If your son wants the older lower-contrast look for street photography, the Canon 35/2.8 is worth considering. That and an external 35mm viewer, he's set. I keep one on a Black Leica III, works out well. It is small, reasonable cost, sharp-enough, and nice lower-contrast colors. Also good for black and white.
Canon 35/2.8 on the Canon P. Williamsburg. My version of Street Photography for an old world look.
(Above shot chosen to show the low-contrast. Note the area in the Shadows did not Clip)
More here with the Canon 35/2.8.
http://camwk.com/album.php?albumid=44
One shot, wide-open at F2.8
Canon 35/2.8 on the Canon P. Williamsburg. My version of Street Photography for an old world look.
(Above shot chosen to show the low-contrast. Note the area in the Shadows did not Clip)
More here with the Canon 35/2.8.
http://camwk.com/album.php?albumid=44
One shot, wide-open at F2.8
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JohnTF
Veteran
One nice thing about the CV 25mm SM is that it comes with a finder, and is a scale focus for speed, and as Roger says, a 50mm, there are certainly many nice vintage SM 50's, and I like the CV 50 as well.
I think the CV 25 might be at a good price as I think it is discontinued in SM?
The 25 with viewfinder and the 50 would be a nice combination. If you see a CV 50mm 1:1 viewfinder at a good price I would grab it as well.
Are you sure this is for your son? ;-)
At that price don't think you will not have options if you change your mind.
Regards, John
I think the CV 25 might be at a good price as I think it is discontinued in SM?
The 25 with viewfinder and the 50 would be a nice combination. If you see a CV 50mm 1:1 viewfinder at a good price I would grab it as well.
Are you sure this is for your son? ;-)
At that price don't think you will not have options if you change your mind.
Regards, John
chris00nj
Young Luddite
You'll have to let us know which lens you choose.
3 Olives
Established
Quick Question- if the front coating is worn does it effect the photo? I'm leaning towards the 50/2 Summitar.
FPjohn
Well-known
Hello:
Some coating blemishes have little effect except to lower price, others effect image quality.
yours
FPJ
Some coating blemishes have little effect except to lower price, others effect image quality.
yours
FPJ
JohnTF
Veteran
It should seriously affect the asking price. I think I committed myself to a box of cameras which should arrive shortly, and may have some excess to flog off, so if you are interested, PM me early next week? You can hit me while I suffer from buyer's remorse. Some will go to a young friend who "needs" more RFs, but it is a bit of a grab bag. ;-)
Regards, John
Regards, John
You will need a hood to prevent flare on most older lenses, and the worn coating increases the need. Filters and hoods are more difficult to find for the Summitar: it uses a recessed filter ring. It is a good lens. The collapsible Summicron in thread mount uses standard 39mm filters and accessories. It is a bit sharper, and usually not much more in the way of cost. It was available in Thread Mount and M-Mount, so you need to look at the correct version.
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
Try to find a "uncoated" version of the Summitar pre 1946 ~ in the 520xxx something series of serial numberS with a max apt of f12.5 ~ these are truly "old school" and they reflect that era in their look in color and black and white films........
Tom
Tom
3 Olives
Established
Thanks for the information.
3 Olives
Established
Tom,
He mostly shoots B&W. I'm going to threadjack my own thread. Do you have any film recommendations?
Drewus
Established
You can't go wrong with Ilford HP5 400 or FP4 125. Obviously depending on what kind of lighting conditions you'll be shooting in most of the time.
I find if I stick with HP5, I can't drop my aperture below 12.5 during day time shots, simply because the IIIc only goes up to 1/1000. This isn't so bad when I stick at hyperfocal range (zone focus) but if I want to take a portrait and drop the aperture to separate the subject from the background, I just can't do it.
Moving to FP4 fixes this problem, but then you have the opposite end of the scale for dark shots.
I find if I stick with HP5, I can't drop my aperture below 12.5 during day time shots, simply because the IIIc only goes up to 1/1000. This isn't so bad when I stick at hyperfocal range (zone focus) but if I want to take a portrait and drop the aperture to separate the subject from the background, I just can't do it.
