Stop a moment and think: I will make bold points, so that you can get clear information
1) Haselblad is a tripod camera
2) If you only want an 80mm lens, Rolleiflex is better in almost every respect.
3) If you buy it for longer lenses, you should get 501 c, c/m or 503 cw versions - the previous ones vignette in the VF with lenses over 100mm, and also the later versions have acute matte screen, which otherwise will set you back 200 USD.
4) The Compur lenses (C version) have unreliable shutters, that have to be repaired periodically, and the spare parts are running out
5) Make sure you buy the magazines with a warranty - they often have problems and a cla is as expensive as the magazine at times.
6) Two best buy lenses are Distagon 60 and Sonnar 150.
The 501c will vignette just like the 500c and cm. the 501cm is a totally different mirror system like the 503cx. The 501c is basically a late version 500cm. The 501cm uses the oversize gliding mirror system. I have used Hasselblads since 1969 when they were the 500c.
You won't see much cutoff of image with the non gliding mirror cameras till you get to 150mm and then you only lose about 1/4" of image in the vf. This is only in the vf not on the film. On the film you get the full image no matter the body and lens.
Don't worry about T* vs non. The difference is almost non existent. I've owned both in many focal lengths and shot T* along side non and never seen a difference on chromed or B&W. A good hood will serve you better than the added cost of T* lenses.
Again I've used both Rollei and Hasselblad for most of my career and the Hasselblad is just as easy to handhold as the Rollei end even better with a 45 degree prism.
As to shutters, the compur shutters go back st least to the 30's and are some of the best and most reliable shutters ever made. I spoke to David Odess who's a factory trained repairman for Hasselblad. He works on mine if they need it. He says parts aren't made any longer for the compur but there are many years of parts still available. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a compur model.
The biggest annoyance for me regarding the older compur lenses is the. Dry thin focus ring and the coupled aperture / shutter speeds. The CF and later lenses have prontor shutters but IMO its no big deal. The big deal is a very nice rubber ficusing ring and non coupled shutter and aperture unless you elect to couple them.
Magazine repairs are relatively cheap. Usually seals need repaired unles the back has been abused. I replace my own seals I buy off eBay for under $10 each and can replace them in less than 10 minutes.
Contact Dave Odess and talk to him. He's a factory trained tech and knows about everything about every 500 model and lens. If you need a CLA or adjustment it's much cheaper than owning a Leica.
The only repairs I've had we're to replace shutter blades in a 150 sonnar. They can develop stress fractures over many years of use and self district. It's been a few years but the repair was less than $100. I had to have the mirror/screen adjusted for focus with my 501cm and 500el/m. When I bought my digital back I found the focus off slightly. The cost was around $60-80 each and took about a week including shipping. My 500cm was perfect. I had the shutter and body CLA by Jimmy Koh and was $180. I replaced seals and that's about it. Oh yes if you shoot a couple of thousand rolls a year you will need your backs rebuilt every 4-5 years. A rebuild is fairly cheap.
Give Dave a call. He has cameras and lenses for sale and you know those seeing first class shape.
Best values, 50, 80, 150 & 250. All great lenses.
Very best lenses money can buy - 100 planar, 120 f4 macro planar and 180 sonnar.
Very good lenses - 40 cf FLE, 50 FLE, 120 planar f5.6
Good lenses 40 c, 50 c, 60, 80c, 150, 250
