scanning problem 5000ED

[robert blu]

Working with my Scanner Nikon 5000 ED I have a vertical band on the left side of each frame.
Same if Vuescan or NikonScan.
In this case film is Fuji Pro 400H but it happens also on other kind of films, color or B&W (I use delta 100 or 400)
Tried to put the film in a revers mode and the dark band appears alwyas on the left side.
This is not visible on the negative, I check with a lens.
Any idea?
robert
PS: meantime I contacted Nikon assistance, waiting for an answer.

senza titolo.jpg by der blaue robert, on Flickr

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Is any clear space showing on the film? Nikon's scanners are notorious for flare caused by the image not totally covering the opening in the neg carrier, which causes that dark band you're getting.

 

[Robert Lai]

Also, is this the edge of the cut negative? Sometime the cut edge of the negative tends to curl, and I get this type of result. The single negative frame holder (FH-3, I think) may help here.

 

[robert blu]

Thanks for suggestions.
@Chris: not sure what you mean by clear space but the negative has regular frames at a regular distance. Film has been placed under a couple of dictionaries for a few days and is flat enough, at least I think so.
@Robert: It happens on all the frames of the strip (5 or 6) and not only on the first. I was thinking as well to find the single negative holder but it is no more available and difficult to find. Your and Chris comment let me think that it does not happen when I scan slides (mounted).
Thanks again for giving your opinion, robert

 

[sreed2006]

Nikon won't help, but there is a fairly easy solution you can do yourself.

I have a Nikon Super Coolscan IV ED that had this exact problem. I sent it to Nikon earlier this year and they sent it back, untouched, with a note that said "Parts no longer available." There also was an email from them that said they apologize that they told me they could fix it, but they cannot.

The solution to the discolored edges on the negatives is to clean the mirror. Disassembly and re-assembly of the scanner is required, but only takes about an hour or so. The warranty expired long ago, so opening the case won't void that non-existant warranty.

There are instructions on the web for how to get the mirror out and back in. One thing not mentioned in the instructions I found is that the mirror goes in long-side across the width of the scanner: just be careful to note the orientation of the mirror when it is being taken out, and then put it back in the same way. (I didn't do that and tried twice to put it in using the wrong orientation, and it fell out of its holder twice. Luckily, the mirror was not damaged.)

After I cleaned the mirror, the scanner now produces results like it did when it was new.

I also put the jumper wire across two of the electrical connectors on the film feeder, and can now scan entire rolls at one time. That makes scanning so much more tolerable, and it costs something like $0.04 to do. Again, no warranty is voided, because there is none to void.

 

[t.s.k.]

Agreed. I believe Nikon stopped supporting the 5000ED a couple years ago for lack of parts but they still might have some answers in their knowledge base.
https://support.nikonusa.com/#/knowledgebase-search

In case you haven't found these by now, here are also a couple of helpful links about Nikon scanners, including how to clean them. Thankfully I haven't had to clean mine yet.
http://www.pearsonimaging.com/articles/
http://www.marginalsoftware.com/index.html

Lastly, if you find dust is really the culprit, storing and operating the 5000ED on its side has reportedly prolonged cleaning intervals. YMMV, but I guess it couldn't hurt.
<Edit> Of course covering the scanner in storage is implied.

 

[robert blu]

Thanks again, I'll read carefully the instructions and than ... try it!
robert
PS: the idea to disassemble my "precious" machine is a little bit frightening! A friend of mine is very good in precision manual works, I hope with his help...

 

[Robert Lai]

What is the best way to clean a front surface mirror?

What is the best way to clean a front surface mirror?

If we all have to go down this route eventually, the question arises of how to best clean this mirror. All of the descriptions I have read so far mention use of lens cleaning paper and lens cleaning fluid. The risk of scratching is high with this.

Any other suggestions on how to clean a mirror?