Moving to FP4 fixes this problem, but then you have the opposite end of the scale for dark shots.
Drewus
Established
Forgot to ask, is he developing himself? If not then he should go for C41 film. A lot of photo labs don't support traditional B&W film anymore. Unless you seek out one that does.
Graybeard
Longtime IIIf User
I suggest going with a 50mm lens first. Part of the charm of a Barnack Leica is its small size. The bulk will increase with an auxiliary finder.
The small size of the collapsible Elmar f3.5 or an Industar 22 is nice but the faster speed of the Jupiter 8 or the Serenar are really handy.
The least expensive choice would be a Jupiter 8 - I'd prefer a black one. For more money, a Canon/Serenar 50mm/f1.8 is a really fine lens. There is little reason to ever replace the Canon/Serenar.
The small size of the collapsible Elmar f3.5 or an Industar 22 is nice but the faster speed of the Jupiter 8 or the Serenar are really handy.
The least expensive choice would be a Jupiter 8 - I'd prefer a black one. For more money, a Canon/Serenar 50mm/f1.8 is a really fine lens. There is little reason to ever replace the Canon/Serenar.
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Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
3 Olives
Established
We found out the hard way that you have to use C41 or find someone who still develops traditional B&W film.
We actually have a package coming from a very generous member of APUG.org that is pretty much everything but a few graduates, glass to press the negatives, and a dark room. It should be here tomorrow or Monday. We are sending him shipping cost and a beautiful NC Country Ham in exchange.
JohnTF
Veteran
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
The problem with the old lenses is flare and that means a hood which rather negates the ability to collapse the lens and put it in your pocket. I'd go for something like the Jupiter 8 and a "M" style hood or a plainer hood (the spun metal ones look "retro" to me). Don't forget that the Jupiter turns round as you focus.
The other problem with Elmars is that you have to be careful about bargains and dig deep into your pocket for a good one: or be very lucky. The Industars are nice and coated but again, need hoods for street work.
Stuffing cameras into pockets also means lens caps and, again, fiddling around with them is a PITA at times.
Just my 2d worth.
Regards, David
The problem with the old lenses is flare and that means a hood which rather negates the ability to collapse the lens and put it in your pocket. I'd go for something like the Jupiter 8 and a "M" style hood or a plainer hood (the spun metal ones look "retro" to me). Don't forget that the Jupiter turns round as you focus.
The other problem with Elmars is that you have to be careful about bargains and dig deep into your pocket for a good one: or be very lucky. The Industars are nice and coated but again, need hoods for street work.
Stuffing cameras into pockets also means lens caps and, again, fiddling around with them is a PITA at times.
Just my 2d worth.
Regards, David
3 Olives
Established
I don't know if I'll go with a Russian copy, but I'm not ruling it out. I hope someone can answer the following questions.
Does the turning of the lens on the Jupiter 8 cause problems or is it just a nuisance?
Is the Industar 22 comparable to the Jupiter8?
Are both easy to operate with a hood?
At the prices of these lenses I suppose I could buy both.
Thanks.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
As I raised the point I'd better answer it. Turning the lens to focus hasn't caused me any problems as I use a vented hood (probably Chinese - I forget). As it turns round you get the aperure scale moving as well but that appleis to any Leica with a collapsable lens as we/I don't always remember to click it tight with the scale in the same place. And the hood on an Elmar, Summar or Summitar gets in the way of the aperture setting; depending on the hood design. Nothing serious and part of the fun of elderly cameras.
I've found both FSU lens you mention to be good'uns and others (from that stable) to be OK. The problem is that buying over the internet means buying blind. So far I've been lucky with 7 FSU lenses and unluck with 2 of Leica's finest and very lucky with 6 Leica lenses.
OTOH, at least you can get and fix hoods on them. I've compact AF zooms (film and digital) that cry out for a hood but just won't take one.
Regards, David
3 Olives
Established
Thanks for the reply. If I buy FSU lenses it will be from Fedka.
Have you tried the Industar 50? If so, I'd appreciate your opinion.
Thanks again.