has just a bit less than 600dpi. I could resample smaller but I just let the printer driver throw away they extra. Some say this causes lower quality but I can't tell the difference on my Epson 2200.

T.
 
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backalley photo said:
i look forward to an answer for this one also.

i still have not been able to sort it clearly in my non techie mind.

Well, I just got a good answer to #1 from "another network" and it proves to be true. I'll cut-paste:

Don't let anyone tell you your 720 is a bad printer. It's not as fast as the new Epson's,
but the quality should be about as good.

I can tell you exactly why the scans from your custom lab are bigger than those from Wal-Mart
at the same resolution. Your custom lab is saving them at maximum JPEG quality. Open up one
of your 3m scans in fotoshop or gimp. Then save-as and set quality to 7-8 and you will get
about a 1m file. The difference between 8 and 10 you won't see unless you use a loupe on a
print.

I tried this, saved at 8, got a 968 kilobyte file, close to one megabyte. 🙂 {mark on chalkboard} one down. 🙂

Both places are scanning at 1200, which is what you do for normal 4-6 prints. The
Frontier prints at 300. It scans the negatives at 1200, then digitally prints to photo paper,
not what you call inkjet photo paper but real photo paper and then develops it. Don't ever
print at less than 300. See if your custom lab will scan at 2400 or even 3600. Remember,
think in terms of preparing for print, not preparing for the web.

A couple of other remarks here echo this point.

Thanks everybody. 🙂
 
dmr436 said:
3. What resolution should a good 35mm scan of a negative be? I keep hearing 2400 and 2700 being said, but the way I figure it, both of these are about half that.

Assuming 35mm

e.g.
You scan at 1" x 1.5" @ let's say 2000dpi
If you print 10" x 15" (x10 enlargement) @ 200dpi
Then most scanner & printer combinations should do a reasonable job.

Fussy people use a minimum of 300dpi printing in which case you'd need
to scan at 3000dpi for a 10x enlargement. If your enlargement is less than
10x pretty much any scan resolution would do.

My high quality scans are at 4000dpi which means I could print up to
20" x 30" @ 200dpi whilst maintaining a reasonable number of pixels
per area. i.e. reasonable quality. Except a 20x enlargement is going to
look pretty grungy however you do it because of the limitations of the film.
Provia might look OK.

DPI means nothing when associated with a JPG file. It only applies to input (scanning) or output (printing).

James
 
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