ashfaque
Learning
Hello everyone.
I developed two rolls of negatives from Snappy Snaps (Ilford XP2 400 and Fuji X-Tra 400) last week. I don't recall exactly where but I read somewhere that sometimes they scratch the negatives. Can anyone please have a look the image (link below*) and let me know if this indeed the case or it's just a problem with the film [Fuji X-Tra 400] or something else.
They are pretty clear when I look at them at 100%, Could you please tell me the best way to remove this annoying thing. FYI, I tried using the spot removal tool in Lightroom 3, but I'm not happy with the result, at least I am unable to do it better using LR3.
* link: A small section of an image [at 100%].
Thanks
I developed two rolls of negatives from Snappy Snaps (Ilford XP2 400 and Fuji X-Tra 400) last week. I don't recall exactly where but I read somewhere that sometimes they scratch the negatives. Can anyone please have a look the image (link below*) and let me know if this indeed the case or it's just a problem with the film [Fuji X-Tra 400] or something else.
They are pretty clear when I look at them at 100%, Could you please tell me the best way to remove this annoying thing. FYI, I tried using the spot removal tool in Lightroom 3, but I'm not happy with the result, at least I am unable to do it better using LR3.
* link: A small section of an image [at 100%].
Thanks
peterm1
Veteran
There used to be a tool called Polaroid dust and scratch removal tool that worked pretty well if I recall correctly. But as I recall it this was a plugin for Photoshop although there may be a stand alone version.
http://alphatracks.com/archives/134
The download link seems unavailable however but you may be able to find it if you search.
I have not used it for a while as I commmonly use Paintshop Pro Photo X2 for most post processing. This has its own tool (less automatic but works well.) This entails drawing a line (actually two lines as it ahs a kind of train track look to it) over the scratch and the tool substiutes pixels from surrounding areas. Its designed to handle longitudinal marks (even up to things like powerlines in a photo depening on the settings used) so works better than spot removal tools.
Edit: the download link here seems to work
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/photoshop/polaroid-dust-filter.htm
http://alphatracks.com/archives/134
The download link seems unavailable however but you may be able to find it if you search.
I have not used it for a while as I commmonly use Paintshop Pro Photo X2 for most post processing. This has its own tool (less automatic but works well.) This entails drawing a line (actually two lines as it ahs a kind of train track look to it) over the scratch and the tool substiutes pixels from surrounding areas. Its designed to handle longitudinal marks (even up to things like powerlines in a photo depening on the settings used) so works better than spot removal tools.
Edit: the download link here seems to work
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/photoshop/polaroid-dust-filter.htm
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charjohncarter
Veteran
Gads, thanks again for this link somehow I always lose this program (I've done 3-4 times). You know: new computer, accidental delete, etc. Yes, this one works, I remember that there is a box that either has to be turned off or on (for film) and you have as with all old software adjust the 3 sliders for max benefit. Luckily it is easy to do with this program. Thanks again, Peter (I've just got to remember your RFF name)!
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Beemermark
Veteran
In the old days (with an enlarger) we used to use nose grease. Seriously. Rub your finger on your nose, get a little grease, and fill the scratch.
Don't know if it works with scanners.
Don't know if it works with scanners.
Mcary
Well-known
Hello everyone.
FYI, I tried using the spot removal tool in Lightroom 3, but I'm not happy with the result, at least I am unable to do it better using LR3.
* link: A small section of an image [at 100%].
Thanks
I've found that when trying to clean up scratches using the LR spot removal tools its better to use a series of smaller over lapping circles instead of trying to do it with a single large circle. Also I've found that 99% of the time the healing setting does much better job then the clone setting. Also if area being cleaned up doesn't match the surrounding area try adjusting selecting a different sampling area.
ashfaque
Learning
Thanks
Thanks
Thank you all for your recommendations.
Beemermark: 'nose oil' is the last thing I expected! I'll try it for the next roll. I don't want to scan them again.
Peter: it did the job pretty well. A section fo the scratch was still there as I didn't use the filter aggressively. The rest was removed using the spot remover (of LR3). Here is a B&W version.
I'm now happy with the output.
Thanks
Thank you all for your recommendations.
Beemermark: 'nose oil' is the last thing I expected! I'll try it for the next roll. I don't want to scan them again.
Peter: it did the job pretty well. A section fo the scratch was still there as I didn't use the filter aggressively. The rest was removed using the spot remover (of LR3). Here is a B&W version.
I'm now happy with the output.
brbo
Well-known
Btw, this horizontal line is not a scratch. It's a dead (stuck) pixel in the scanner's sensor.
ashfaque
Learning
I don't think that is the case for the unit I'm using - mainly because not all negatives have this problem.
brbo
Well-known
Well, I don't think it's possible to create a scratch that goes border to border at constant height and at exactly 1px width and that would cause the scanner to output the exact same hue for all pixels.
I would bet this is/was a scanner issue (calibration, stuck pixel) and not a scratch in a negative.
I would bet this is/was a scanner issue (calibration, stuck pixel) and not a scratch in a negative.
ashfaque
Learning
I know very little about scanners. Thing is I can't and shouldn't complain since I got it for free via my local Freegle (previously known as FreeCycle).