 

[Chris101]

Thanks Tony! The links you gave us, especially the Pearson Imaging step-by-step are 'da bomb!' I know what I'll be doing this week: Opening and cleaning my CS5000 as I too have been seeing the dark band on the left edge for over a year now.

 

[Chris101]

If we all have to go down this route eventually, the question arises of how to best clean this mirror. All of the descriptions I have read so far mention use of lens cleaning paper and lens cleaning fluid. The risk of scratching is high with this.

Any other suggestions on how to clean a mirror?

A gentle hand powered blower to remove any non-adhered dust. Lens fluid should be used, or distilled water. Careful application of lens paper will remove any oily residue. Single pass - the best way is to wet the paper, then lay it onto the mirror surface, and pull it off to the side. Do not pull excess paper across the surface, and do not use it twice. A dust free environment is essential.

If you have fingerprints, you can remove then by preparing a collodion/ether mixture, flow it onto the dust free mirror surface, allow the ether to evaporate, and then peel the collision off the surface. I have found this procedure to be effective even with interior laser mirrors.

 

[t.s.k.]

BTW, here's the direct link for step-by-step cleaning for the 8000/9000. You have to drill down the marginalsoftware.com link I posted
http://www.marginalsoftware.com/LS8000Notes/cleaning_the_optics_of_the_ls.htm

@Chris. When you get around to cleaning your 5000, how about documenting/posting your instructions here? Might be nice to have it archived on RFF as well as provide another perspective since there are so few resources out there.

 

[Chris101]

...
@Chris. When you get around to cleaning your 5000, how about documenting/posting your instructions here? Might be nice to have it archived on RFF as well as provide another perspective since there are so few resources out there.

I will give that a shot , er several shots. Don't y'all hold yer collective breath though, I am notorious for my procrastination skills.

 

[robert blu]

I tried the procedure mentioned in the thread. Now the mirror is clean, scanner is reassembled and works but the problem still persists. Asking myself if could it be the lens or the sensor are dirty? Should I try to clean the sensor? Can the sensor be cleaned as the ones in digital cameras? or should I keep everything as it is and simply crop the photo a little bit?
It's long time I do not scan slides but for what I remember it never occurred with a slide. I'll give a try tomorrow. Could be the thickness of the film?
By the way the only difficult point was to replace the mirror in its place, other operations went smooth as shown in the tutorial.
robert
PS: or should I go full digital ?🙂

 

[froyd]

PS: or should I go full digital ?🙂

...and give up your TLR? Regain hold of your sense, man!

 

[robert blu]

...and give up your TLR? Regain hold of your sense, man!

🙂 I have no problem when with my Rolleiflex or the Zeiss Ikonta because I scan the 120films with an Epson V600 without problems. Problems are only related to the 135 films with my ED5000 scanner!
robert

 

[Fernando2]

I tried the procedure mentioned in the thread. Now the mirror is clean, scanner is reassembled and works but the problem still persists. Asking myself if could it be the lens or the sensor are dirty?

Lens, yes, sensor, no (would give a different kind of issue).
But some flare is unavoidable: it goes with the package.
With negative color film, it is annoying because the flare from the mask (inter-frame "blank" zone) diffuses to borders, causing not only veiling but colour casts too, as you see.
I have that too with my (clean) Nikon 8000 and Minolta 5400.

To reduce it as much as possible, carefully align the strip so that the inter-frame mask is well covered by the plastic divisors of the frame holder.
This reduces the amount of light bleeding from the orange mask into the frame.

Fernando

 

[robert blu]

Grazie Fernando, I'll make in the next days more trials because it seems me that it does not happens with any kind of film: Fuji Pro H400 yes, Ilford Delta 100 sometimes, Ilford HP5 not yet. As it does not happen with slides. But I desire to verify it.

I guess that an older for single frames (FH-3) should help, unfortunately no more available from Nikon .

robert

 

[digitworks]

Robert, did you resolve the dark band problem? I have the same dark band problem with my 5000ed. The dark band is also at the left and with the B&W and color negative film.

CHEN